Master Cylinder- Mustang vs. Corvette type?

I spent all night going through the Master Cylinder threads. My eyes STILL hurt this morning! Never seen so many people with so many different comments and somewhat inconsistant responses to various questions related to master cylinders. WOW!

What I did learn is that when it comes to dual, tandom type master cylinders '67-??, 1" bore Mustang type and ??-'82, 1" bore Corvette type master cylinders seem to be the bee's knees for manual, four-wheel drum setups with a 6:1 pedal ratio.

My application... '31 Model A, Lincoln style (MT bendix type) front brakes and 9-inch Ford late model brakes out back (11" I believe). The M/C will be located in the cowl area with my own hanging pedal setup to work around the cowl steering.

* What is the exact year range for these two M/C's?
* Anyone know the stroke on either of these M/C's?
* So is there a reason I should choose one over the other? They both seem to be about the same price and appear to be the same size physically with just a different mounting pattern.
* Who's selling a good NEW master cylinder? Any HAMB Alliance vendors out there selling these?? Would rather spend my money right here at home on the HAMB if that's possible

 

Well, i've got the '67 mustang MC in my ranchero, and it seems to work fine....

Probably not what you were looking for I know, but with an absence of other information, I would use this MC again.

 

just do it the easy way..strap some large wood blocks to the bottom of your shoes and cut a hole in the floor..flinstone style. that way you dont have to worry about a master cylinder at all..

 

NO! That's still good info! Thank you!

 

I have no feet left from doing that! My 2x4 shoes caught on fire, burned my feet to RUBBLES (Barney Rubbles that is). Go back to the garage and work on your trump Bean! HAHA!

 

67 Tang was good for me, too.

Rich

 

4-wheel drum?

 

Just found this listing for Mustang master cylinders and what it's interchangable with as well as a great price.

http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=1986818

Also sold at Summit for $50 and some change:

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...250070&N=700+4294922533+1004+115&autoview=sku

 

have a 76 vette cylinder under the 46. Original application is 4wheel disc, non power. MII calipers & stock ford brakes in the rear. Use the the corect residual valves & a valve to adjust the back brakes, it works great, truck just squats & stopf. No dive, no drama

 

I use 72 maverick,, probably the same as mustang/ranch/whatever. There are several m/c's that will do the job, the key point I make is to make sure its one that is readily available. If it goes out you want the one that is sitting on the box store shelf.

 

I used a late 60's chevelle master on my car. They had 2 different if i remember right. 4 wheel drum power and non-power. Nice small unit.

 

Da Tinmans got a good point about availablity.

Cost could enter into it as well.
My guess is the FoMoCo M/C is a lot cheaper.
Lotsa Fords, not many Vettes.

You can get the FoMoCo outlets on either side as well.

Both of my roadsters 7/8" bore M/C outlets - keep in mind oriented backwards from a stock install M/C - are Torino which point toward the left side frame and Mustang which point toward the driveshaft.

About 68-70 era and a lot of the Fords use this same M/C.

Also available in 15/16" (I'm told) and 1" (I've seen).

 

I'd use the Mustang non-power non-disc brake M/cyl. You don't need to buy extra parts to make it work. It has the residual valves built in. They have stood the test of time.

For GM parts disc/drum applications I use the 71 Camaro M/cyl. Same deal...no extra parts required.

It's only my theory but I believe that the brake kit people use the Corvette M/cyl so that they only have to stock one M/cyl. They just sell you the extra parts to make it work for the different applications. At extra cost I might add. JMO

 

Try givin these guys a call. Pat @ ex. 207 was helpful and seemed very knowledgeable. http://www.mpbrakes.com/index.cfm

 

I read about 1/2 ton Chev pickup in 60's? with drums front and rear that had a master
cylinder that worked good. If you want more info on this let me know and I will try to
find #'s etc. Maybe some else will have this info.

 

Anyone know the stroke of the 1" manual Mustang M/C?

YES! Excellent point on using an off the shelf product that can be obtained from any parts store if there is a problem.

I talked to a HAMBer earlier who's using a '67 Mustang M/C (Drums/Drum application) he bought it from AutoZone for $15!! WOW! I'm ***uming that's a rebuilt unit. I'm leaning towards NEW vs. rebuilt units. Is that a safe bet?

 

I run a 68 Chev C-10 manual drum mastercylinder on the 48.
54 Chev car drums and backing plates on the front and Nova drums on the rear. We had to build a bracket to mount it to the original mc mount under the floor and build a push rod for it.

 

The dual mustang is almost the same as the chey of the same era. If you need it I'll send you the mustang A1 number. I'm using a reman , no prob. in two years.

****

 

Thanks ****! I'm thinking of running down to AutoZone and picking up a remanned just to have it.

something else I thought of. Where do I get pushrods for the Mustang M/C?

 

Should be in the box with the new M/C,, new retaining clip and the boot should be in there too!

 

1967 Olds 88 master for drum-drum cars. $30 shippped to my door from rockauto.com. They do drop-shipping, so it came like the next day...

 

77 Maverick manual disk/drum MC is 15/16

Is there really a noticeable difference between 15/16" and 1" bores?

 

Ask fergenboysinc for advice. They have a method of fixing brakes!! Something to do with a louder horn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

A couple of pics that may help.
A semi-self contained brake pedal return spring.
Works well, been running a similar one on the 32 for 14 years.

You'll have to spread the end of the spring so it goes over the M/C mouth.

Note that the brake pushrod for the brake pedal has a Heim.
You'll have to cut the stock end off and run some 3/8" NF threads.






I wouldn't sweat the rebuild as long as it's done in the US or other country that does good work as compared to the Chinese ****-****-junk we get at some places.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ya know, when the revolution comes, the politicians won't be the first ones dragged out into the street and shot.
It'll be the GD CEO's who've sold this country down the river....

 

So it looks like I'm going to shoot for a 67 to 72 Mustang M/C. They seem to be very common and very cheap. I'm going to run the 1".

So now, let me updated the questions a bit...

What is the stroke of a 1" mustang M/C?
Do any of our trusty HAMB alliance vendors stock this? No big deal if no, but would like to support the alliance when possible.

EDIT: Thanks C9! YOu posted the same time I did! HAHA!

 

WOW! Does it really have about 2-inches of travel???? That would mean with a 6:1 ratio I'm going to have to push the pedal 12-inches!!! GOOD LORD that's a lot of pedal travel!!! Someone please tell me it's closer to 1-1/2" or less.

 

Well, I never measured the travel, but... mine don't move for **** when I jump on the brakes.

 

Once it full and bled out you wont use the full stroke, the pedal in the shoebox has less then 3" of travel.

Glad your asking questions,, I've been stuck here waiting on parts that were supposed to be here by 10, its 2:30 and still no sign.

 

The dual outlet Corvette master cylinder that's used by just about all of the hot rod suppliers is for a '68 Corvette w/o power brakes. It's available now with outlets on both sides so you can plumb them without having to cross over the cylinder to get to the frame regardless if your mounting it facing forward (stock) or turning it around (facing rearward, old ford style). They provide plugs to the unused ports. You can get them on Ebay under vintage cars/parts/brakes and usually run about $40 new. They are available at all of the usual auto parts stores under the same description, but will only come with the ports on the stock Vette side.

Frank

 

If the 2" travel is with no pressuer but total stroke of the piston, I would think under pressuer it would only be 2-3" pedal travel before the brakes are doing there thing. 1/2 total pedal travel is pretty comon movement for non power drum brakes.
The Wizzard