Short version: thought the starter had a heat soak problem, because, well, it seemed like a heat soak problem. Crawled under there, and discovered the yellow wire was almost off the solenoid, because the little 11/32 nut backed off. That could account for the hard-starting. This went on for a long while before I found it. I noticed one time, when I thought it might be a loose negative battery cable, that the cable was getting very warm when I tried to keep starting it--like it was drawing a lot of current through it, as happens with a bad connection somewhere. At the same time, the positive post on the battery started leaking, and the acid "pickled" the positive battery cable end. A multi-meter showed I had no continuity through the discolored surface of the cable's end, but if I s****ed through the discoloration, I had continuity. (imagine the lead being "anodized"--that's what I had) I replaced the battery cable, and had the starter checked--it came back as all good. The problem: When I turn the ignition to the "start" position, absolutely nothing happens. The truck will roll-start with the ignition in the "run" position and popping the clutch. I pulled out the switch, and I have continuity through all the positions (except "off" of course). I have 12 volts going through the main leads from the ignition switch, through the firewall, to the starter. (heavy gauge red and purple wires). I have continuity through all the wires in the harness (as far as I can tell). It's a new wiring harness, with a new switch. With the ignition switch in the "Run" position, I have 12 volts in the red and purple wires going to the solenoid (as checked at the connector under the dash). When I turn the ignition switch to the "Start" position, the wires go dead. My latest thought is that I have a dead short in the ignition switch, possibly caused by putting too much load through it trying to start the truck with the wire just hanging on the solenoid. Am I on the right track, do I need to do more testing, or push the truck in the lake? (I haven't tested across the solenoid contacts with the ignition in the "Start" position yet, due to no helpers) I'd appreciate any help. Even help pushing it off the cliff at this point! -Brad
Do you have the switch in the column or the dash? If it's in the column maybe it's out of adjustment.
Brad, I think you have a bad connection...and when you're turning the ignition switch to the 'start' position, you're dropping all your voltage across the bad connection. Trace the red and purple wires back from the solenoid, clean all the connections (is there a fuse there) and try it again.
Sounds like you may have the start wire switched around and maybe on the wrong terminal on the starter. The start terminal(if it's GM) is the one closest to the engine with a "s" marking it. If the wire goes dead when you turn the switch to start it tells me you are feeding it off a ignition or accesory wire on the outside, and if there is power there in the run position it should be cranking over when you turn the switch to run. Like Da Tinman said we need to know what you have.
I don't know what engine you have, but I would consider checking the relay and solenoid if the ignition switch checks out.
Got a bad switch from Ron Francis, when you turned to the start pos it would sometimes drop the ignition voltage to the coil. It would crank but not fire. Sometimes after cranking a while with no start I would let off and it would start. Took a while to figure that one out.You could have the same but dropping the crank voltage.
There is some voltage loss somewhere. I'd check for frayed wires on the group from the switch all the way to the starter. Sounds like you may have a minor grounding out issue.
on my old truck i have a power wire that comes off thee voltage reg to the pos. batt terminal ,if it has a week connection it wont do anything when you hit the key but draw power.. whats the car ? what the engine?
New wiring harness, with at least 10,000 miles on it. new engine, and starter, with at least 5,000 miles, including a 1,500 mile round trip to Florida last weekend. I put the wiring harness in it some time last year, and I've put over 20,000 on the truck in two years. Engine went in after Bonneville, but the truck was down from Thanksgiving to Feb.1. HEI ignition that came with the truck. There weren't any other electrical or mechanical changes, other than that solenoid wire backing off, which I'm sure caused the hard start problems. I didn't do any work on anything, so there aren't any connections that I removed and put on wrong. -Brad
Since you are sure the starter is good, (I like to run a wire from the starter up to the battery so I can always crank my older cars from under the hood), it sure sounds like you are not gettin fire either to the ignition or from the ignition switch to the starter. From reading your answers to other people's questions, I must say I'm shocked at your inability to solve this rather simple problem, Brad. I expected better from you . (Don't ask me why none of my **** works). Good luck-you know it will be something simple. Did you hit starter with a hammer?
byp*** the switch with a set up on the starter. one wire to the solenoid and one the pos starter term. a push ****on switch like you would use to set valves. this will isolate the ign sw. i like the suggestion that you may have the wires switched on the starter.
You say the starter checked out as good but how about the solenoid? If it is doing nothing it maybe just as simple as replacing a faulty solenoid on the starter. Update info: After re-reading your original post, I am more convinced it is a dead solenoid. If the vehicle will roll start with the switch on I would say the wiring is good. If you are getting a voltage or resistance reading on the start postion of the switch and you have the start wire hooked to the the S lug on the solenoid ( that would be on the engine block side) then it has to be a dead soleniod. I had this exact issue three years ago with my truck. Solenoid was the culprit.
Thanks guys...I'm going to attack it again tonight. Yes, I have hit the solenoid with a hammer! Hoped it might be sticking or hanging up. after the first half dozen whacks, the rest were just to vent frustration. At the parts house, they put the starter into a cabinet, hooked leads to the solenoid, closed the lid and ran through the tests. The little gear popped out and spun like a blender on "Liquify," so I ***umed the solenoid was good. Bad solenoid was my first thought. I'll make a bump starter tonight...or just jump the solenoid with a screw driver. If the solenoid spins, it's the ignition switch. If it doesn't spin, it's the solenoid, and the parts monkey at the chain autoparts store gets a shot to the balls for my trouble. -Brad
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