Who out there makes the best master rebuild kit for the money and how hard is it really to rebuild them? I watched a guy take one apart into a bunch of pieces, it looks overwhelming?
It's not really that difficult. I'm ***uming this is your first time, so what I would recommend is get a nice large work surface, build (or buy) a jig to hold the transmission case, and as you pull pieces out, put them in the order that your removed them. Also, if you have a digital camera, take pictures. As far as rebuild kits, http://www.eatmyshift.com/ has some quality kits. So I've heard, I have no personal experiance with them. Good luck! After you do a few, you can dis***emble and re-***emble them blindfolded!
napa sells quality parts for rebuild. you need a seal installer tool and a few other special tools. their are a handful of good manuals and video's you can use for your rebuild.
It's not rocket science, especially on a TH-350. Get a book like the ATSG rebuild manual, a good Chevy shop manual that covers it, or even a Chilton's....keep everything clean...as mentioned, pictures help...soak the clutches for 30 minutes at the minimum...lube all the rings, seals, steels, & so forth. It may look overwhelming, but actually once you are doing it, common sense takes over & everything is understandable. I would strongly suggest getting a new converter (they are cheap for a TH-350), and flushing out the cooler lines & cooler itself. I see a lot of guys lose a trans, rebuild it, and then use the old converter, complete with four quarts of metal shavings, clutch dust, and maybe a few other things. A lot of times, the bushings are still OK, but check the clearances & visually inspect everything....now's the time to fix a sloppy/worn bushing, while it's apart. If your pan does not have a drain plug, this is the time to install one. If you plan on using a shift kit of some type, I think it's best to rebuild the trans first, reinstall it, and verify that everything is good...THEN install the shift kit. Others might argue this, but I think it's better this way for a beginner. Also, it verifies that you actually CHANGE the fluid after the rebuild, ensuring that any stray pieces of lint, etc. are removed.
Easy to build as said,buy bushing drivers fom trans tool,c-clamps for spring compression,helps to have a few parts ******s for different thicknesses of pressure plates,transtar ****** kits from northern auto seem to be a good deal.
Yep...meant to mention the Transtar/Northern Auto thing, I have bought a couple from them for daily drivers, they are fine for that. Thanks for the tip...
Yes this will be my first try at this. Thanks for all the suggestions. What do you generally use to clean the parts up? ATF? I will be using a new converter. This is going behind a slightly built 406 SBC and in to my 1950 F1. JD
I have used NAPA rebuild kits on a few trannies. They work very well for mild to moderate street cars. I got turned on to NAPA kits after watching a bunch of full sized 11 sec street cars use them. Most of the issues for these mild/moderate cars are not the lining materials etc, more therest of the system, the valve body, ac***ulators, coolers etc. I agree that an inexpensive convertor should be installed when doing the rebuild. I use the Cheap ($100) B&M convertors for the mild motors, for a hundred bucks you pick up a few rpm and have a fresh convertor-good deal. I also use their $25 shift kits. I have never waited to install one until after driving the rebult trans but it makes plenty of sense-with the fluid change and all.
go on ebay ... ct powertrain... Add a hard sprag race ... have the direct piston cut to add extra clutch.... Borg/warner clutches u should be fine ...
And worse case you will load us up a pic and ask a question and someone will try to help out with info.
i have been told they are easy to work on........but ,i always take them to someone who knows what they are doing
They aren't bad to work on if you are just redoing one that is a bit tired. When one is fried or having other problems to begin with it might better to let someone with experience handle it. The worse problem is usually getting the clutch seals back in an together with out nicking or cutting a seal lip. There are several good manuals around and there is at least one step by step instructon video out.
You can do anything you put your mind to. Buy some good books and do a lot of reading first. To clean the parts all you need is mineral spirits. Use a blow gun to remove any liquids, a rag will leave lint and find its way into the valve body and ruin your rebuild. You will need to make two slidehammer pullers to get the front pump out, I made mine out of 3/8 threaded rod. You can buy some of the other special tools on ebay fairly cheap. It is not hard at all.
ATSG has a great book that will help you out greatly. Read up on airchecking during final ***embly. This will let you know if you have any leaks. Torque is big on the valve body. Check for shift checks with Gil Younger, none better! Good Luck!