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Y-block/t-5 adaptor plate

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fousek, Feb 17, 2008.

  1. Fousek
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 13

    Fousek
    Member

    Has anyone put a t-5 behind a Y-block or a 223 inline six? How staight forward is the adaptor? What else needs to be done to make everything work?
     
  2. 59 brook
    Joined: Jun 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,016

    59 brook
    Member

    i've got the adapter and plenty of parts. what do you need?
     
  3. C.H.U.D
    Joined: Mar 15, 2007
    Posts: 8

    C.H.U.D
    Member

    how much you want for the the adapter?
     
  4. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Is your bellhousing steel or cast iron?

    If steel, you might be able to adapt it pretty easily...
     
  5. Fousek
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 13

    Fousek
    Member

    I have just started to think seriously about putting a t-5 behind my 223. Information about the install would be awesome. Right now I don't have any parts, so I would be interested in an adaptor, a t-5, and maybe bellhousing. Other then these parts, what else will I need. Any estamations on how much its goning to cost me would also be great.

    I think that my bellhousing is cast.
     
  6. 59 brook
    Joined: Jun 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,016

    59 brook
    Member

    cost me around $250 for the kit would like to get around $175 kit is brand new in the box complete with instructions and everything else it came with sorry no t-5 for sale but i do have a bellhousing from a y-block and a 6 cyl bellhousing also. in addition i have a few working 3 speeds out of 59's and an automatic also
     
  7. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,494

    TERPU
    Member

    I made my own. If you can find a cast iron bell you have what you need.
    Acetylene torch set-up, brazing rod, gas barbeque, patience

    1-Find some 1-1/2 round stock and bore a hole in it for a 1/2 inch thread.
    2-The bottom holes on the bell line up with a Mustang T-5 so your in like flinn there.
    3-Take the front bearing retainer off and turn it down to match the centering hole in the bellhousing -Do this first and mount the trans on the bell.
    4-Then take a centering punch, the type that fits the holes perfect and mark the top ones.
    5- Take the 1-1/2 round stock and cut it to fit the spot on the bellhousing. I also had to grind a nice round spot in the bell to accept this. It's a trial fit piece so be patient.
    6- Find the right thickness shim or washer for the right side hole and set it aside.
    7-place the washer and the round stock in the exact position you need and clamp it securely so it won't move.

    Now here is where it gets fun-put the whole thing in your gas barbeque and wait until it gets to 500 degrees or as hot as you can get it. It took mine about 10-minutes and I let it sit in there for over an hour to bring the core temperature up.

    Leave the whole mess in the bbq and braze the washer and the round stock to the bell, really make sure it sticks. Your br*** should flow like water if you are doing it right.

    Let it cool slowly and at its own rate- DO NOT USE WATER OR AIR OR ANYTHING ELSE. I left mine in overnight.


    Now for the Ford T/O bearing.

    Find a piece of heavy wall tubing which has the correct OD for the ID of the T/O you are using and is slightly smaller ID than the bearing retainer. You do this so you can slide the T/O on the pipe and use their hardened finish from the factory on the pipe.

    Take the front bearing retainer off and emery cloth it clean and true. This is going to pressure fit into the pipe when you are all done, but not yet.

    Machine the inside of the pipe to match the clean snout on the bearing retainer, you want to be damn near exact here so take your time and measure a whole bunch.

    Once you are there freeze the snout/retainer and leave the pipe in the sun. Once you are happy with the temperatures put some good lock-***e on the snout and in the pipe and press them gently together. They will never come apart so don't stop halfway through or you will be buying new parts and starting over.

    I'm not the original person to do this I stole these processes from several others.

    Now mount it all together using the Mustang clutch and go drive it.

    PS don't forget to change your shifter to something traditional and acceptable.



    Good luck,
    Tim
     
  8. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Do they make a steel bellhousing for the Y-block?

    If so, it'd be easier than BBQ-ing your cast iron one! ;)
     
  9. Fousek
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 13

    Fousek
    Member

    Thanks fore the info.
    Do you have to use the Mustang clutch or can I use the clutch off of the stock 3-speed? Is the mustang clutch mechanical or hydraulic? For my '59, will I have to move my rear transmition mount?
     
  10. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    You need a clutch disk to match the input splines of the transmission & a diameter to match your pressure plate.

    How you actuate it, hydraulically or mechanically, is entirely up to you...

    Can't help you with the third question...
     
  11. Fousek
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 13

    Fousek
    Member

    Well.... that pertty much answers all of my question... for now. Unless any body wants to donate a t-5?
     

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