WAAAAAAAAAAAAA...... I broke the glass

ok, gl*** install on the 54 dodge truck Saturday.
we started with the 2 panels of front gl***, worked it all into the new rubber and then placed it up on the truck and it started working in fine and pulling the small wire we had in the rubber. It ended up not going in at all, it appears the gl*** panels were crudely cut way back in the day and they were to small. There was no way we could make them even remotely begin to fit, pull, stretch, slide em in the rubber frames, still almost 1/4" short to the frame. That explains why the PO had approx. 4 tubes of black silicone on it and it still leaked. Anyways, I need new panels for the front windsheild.
ok, on the the rear flat center gl*** next, work the rubber on it, set it in place, push hither and yonder and start to work it in and POP! I broke the gl*** in bunches of pieces.
****!, ok, on to one of the curved corner pieces...work the rubber on it, whew, takes forever, then wonder how the hell it is supposed to go in. Scratch heads some more and try to fit it in, start working it and pushing and ****! tear the rubber seal, well I was inside and the seal was being pulled from the outside and it got hugely mangled and I said screw it. now I have to buy front panels, one rear panel and new side seals for the curved gl***.
end result = nothing got done but damage = really bad day on the 54 progress.

okies, Now for the million dolla' question.
can anybody recommend a shop in the S/E Houston area that would be able to install this gl*** and hopefully w/o breakage??

signed,
busted bubble

 

I'm with you, time for someone else to install the gl***. I'd ask around and start calling thru the yellow pages

 

Come on guys, there has to be a HAMBer that knows a trusty gl*** guy in the Houston area!!

 

Good decision, when it stops being fun its time to let a pro do it. I feel that way about exhaust systems.
Ron

 

yup, kinda bummed me out, but not gonna let it squash me. I have to much other **** to worry with getting right before the LR

still hoping someone knows someone who is old car gl*** savy

 

I hate gl***.

 

id just look for a well established old shop,and talk to the old timer that works there.also let them cut your new peices. i hate gl*** too

 

ooops...lol...I boght all brand new gl*** for my 51 and my nephew dropped it all on the floor....every piece broke....so I gotta buy all new gl*** again...I cant be pissed at him...he's only a kid and I should have put it out of reach....

 

I hate gl*** too ! I can make metal do anthing I want .
all I seem to be able to do with gl*** is break it ?

 

Going through the same thing here, have not broke gl*** yet.
But getting good at ripping new seals ... DoH
Jdee

 

^^ yup, I ordered another set of corner seals today .
yer' car looks nice

 

Lubricate the rubber with kerosene or prep sol use plastic tools to slide gl*** into the rubber center glsss in opening start at bottom of window ,when the seal is completely over bottom flange push down on gl*** to bottom out seal then finish pulling in cord equal on each side .Do not over tighen screws on inside mldg .

 

I always lose when I argue with gl***.

 

What are you using inside the rubber to pull the to pull it over the lip? I always use some cord that resembles lawn mower starting rope, and lube it up with dishwashing soap (easier to clean up than petroleum based lube). Guess you could try some astro-glide...

Brian

 

Window blind cord about 1/8" the kerosene makes the rubber real slippery and it drys up in about 5 min with out any residue.That's the way i was taugh in the 60's. Also check flange for bent edges and trash in side rubber seal.

 

Tim,
sorry to hear bout your dilema, there is an outfit out here by my place that can hook you up, I cannot personally recomend them but I know a few people that have used them with good results, give them a call and feel them out, if you feel this is the way your going to go I can probally help you out with getting it up here on the car hauler, just let me know, on a side note, good thing the curved gl*** is still good.

Porter Gl*** & Mirror Inc
21262 US Highway 59 N
Porter, TX
Phone: (281) 354-5333

 

i always use a piece of 16 or 18 gage electrical wire with soapy water in a squirt bottle

 

I worked in an autogl*** shop when I was in highschool. I was always tinkering with VW's and got good at the rear gl***. My boss moved me onto all the 50's-60's vehicles and I seemed to have good luck. I think it's because I'm patient. We used soapy water and cord.

One of my most memorable was re-installing the OEM rear gl*** into a Hemi Cuda after it had been restored. My boss didn't even want to be around me and my friend as we installed it. I was actually nervous on that one.

It's strange but the only auto gl*** I ever broke was on a CJ7 and I was trying to install Wrangler gl*** into it... that doesn't work... one is urethaned the other is gasket and the size differs slightly. However, when it comes to residential gl***... I've broken more than my share.

Most auto-gl*** shops can cut you new gl*** for the front, inexpensively. For those with experience with contoured gl*** your Dodge shouldn't be a problem. I believe you can do it even after your experience. It just takes time. You may need to pull it out and reset yourself. Just be patient. You'll be so satisfied in the long run. or you could just fork over the $ to a qualified guy and be done with it.

 

Don Woode
281/701-4005

 

i wish my dad and i were near you i'd go get him and come over and put your gl*** in for you. he is a wiz at doing gl***, and if he ever gets impatient thats when i step in. between the both of us we have only busted one piece of gl*** in the last 20 years or so and thats because i dropped the damn thing out of the rubber when i was handing it to him (and i will never live that one down) and i cant even begin to count how many cars we put gl*** in. the only thing i can say is be very patient and use the heal of your hand to bump the gl*** and rubber as you install. this helps seat it and frees up some real estate in the rubber as you go.

 

This is what we did, used the wire and I dunno if I like that.
it seemed to catch on the metal seam and the plastic on the wire dug in.

 

Thanks red dude, I'll call em up.
thanks for the haul offer, I appreciate it.

 

Dude - that's why I started this thread:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243814

~Jason

 

Jack's Gl*** on Kuykendahl just north of 1960. He's done a bunch of hot rodders up here.

 

I have heard that the guy Jimmy something who used to own Southern Gl*** in Pasadena will still do some cars even though he has retired. He has done a lot of the gl*** around here. PM me and I'll see if I can't find him.

 

first off the Dodge uses an H type gasket that goes on the pinch weld first then you work the gl*** into the rubber then install a loc-strip last. the gl*** should be 1/4 inch smaller than the opening all the way around.
any gasket that is an S type can be roped in. I reccomend at least 3/16 nylon rope. I usually use a worn 1/4 nylon. anything smaller will cut the rubber. and always pull the rope straight towards the center of the gl***
looking at the open end of the rubber it will look like an H (the gl***s will be smaller than the opening) or a sideways S the gl*** will be larger than the opening)

 

That is the way to do it. I have always used foamy gl*** cleaner for lube.

 

I broke the first piece of gl*** in my convert. I had the V-**** a little too tight.

Couple of "tips"
1. I used my wifes foaming hand cleaner pump from the kitchen....works really well.

2. I didn't have any plastic picks or tools at the time but I did manage to steel the wifes plastic orange peeler thingy. It worked really good to pull on the rubber seal along with the cord.

3. I have heard that if you seal the V-**** with normal black or clear silicone it will eat into the plastic in the safety gl*** over time giving you those ugly bubbles in the gl***. The stuff to use is silicone sealer from for Aquariums sold at the pet store. It flows really nice too.

 

I find that air bubbles are from cutting the gl***. alcohol eats lamination, also stretching the lamination to cut it. I almost always use the factory edge for v-****s. (factory cuts the gl*** to size then laminates it. no stress no bubbles)

 

i watched the guy install my front windsheild this past weekend. i don`t want any part of that ****. money well spent.