got my traingulated 4 link kit in, its universal and I wanted some pointers, so i dont over look anything, thanks
its in a 41 chevy sedan, its gonna be laying frame, its gonna need to be c notched, I c notched my 53 chevy, bagged it and chopped it but never done a 4 link, my 53 chevy is just bagged with the leafs. the lower rods need to be parallel to the ground and frame right? how short can the top ones be? once i get the lower ones in the top can go any where that wont bind?
The problems with triangular 4 bars : Tuff to weld mounts on top of GM cast housings, Ford 9" works better..... Need clearance on top of rear which can be a problem with lowered cars , it might hit the floorpan especially on air bags when deflated. Narrow frames are a little challenging. I'd rather do a parallel 4 bar with panard. But thats my opinion, I'm sure others will disagree.......
I was going to do 4 link but went with a wishbone on top setup. Way easier han figuring out mounting angles and height with the offset housing on my 9 inch. There's two lower arms mounted outside the frame on the bottom.
what about the lenght of the rods? as long as they dont bind up and will allow for propper bag travel ill be good ......? right?
with a triagulated 4 link make sure your rear driveshaft loop is w-i-d-e. You would be suprised by how much the drive shaft will swing during normal driving conditions, such as getting in and out of a moderately steep driveway. Dont ask me how I know this.
Put a triangulated four bar on the wifes 40 pickup last winter, I set all bars parrallel to ground at ride height, unless you get crazy shortening bars, you should be ok, if everything moves freely. I'll post a couple of pics.
Can you just weld the tabs on the axle tubes on a GM housing? I'm thinking about 4 linking my GM rearend and seem to have seen pics of it done that way.