My Dad and I are having trouble deciding what pinion angle to run right now we are at 0 dregress with the motor at what ever degree we what no motor mounts have been made yet. We are going to put the body on the frame to get the motor where it needs to be but having trouble with the rear end on what is the correct pinion angle to run. Sorry what we have is a 30 model a with a buggy spring any help what so ever would be great instead of my father and I arguring most of the night and cutting everything apart for the 3rd time.THANK YOU SO MUCH
google is your friend. The default is normally 3* down on the pinion and set the engine transmission put the carb mounting flange level. (usually this will put the transmission output at 2 or 3* down also. The idea is to cancel each other out.............. http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/
So putting the rear end at 0 degrees and the motor at 0 degress is not a good idea? Thanks alot by posting something for me I know everyone is tired about talking about this but it means so much to my father and I. But yes I will check that out.
Yes I have heard that but 0 degrees on the pinion and maybe 1 or 2 degrees on the motor would be to much for the needle bearings?
Everything I've read says the angles of deflection MUST be the same between the pinion and the engine to keep everything parallel. Flatman
If they point at each other they will brinnel, since they will be static. I believe that both angles should match, as in 3* down on the trans and 3* up on the diff. This is probably ideal as long as the u-joints can still work. When you level the carb mounting flange I think you get more angle than this, so you have some room to get creative, or should I say; resourceful.
You haven't been very specific as to what is done. Zero pinyon and what ever on the motor sounds like a lot undecided and trouble on the way. Is this car together or are you working on a bare frame? When people bring me a bare frame for mounts I first get some information to assighn Fixed numbers. Ride hight front and rear is a must. Then Tire size front and rear. Set the motor so carb flange on manifold is 1 degree up in front with sufficent ground clearance for the Pan. Then hang the rear axle for decided tire size with Pinyon angle 1/2 to 1 Degree down from Crank shaft center line angle. This is at Loaded ride hight. Now you have the makings of a Chassis. Also, if you don't have one get a Digital pro level so degrees are acaurate. Those plastic magnetic base bobbing neddle angle finders are Crap and only close at best. Another thing is to be sure the Frame is level side to side front and rear. Good luck, The Wizzard
Everything you wanted to know about setting up driveline angles and were afraid to ask. I've posted this link here before but its a killer so I'll drop it on you again. http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm -Bigchief.
2 degrees u-joint angle with 4 link rearend. 4-6 degrees for a leaf spring rearend. this is my knowledge. motor mounted level at the carb mount or if you are going to be "slamming" the car it should be leaned forward (trans is the high side) by up to 3 degrees. make sure you understand the differnece between u-joint angle and drive shaft angle.
the crank shaft angle should be 3 degrees down, if you are running ladder bars or leaf springs set the pinion at 3 degrees down this will level the pinion to 0 when you launch the car giving it the wieght transfer needed...if you are running a 4-bar rear, set the pinion to 0 because it will not torgue up on accel like the leaf springs and lader bars. Look at your cab surface on the intake manifold, with the crank at 3 degrees the carb surface will be at 0 or level
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