I picked up a complete econoline axle and was going to put disc brakes on it....not sure if I should go with a kit or piece/part a few different ways. Good opportunity for a tech here if you've already done it. Then it dawned on me that maybe the easiest way would be do a complete spindle swap to something less oddball, such as a common Ford spindle or a common GM spindle. Anyone done it? Another tech possibility. I also need to know if this is not feasible does someone make a steering arm for the Econo spindles....going to try to hook it up with tierod behind the axle and a cross steer system on a heavy car. If you made one maybe you could do a tech on this too!
I have done the econo disc conversion on my 63. It was a while back. I do remember that the simplest way was to get a available kit. A lot of talk about how to go about it was going around on the econo board (yahoo groups, econoline) and the popular opinion was buy the kit. I did I got it form a guy up in Orgn. Sorry I cant be much help but if you check yahoo groups I'm sure you'll find all the info. PS: the kit was a simple bolt on application and worth every penny I paid.
Do it yourself. Knock the drums off the hubs, turn the hub OD down to fit inside Chrysler Intrepid rotors (you will also have to enlarge the stud holes in the rotors ), and fab a bracket to hold Nova calipers.
The '37-'48 Ford spindles are easily adapted to the Econoline axle and give you a bunch of brake options. The early Ford spindles use a .812" diameter kingpin, the Econoline kingpin is .750", so you'll need to machine a set of hybrid spindle bushings with an OD for the early spindles but a bore sized for the Econoline kingpins. Leave the bore a few thousandths undersize, install in spindles, and ream to fit. Also, the Econoline axle kingpin boss is about an 1/8" shorter, so you'll need a shim under the thrust bearing to take out the vertical movement. Bob
I used the D&D kit, but there are several other options depending on how much time you have to search for parts (AMC brackets) or your machining skills/sources (mustang parts). Here's some info I saved from the Econo Yahoo groups. This topic is covered a LOT on both groups, so do a search and you'll find a lot: Post #1 1961-1967 Econoline disc brake conversion 1) Use stock front hubs. The back face of the flange has to be resurfaced to obtain a final flange thickness of 5/16”. Also reduce the diameter of the inside neck to 2.791” to fit inside of the center hole of the rotor. 2) Use wheel stud #98113( AUTOZONE or ADVANCED AUTO). 3) Use 2000 Mustang front rotors. 4) Attach the front face of the rotor to the inside face of the hub, not the front as with the drum. 5) Use caliper mounts, calipers and pads for a 1969-1974 AMC. 6) The caliper mount is two pieces. Separate them and put a 14 gauge shim washer between them at both bolt locations. Also the center hole of the caliper mount needs to be enlarged to allow the Econoline spindle to fit through. This is a non-moving part and can simply be filed or use a die grinder. 7) Attach the caliper mounts to the axle using 7/16”x1 ½” fine thread grade 8 bolts. Be sure to use grade 8 nuts, lock washers and flat washers. 8) The hub and rotor assembly can be installed using stock inner and outer bearings and seals. 9) Mount the caliper and pads using the stock AMC mounting bolts and hardware. Most quality rebuilt calipers should come with these. If not re-use the original AMC ones. 10) Use 1976 Chevy Impala front brake hoses. Attach to caliper using a 7/16”x3/4” fine thread banjo bolt with copper washers (AUTOZONE #313939). I’ve done this conversion 5 times with no problems. All of the trucks had dual reservoir master cylinders. The first one was done 4 years ago and driven over 40,000 miles, including 4 trips from R.I. to Florida (2700 miles round trip). It is still in service with no reported trouble. The cost of the parts is reasonable. The rotors are between $30 and $60 each, calipers $25-$45 each, pads $15-$25 a set. I’ve paid anywhere from $10 to $75 for the used AMC mounts and hardware, which usually included the entire brake set up from balljoint to balljoint. The machine work was done for $80 or less. This conversion does not affect the front track width and the studs are locked solid into the hubs. I’ve used 15x7 2000 Mustang alloy and 14x6 AMC disc brake Magnum 500 wheels. If you have any questions contact me at: Fred M. Carello Post #2 ECONOLINE DISC BRAKE CONVERSION PARTS LIST 8-7/16-20x1 ½ grade 8 bolts 8-7/16 -20 grade 8 nuts 8-grade 8 flat washers 8-grade 8 lock washers 2-1976 Chevy Impala front brake hoses BRAKEWARE 88624 EIS SP5229 WAGNERF80965 RAYBESTOS BH36773 4-7/16 copper washers (should come with calipers and hoses) 1-pair 1969-1974 AMC front caliper mounts 1-pair 1969-1974 AMC front calipers 1-pair caliper mounting hardware (should come with calipers) 4-14 gauge machine bushings 2-7/16x3/4 banjo bolts (AutoZone #313939) 1-pair 2000 Mustang front rotors 10-wheel studs (AutoZone #98113) Post #3 In general, there is no 'best' set-up. That must be solely at the discretion of the owner/user/installer. I rode with Terry Abbot in his original '64 TravelWagon with standard original brakes. I was pleasently surprised that they stop straight and even..............Some of his other Econos have the pulling syndrome that most of us experience. Terry Turner is of the opinion that the original factory brakes when maintained properly are sufficient. So, if your brakes stop as efficiently as you need them to, then there is no reason to change. Similarly, some owners do not travel the highways or do long distances like others may do, and are happy with what came on the Econoline and can't justify the change or expense of the upgrade. So, those in the above categories may want to press the DELETE button at this point.... On the 'other side of the coin' ther are a number of ways to upgrade to discs. Each has their own peculiarities. Pricing and installation skill are the major variables. Upgrading to a dual master cylinder and rear proportioning valve is recomended as a common install to all of the following. I know there are others, but the ones I know about or have seen are: -Eugene Phillips does some kind of AMC based system. Have not seen a picture or Econo with it done. -Jay Long does an Early Mustang (65-67) based system that involves machining the spindles ( remove from vehicle ) with the Mustang caliper mount and 4-piston Kelsey Hayes calipers. Instructions are published by Jay in an issue of Econo. Parts include: 2 - 65-67 Mustang rotors, 2 - 65-67 Mustang calipers, 2 - 65 T-bird brake hoses. One way to get the calipers is a kit from a Musatang specialty vendor. These kits got for $700 to $1200. Add the time to remove the king pins to get the spindles off and have them shortened/machined will add an additional cost of around $180 for just the machine work.. So, with parts, probably new king pins and machining we're talking of around $1,000 to $1,500. -Hot Rod Magazine article from '74 when parts were cheap, does a similar Mustang system with a home-made 1/2" spacer. Similar to above, but without the spindle removal and machining. Plus you have to fabricate two spacers. Cost estimate is about $800 to $1300. -Fred Carello in RI does an AMC system that is outlined on his site with pictures and instructions. Minimal machining is required. Uses 2000 Mustang front rotors, 69 - 74 AMC caliper mounts, calipers and pads, 76 Chevy Impala front brake hoses. Rotors $30-60 each, calipers $25 - 45 each, pads 15 - 25, used AMC hardware from $10 - 75 and machine work for $80 or less. -TSM in CO sells a mounting bracket with hardware and rotors @ www.tsmmfg.com Bolt on - no machining. Current price for their #1190 is $269.95 for brackets, bolts, rotors and studs. You have to supply your own calipers, core deposit, pads, brake hardware, hoses etc. So, add another $300 to $375 and a few trips to the parts store to get it all right. Studs have to be welded and some 14" wheels will not fit, rear mounted caliper may hit the shock and shorten turning radius. Total cost estimate $569 - 675. -D&D in OR has three levels @ www.dddiscbrakes.com Bolt on - no machining - off the shelf/available parts. Current price for Basic kit( mounting brackets and hardware) is $259. Mid level ( mounting brackets, hardware and rotors) is $289. This mid level kit is similar to the above, but considering front mounted calipers ( no interference ), wheel studs lock rotor to hub and 14 " wheels will fit, it may be worth the $20 difference in price ! Still have to purchase calipers, pads, brake hardware, hoses as above for $300 to $375. Total cost $589 ( cheapest pads/calipers) to $665 (premium calipers). Further, D&D is the only one to offer a Master Kit for $579 thet includes Premium loaded calipers ( no core charge ), new bearings, seals hoses, lube and locktite. Everything is in two boxes, so no extra trips to the parts store for something you forgot or wrong part sold ! I estimate this kit to cost around $665 if you purchase premium loaded calipers and all the necessary parts locally. I invite anyone to do research and cost estimates to refine any of the above; I hope that my information presented is an overview of each; so as stated at the beginning, the owner/user/installer makes the sole final decision on which way to go. I have spent a lot of time gathering information and seen all but one of the above systems, so just trying to share what I've seen. I am only Human and a certified EconoHead, so please point out any errors. Jim in GA
Info on my axle here might help. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198513&highlight=autoslim
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