Hi Guys, I have hard steering, the car has a tube straight axle w/ a stock Ross box and before I go through the work to go from traditional to a cross steer and different steering box I'm going to have to change the spindles and install new kingpins. Speedway Motors makes a needle bearing kingpin setup w/ stainless steel king pins. pt# 910-24129 has anyone used these and will it make a difference in steering effort.
If all the parts are good, it should not steer hard. Are the load bearings under the axle? Are they free, or rusty? Have the king pin bushings frozen, or are they lubed and turn free? Do you have a frozen tie rod end? I would take it apart and find the bad part, then try it again.
Littleman, what is the best way to determine length for the best possible opporation? I would assume the ratio of the box plays a part in the equation. Is it just a trial and error deal or is there a basic formula to start with? Something I have wondered about. Thanks GV
Disconnect your drag link from the box, lift the front of the vehicle and move the wheels by hand. Also turn your steering wheel lock to lock. This should let you know if you've got binding anywhere in the system and where it is. If everything seems smooth, you know it's probably a geometry/ratio problem with your steering arms or box. Like Littleman said you can change the steering feel by using shorter or longer pitman and spindle arms. Using a shorter pitman arm will give you an easier turning wheel, but will decrease the ammount of drag link travel. For a manual box, a 6" pitman with a 6" steering arm is a good start...
Thanks everyone. All the parts are free. The real problem is the turn ratio. If you go from stop to stop it's less than 2 turns of the steering wheel. I was hoping that the Speedway stuff would make it easier and I would not have to change the box. You can look at the new king pin kit at Speedway Motors.com
RE: Hard steering straight axle. If every thing else check's out ok check your caster angle. To mutch positive caster will increase steering effort. Don't back it off to mutch though as negitive caster will have you wondering all over the road! I would suggest 1&1/2 to 2% will give you good steering wheel return & not too much steering effort. good luck. Rocket Ride.
without knowing what kind of ross box you have it's kinda hard to guess the ratio, most cars are around 15to20-1 but the race/sprint stuff is around 8-1 check out some of the sprint car suppliers as they have a steering reduced that you can splice into your column, it bassicly makes it 1/2 as hard to steer because you end up with a 16-1 ratio at the wheel instead of an 8-1. you could also shorten the pitman or lengthen the steering arm.
This may be a dumb comment, but make sure the ackerman geometry is correct. You don't want your outside tire turning sharper than the inside tire. Might be something to look at if you flipped the steering knuckles for clearance, etc.
Hi Justin, The Ross box is the 41 willys factory box. I'm going to order the bearing type kingpins and replace the old ones. If anyone cares I'll keep the progress posted but won't have any driving results till all this f'ng white stuff leaves and it drys out.
BTW that ROSS box is likely at least part of your problem. IF it's the one I am thinking about - it is a ineffecient design. IMHO you'd be better off with a recirculating ball type of steering box.
I think $220 is a lot to spend on new kingpins without first diagnosing the issue. There are a lot of good suggestions here and the kingpins would be my last choice without throwing a jack under that car and checking for binding at least. And welcome from DeKalb.
Whoa, whoa, before you go dropping 200 bucks on king pins you better figure out whats going on first. You have given a bunch of suggestions to help you carefully figure out what is causing the hard steering. The first is to determine what is causing the steering to be hard and what is "Hard". The first step that was suggested was to check to make sure the hard steering was not due to lack of lubrication of the king pins.Ol Don and T-birdesq gave you the correct procedure. It amazing what a little grease will due. The next step is to properly inflate the tires and check the caster. Most beam cars run around 5-7*+/-. What do you have? Thrown in with this is the tire/ rim offset that you are using, if you have excessive offset rims this increases the load and creates a harder steering feel when turning especially at slow speed.. Two turns of the wheel is not out of line but you can check the ratio of your box easily with a protractor. Set the steering wheel straight ahead. With a felt marker, mark a line on the steering arm nut over to the steering box and continue that line on to the box casting. Turn the steering wheel one revolution. Take your protractor and place the zero lining up with the line on the steering arm nut, reference the line on the steering box to the degree scale on the protractor. It will read "X" degrees, divide this reading into 360 and it will give you the ratio of the box. Example one turn + 36* change, divide into 360= 10 or 10 to 1 box ratio. If you want an easier steer you may have to change box design. Anyway just send me the $200.00 because just changing king pins probably wont solve the problem.
On an old Anglia gasser i had with a ross box , i shortned the pitman arm about 3/4 of an inch , it really helped that car out.
The bearing type kingpin kit is only for longevity, wont move any smoother than bushings if clearanced and greased properly. Dont waste your time unless you dont know condition of present kingpins/bushings. I run a tube axle on mine and run 4.5 degrees caster. Steers and turns nicely. Using stock box on 55 Chevy. Good luck.
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