I have read about various phosphoric acid based rust treatments and keep getting conflicting instructions. I am using Zero Rust. I was under the impression you spray it on and then wash it off with water like naval jelly. Other places I read you spray it on and let it dry. I tried this but it seems to remain sticky. How long does it take to dry? Are you suppose to paint over it or remove the coating before paint?
Sorry... I just re read and realized you were talking abouth the acid and not the Zero rust. All well. I painted the exterior of my coupe with this mixed with a clear to fight ultrviolet rays and give it a slight sheen. The main reason i picked it was because it is designed to be painted over. Zero rust is meant to dry on the surface. It is an industrial rust coating. It takes a long time to dry without using a dryer mixed in. It took my coupe two weeks to dry to a point I could start ***embling.
I use a different product but here's the directions. I just read them yesterday before welding in floorpans. Spray on the solution. I use a pad to work it into the crevices. Come back in a couple (2) minutes and work it some more with the same pad. Wait a minute and dab off any excess. That's dab, not scrub off any excess. It will remain there until it gets washed off. Don't worry about a white "film" (may or may not get it). It can be painted over after dry. If you have to do any sanding afterward, it's gonna be a pita so make sure the body work stuff is done or you're gonna grind it off. And finally, remember that you probably didn't convert all the rust and rust will return if not completely removed. Also note, that zero rust is not a phosphoric acid, it's a paint/primer. I use the phosphoric acid solution then paint over it with zero rust primer. This is a very good treatment for frames.
I goofed. I went out to look at the bottle again and what I have is Rust Cure, not Zero Rust. The bottle does say it contains phosphoric acid. It mentions letting it dry and then waxing over it. I coated something with it once and any water dissolved it and left the white film mentioned. Apparently not meant for anything outdoors that isn't going to be painted or at least waxed immediately after it dries. Pete, that looks awesome though. I used DLP90 or whatever the Dupont epoxy primer is and was disappointed when it chalked badly and is now showing specs of rust. I didn't know anything about ultraviolent inhibiters at the time. I've got to sand everything down to bare metal again I guess.
very nice, but when you say "mixed with clear" mixed what with clear? and what ratio? and what type of clear? thanks jim
I understand your question. I feel a little odd washing something off with water when I want to prep for no more rust, but I have done it on ch***is parts per instruction and a decade later, paint is fine, ie. no sign of rust or blisters. I'm not talking crusty rust, just flashed surface rust.
Here is a good post on Zero Rust. http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...light=zerorust Here is the mixture. 3 parts Zero to 1 part PPG Omni AU High solid Urethane Clear number MC161. But of course less clear will make it more flat. They now carry a ZR clear. They didn't have a clear 7 years ago but was very interested in how my project turned out and how long it lasted.. I have recently painted the 37. The top was beginning to show signs of fading. What I liked about this stuff is the fact that it is a good bases for a new paint whenever you decide to throw real paint on it. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I have some off-brand phosphoric acid ant-rust treatment at home, and it recommends wiping it off with metholated spirits if you don't want to rinse it off with water. It works well - it takes the stickiness off, but still leaves a protective coating on the steel that will stop it flash rusting.
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