I have a 40 type Banjo rearend with the spring mounted to the rear. I am putting it in a 28 frame. I was wondering do I need to use the stock type 28 spring over system to get the correct wheel placement or can I use the rear sprinng style. I am thinking it might move the tires to far forword. Any info might help I am willing to do it the right way whatever it is just looking for input.
assuming that you want to mount an A body to the stock frame points? yeah, mount the spring on top... you can buy weld on model A rear spring hangars or make some up if your keen... i'm sure if you hunt through the hamb you will find some pix... otherwise try specialty ford parts 626-280-4546... oh yeah, if your building an A, buy the book "how to build a traditional ford hot rod"... worth every penny...
try this... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214334&highlight=rear+spring+hanger has some good info on using the spring behind and lengthen the frame for correct wheel base...
With the 40 rr end, you're gonna have to move the X-member to put the wheels back into the same location relative to the body. I agree with nick51, get a copy of the Vern Tardel book he mentioned or Tex Smith's "How to Build Real Hot Rods", which has a bit more info on suspension set up. Both can be found on eBay. Good Luck!
hi Gator' there is lots of good stuff here and jetmet right on. Also Vern tardel book is dam good. The trick I did was to switch bells on my rear alxe this puts the model A spring in front of the rear axle. this does move the rear axle back about 6" behind the frame that make's your wheel base 106" the same as A 32 Ford. The body's I've used are 31 model A and 27 model T roadster's. I move the body's back to line up with the axle. This also open up my engine compartment. It's cazy how well it all fit to gether. BUT the fire walls on them bubble forward. 28 and 29 the fire is flat so I would try to mark it up first
If you measure from the center of the axle bell to the center of the spring you will know how much you have to lengthen the A frame to use the '40 rear end. Ron
BUY THE BOOK... I did my weld on perches twice. First time we used cast perches and stick welded them, my axle housings warped. Second time (after digging up a new set of tubes) we used mild steel perches and built a ring that connected the perch so that the weld could go 360 deg around the tube and had no problems with warpage. I'd recommend having the machine work done to the bearing races BEFORE you weld the perches on if you decide to go that route...
"Where you going city boy?" If you're looking to lower your car some then this is the perfect time to do so. Running the A spring behind the axle and moving your cross member to the correct spot will give you a nice stance in the back. Just make sure you brace the frame and meause a bunch before you cut the rear cross member out.
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