I'm collecting the pieces and a plan for installing dropped spindles (fatman) w/ disc brakes (scarebird) on my 1952 pontiac hardtop. I did a search and found some cautioned about bending cast arms (mostly related to 30's straight axle applications). I believe the factory GM arms are cast, at least they look like it to me. Anybody know for sure? Fatman notes that steering arm modification is required for their dropped spindles. Is the only option I have is slowly heat and bend the cast arms, let cool in dead still air and then have them magnfluxed? Anybody really done this for a fatfendered GM? Anybody got pictures? Thanks s.
fatman should make the arms for it also. i know i have a pair on my 51 Ford that i got from him. if not i think i would pre heat them before bending them and post heating them after. thats how i weld cast iron manifolds and flathead Ford blocks.
Fatman lists the modified steering arms for your ford. Fatman may make them for my pontiac, but they aren't listed in the catalog and the catalog says "modifiy steering arms" http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=17 s.
Fatman here. Almost all early Ford, GM and Mopar suspension components are forged steel, not cast. The way to tell is that castings will ahve a very narrow, sharp line on the parts where the mold halves come together. Forgings will have about a 3/16" wide parting line due to the final shearing strike when forged. Steel forgings are very strong, very weldable, and will accept bending when properly done. This process has been used for years on early Ford dropped axle installations, and on dropped uprights as well. The key is a slow heat and cooling cycle. Use the largest torch tip you have, or borrow a rosebud tip. NEVER use a cutting torch head as it's too easy too burn the metal. You want a nice neutral flame. Oxygen rich will burn the metal, and acetylene rich will carbon harden the steel. A 12"-16" wrench or lever is enough leverage, and will isolate you from the heat. Heat the metal to a nice full cherry red, and then bend. Slow cool by covering with aluminum foil or sand in a bucket. NEVER shock cool with air blow or water!!! Expect to see some scale rise on the metal, that's OK, but no cracks allowed. If you have rushed this process and do have tiiny surface cracks, they can be welded with the TIG process. Again, forged steel welds just fine. Remember that you are returning the outer tie rod ends to their original height relative to the outer lower trunnion pins. This eliminates bumpsteer, which would otherwise be caused by those outer tie rod ends being raised when they go along with the spindle raised on the dropped upright. You will have one bend near the steering arm attaching bolts, and another to relevel the tie rod boss. The drawings on the instruction show this. Call if you need any more help, the number is on the instructions, Brent
Fatman again. I reshot a couple print photos into digital to help show the befor and after. Maybe this will help clarify as well. We do make new welded steering arms for the common Fords and Chevies, since their steering arms are quite short and are very difficult to bend. The GM and Mopars have nice long slender forged steering arms that are readily and safely bent. That does shorten the arm about 1/2"-3/4" , quickening the steering just a bit, but they care pretty darn slow stock anyway. Brent
Thanks for the info. Can you post the before and after pics? I'd like to see if I'm close on my Olds arms as I've got some concern about the tie rod eye to tire siddewall clearance.
Thank you Brent, I really appreciate the information and I'll be in touch when I start in on this. s.
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