as a painter going on 8 years i have painted every thing but heavy flake. i have heard of all the flake guns on the market but one older technique i came across caught my attention.i heard you can spray 1 coat of clear down and take a mustard-type squirt bottle and gently dust the flakeover first coat of clear,then clear again.has anyone tried this????
I did it on a "patina" paint-job on my motorcycle, but I used a bottle that had holes in it like a salt-shaker. Works fine, but be aware that you will need lots more than one coat of clear to bury big flake and make it smooth.
I can only imagine that would lead to uneven distribution of the flake. That is basically how the flake buster guns work, wet coat of clear then blast the flake on dry. I use HOK SG100 intercoat clear to mix the flake in and spray it on wet with either a 1.7 tip or 2.0 depending on which flake I'm using. HOK now has SG150 as a pearl and flake carrier, basically the same thing.
Ok- lemmee see if I have this straight.....it sounds like you are just using a regular gun but with a bigger air cap? I have a gravity- fed DeVilbiss- can I use that and just get a bigger air cap and fliud tip?
Yup, thats it. Its actually 3 pieces, the tip, air cap, and the nozzle. Make sure to remove the little strainer in the cup as well or else you'll spray clear but no flake! I use the 2.0 for the big flake, and the 1.7 for regular size flake and mini flake.
Yes you can, That's how I spray it also. I would not recommend sprinkling it on because as mentioned it will not distribute properly and you either may have trouble getting full coverage or it might not cover at all.
No problem with uneven distribution if you do it right. You have to get some distance between the shaker and the surface. You also end up with lots of wasted flake (unless you work out a way to catch it before it hits the floor) because you are shaking it on to the point that there is excess that's not going to stick to the clear.
i use a sata gun..just change over to a bigger tip, needle, act.. air pressure helps it lay better..if you sprinkle it on chances are you will have a lot standing..
I used to do motorcycle jugs with black wrinkle and flake and i tossed the salt shaker deal and just pour the flake in my left hand and blew it on the cylinders with a blow gun.. Worked great.. I couldnt control it with the shaker.. Id think for a real flake with real paint and clear buying a gun is the way to go... Dave
So your wasting flake, chancing an uneven finish, all to prove a point? Oh ya what about the sides that are vertical? Transport the vehicle into outer space where there's no gravity? Or maybe turn it on its side. Yup, I use an RP setup but thats just me.
Not to prove a point, but to get the flake on the tins. I'm a cheap bastige and can't afford to buy extra stuff or pay someone to do custom paint. I'm not saying it's the best way or even a good way to get the job done-BUT it does WORK. For the sides you can use air to blow it on. A small fan or hair blow-dryer that doesn't blow hot air will work. Oh, and for the bike pictured, I probably "wasted" more flake than went into the paint, but still, it wasn't very much-I had most of a small bottle left.
A friend of mine just painted some glowble flake. He used his regular spray gun with a larger tip and put some ball bearings and nuts in the bottom and shook it up occasionaly 'The coverage came out great.
Sounds like kids doing glitter at a birthday party... I flaked a Pinewood Derby car the "glitter" way by hand sprinkle into a wet coat of Krylon and then putting it in a cardboard box with a lid with a couple of stacked holes in one end, blew air in the lower hole so it swirled up a "tornado" in the box and dumped a teas**** of flake in the other into the air swirl, made a mess, but it worked on the small item. thus would work on cycle parts, but I doubt on a car. I also worry about the air spaces that will be trapped under the dry flakes standing on edges of each other when the car is clear coated. put it out in the sun and the trapped air will expand and blow bubbles in the strata. back in the late '60's I worked at a dune buggy mfgr. and we used the big flake like it's used on the B*** Boats it's made for. A clear coat is shot in the female mold first, and let set up some then the flake is "glittered" into a second wet coat, but that's resin and it's not "drying" it's setting at a known rate that you can work with and the smooth surface has already been established in the mold. "painting" it on a car is actually backwards to that. Good luck. I'm going to get a big enough nozzle and spray it wet if and when I do a car.
I've used an Accuspray siphon feed HVLP gun with great results you just have to special order large fluid tip,needle and air cap from accuspray.
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