I haven't pulled ft calipers yet but, after bleeding the system several times, I can spin the rotors with little resistance until, I test operation of the line locks. After seeing they hold well, I release the lock and ft rotors are really hard to turn. Is this normal ?
What happens if you hit the brakes and *don't* use the line lock, and then try to turn the rotors? (ie, does the line lock have anything to do with it?) Are you running the right master cylinder? An MC for drum brakes has a checkvalve that will hold a few PSI of pressure on the line so that the pads don't retract all the way, in order to reduce pedal travel. An MC for disc brakes doesn't do that. Using a drum brake MC circuit with calipers will cause the calipers to drag on the disc. Make sure the line lock is plumbed in the right direction. Some of 'em have IN and OUT that need to be correct for it to work the right way.
Hurst, They seem fine and drag a little w/o the line lock, but I can at least move them by hand w/o the tire on. The MC is new for a Volare/Aspen w/ manual disc / drum setup. I don't know the age on the calipers though. I'll dig some more. Just wanted to know if there was something (trick) left out of the dir's.
Mine worked fine for over a year, then one day they started dragging in the staging lanes. The guy doing tech in the next lane brought me a diagram showing the problem. The line lock must be located after the differential pressure switch. I dont think the instructions that came with mine said this.
Apply brakes,turn the line lock on ,release brake then turn lock off...if it has resistance to turn crack the bleeder. If fluid spurts out and then the wheel turns freely pressure is indeed being held and you have a problem to find.
Make sure the Master Cylinder piston returns to the stop ring in the cylinder bore. Also check for pedal "free play". The pedal push-rod MUST allow the MC piston to return to its stop.
That is what I didn't check. May need that adj pushrod. Thanx for all the info. greatly appreciated.. Bryan