so i'm taking an evening body shop cl***,and last night we worked with ******* files for the 1st time. the only thing i didn't like was that the "handle" was just more file,and i was thinking i'd rather have a piece of small diameter tube or pipe,maybe with some grip tape or something on there for a better grip. another thing,the part i'm working on in cl*** is a ****py foreign car fender,would a co****r file work better on vintage tin? and yes,i did a search,so spare me
Buy a good file, like from martin .I've had my files for about 40 years and still as good as new . You will have to tape up one side ,if you don't your hand will know how sharp the file is. The old guys i learned the trade from let you find out stuff like that the hard way.
Hey, You can also slide a piece of old rubber hose over the end of a file *******. I'm kinda a fan of the smooth surface *******s, they don't beat up the surface as badly as the files. That's a plus if you- 're going to metal finish the panel. The file *******s do shrink a flat/low crowned panel, but there are other ways to shrink badly stretched metal faster. S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
OK, I give up. Can someone post a picture of a ******* and explain how/ why it works? I've never seen one used.
or you could just wear a freakin glove... and I've used it on a "****py foreign car" and "vintage tin"...works fine for both, just remember to not be a pansy with it(light slaps)
that video is pretty awsome eventhough i had to join metalmeet to see it....now i can't wait till i get to this part of my project!!
OK,i'm just gonna make a couple of ******* files,i already cut the pieces today,and i'll weld'em together in the morning. i gotta make a smooth ******* too,good thing there's a lot of s**** metal around here thanks everybody!
I find worn out flat files at flea markets and garage sales. I have made many over the years. I heat the middle of the files to make a lazy S shape. One end is the handle the other I slap with. Once and a while one will break....I just make more. The file teeth holds the metal from moving outward while you shape the metal. The teeth sink a little deeper on the old tin than it does on the late model metal. Try a heavy body s**** if you want a smooth *******. Great tool for the body guy who must get work out quickly. Fast tool if your going to frost it anyway, maybe not so good for the metal finishing perfectionist. Steve
The last issue of Ol Skool or CK Deluxe (at work and cant remember) had a good article on making ******* files.
Go to your local bicycle shop. They will have a large ***ortment of the big soft bmx bicycle handle bar grips. They cost a few bucks each, but our local shop will even sell them one at a time. Even a pair is only about 10 bucks or so. They will stretch slightly to slide over the handle end of your file ( *******), or whatever tool you choose to use. I have made a few *******s from leaf springs as well, and welded a bicycle handle bar to it for a handle. The bicycle handle grips are a really nice addition to a bicycle handle bar for a *******. Its like they are made for each other. Or, you could just wait until dark and sneak next door and steal the grips off your neighbour's kid's bike.
My ******* file handle is wrapped with 40 year old duct tape. Of course the file and tape was new when I wrapped it. Bought it in 1976 while going to body shop school. Never thought about it till now but it's been in my tool box that long and I use it all the time, still works like the day I bought it. No idea who made it, probably Martin but I guess I got my money's worth out of it. Still using my Martin dollies I bought back then as well. Lifetime tools, what a concept.
I made my own. Surplus tool store sells files for a few bucks, I got one with the handle tang broken off for 2 dollars. Put a nice bend in it and done. Let it cool slowly, or in a bucket of sand, files are brittle to start with, if you quench it itll snap in no time
The Jalopy Journal
