How many pounds are necessary? All these kits have 25-75lb solenoid kits. Does it really require that much strength to pop a latch? I've always ran unlocked vent windows, or a hidden pull cable on my own. On this '53 Chevy, for my gal, she wants remote access. So we're looking for a cheap alternative to the +$100 kits they sell. But I'm curious to know if these numbers are really required to open the door latch. Without the door panel on, I can pop the door open with very little pressure by pulling the latch lever with my little finger. I was considering modifying the tension spring in the latch mechanism to make it open even easier, but I figure it can't get too much easier than it already is. I'm curious to know if one of the "Power Door Lock Kits" will work as a shaved door handle kit. They run substantially cheaper from AutoLoc than their own Shaved Door Handle Kit, but the solenoids are only 8.1lbs, compared to the 35, 50, & 75lb shaved kits. I know for sure that they'll be quiter to operate than the bigger solenoids. A dull "fwump" to a loud "THWACK!", haha. Anyone ever tried this? or am I a *****? Is there a quick way to rig up a scale to the latch mechanism to find out just how much pull is needed? I dunno, just looking for some input. Maybe I'm running a fever and not thinking straight, maybe i'm making some sense, maybe I've ****ed in too many welding and gasoline fumes over the past few nights. Thats what I get for building an apartment inside my warehouse. Any help is appreciated. TXHC
I have an 11 lb solenoid on one side of my car and a 40 lb on the other. No special reason other than that's what I had laying around. Both sides open fine. I'm running the stock 65 Thunderbird latches. 40 lb solenoid would make more of a difference used on a fifties latch. Most of the 60's cars that I've shaved have had latches that require less effort to "pop" them open. I wouldn't use stock latches on a fifties car though, I would use Bearclaws. I would try the el Cheapo 11 lb solenoids first. There cheap enough that you can buy just one and toss it if it doesn't do the trick. I would sport for stronger ones though...just to make sure they are gonna work everytime. Those Spal kits with remotes for a $100 isn't a bad deal. I've used them, they work everytime.
Is there a quick way to rig up a scale to the latch mechanism to find out just how much pull is needed? TXHC[/quote] get a spring scale and hook it to your latch pulls to find out what solenoids will be right for your job
As far as the door lock solenoids go, you wouldn't want to use one of those unless you want to wire a reverse polarity switch to it. The door lock solenoids use a motor that drives the arm. If you power it up it will open the door, but it will hold the latch open, so that you can't shut it. On a side note, i would also not advocate using a door lock motor to pump the throttle for remote starting on a carburated vehicle either, it's exciting, but only once. The lower pound pull should work on the door latch that you have. I also recommend the bear claws. The spal kit is a good one, with good parts, while spendy, it is a pretty good deal. One other option is to go to a stereo shop that does alarm systems and use a trunk pop solenoid, I've used them on a few vehicles (including three of my own) and have yet to replace one. Just my .02, hope this helps.
Use a small fish scale (you know, the ones where you hold one end and hook the fish with the other which stretches a spring to show the weight)
Hope more info posted. I have a '54 Chevy with shaved handles, do the 'ol vent window thing. Have been on the edge of melting some plastic and ordering door jammer pops with door solenoids from Electric -Life.
yes they do....I prefer them. Having everything on the latch and not having mounting holes for a solenoid is cleaner in my opinion get some here http://store.gaugemagazine.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=898
Something not mentioned so far.....If using the "gear driven" spal type solenoids, be sure to use a remote system that limits the "ON" time to around three seconds. If they remain loaded and stalled for more than that, they smoke the little motor in them. Another thing not mentioned...the high power units sold in the shaved kits are usually adjustable by setting the depth of the slug. We use these on most jobs that retain the stock latches. We use the spal types on bear claws.
So do you hook the fish to the latch or the door Could you use any fish, would a carp work ? Bears are protected around here so I can't use a bearclaw
I used door lock solenoids to pop the bearclaw latches on my '48 Chevy pickup. All I did was pick up a couple of springs that I wound around the pull-rod. It worked fine, and the springs always ensured the solenoids returned to where they needed to be.
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