]I am running a SBC, mild cam, new electronic ignition edelbrock intake with stromberg ww’s with a manual choke and the carbs were rebuilt to stock specs a couple months ago. In the mornings(warn or cold) the car does not want to start, after cranking for awhile I pull the plugs and they are soaked in gas I dry them off and crank some more and eventually it will start. It’s not that big of deal pulling the plugs on the weekends but at 6:00am on a workday it really ****s. Once I do get it started it runs great for the whole day and will start right up the entire day no problem. The next morning it’s the same story wont start. I am just thrown off because it runs so damn good after that first startup. I have tried every combination of starting 2 pumps, 1 pump, hold pedal down but, choke, no choke but nothing works. Any ideas what would cause this? And what would be the best fix? I ****s because I finally got it dialed in and now I am having this issue. I have done a search couldn’t find anything so if topic has been discussed please post link to thread. Thanks.
I'd be looking at the ignition. Something is getting damp over night, perhaps? Once it starts it runs o.k., for the rest of the day, but...its a lot damper at 6:00 a.m. Thats where I'd start looking, anyway... Who's ignition system?
Did you convert the choke from automatic to manual with one of those cheap o kits? If so that may be the problem. The factory manual chokes had a spring loaded feature that let the ****erfly open when the engine first fired so it let air in to prevent it from immediately flooding. If this is the problem, switch back to a good working automatic choke. Back in the 70's I saw quite a few cars that had this done to them with the same results.
What brand of electronic ign ? What do you have the plugs gapped at ? The carbs may be leaking fuel from the float bowls down into the intake. Old Q-jets were also prone to this.
I agree, sounds like ignition. I'd throw a different distributor in there and see what happens. Just remember if you use a point distributor and coil to add back the ballast resistor into the run circuit to keep the points from burning after the initial start.
I have a pertronix ignition, also have an advance curve kit with the meduim spring, acel super stock coil. the plugs are gapped a .035. Do you guys see any problems or have any suggestions on this set up?
How is the condition of the starter? I have seen starters that, although they seemed to crank OK were worn out and pulling all the juice away from the ignition. Result, weak spark, result, flooded engine. Just another suggestion.
I happen to know a lot about the WW. Check my avatar under my name. Hell, I have a collection. Are you sure these carbs aren't leaking? I'd love to see pics of your setup either in this forum, via email or PM, by the way. I'm a Stromberg WW junkie! ~Jason
As far as I knew, a wet plug means oil and a black sutty plug is gas. I replaced the ignition in mine, rebuilt carsb, etc etc and it turned out to be bad valve guides
That's my 'guess'......carbs are leaking slowly, and after a few days are probably empty....so now you go to start it and it doesn't, ya start to pump it and MORE fuel is dumped into the cylinders, fouling the plugs,m even worse when the choke is closed, as it'll draw more fuel through the idle circuits..... When it does start.....I bet it puffs a bunch of black smoke.....
]Thanks guys for all of your advice I will be busy this weekend trying to find the source of this problem. If the carbs are leaking what would be the cause? They are freshly rebuilt. What is the easiest way to diagnose which carb is leaking? I am ***uming I pull them set them on the work bench and see which one has the wet spot around it the next day. Could it be to much fuel pressure to the carbs causing this issue? I am running a stock fuel pump without a regulator. Which after reading another thread I guess I should be running a regulator. Tri power set ups are cool but are a pain in the a$$ to get dialed in
I would take the air horn off in the morning and check the bowl, is it empty..Put a shut off valve in the gas line and off at night and open in the am..The valve would be just temporary to solve your problem..What is your fuel pressure..I believe that your leaking fuel to the cylinders.. That's a nickel please.. Duane.
Thanks Duane, the fuel pump is rated 6psi. Looks like your a stromberg guy so your help is appreciated.
Oh, Jesus dude! Try like 4 PSI - maybe 5 PSI max! You said these are WWs... are you sure they're not EEs? ~Jason
You might want to check this out: http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.autos.tech/2006-04/msg00174.html And this: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244391 ~Jason
If the pressure hasn't done damage, you may want to epoxy over where the factory bores are in the bowl that are usually peened/soldered shut. Sometimes they leak, too. ~Jason
Yeah man, just as I suspected fuel pressue, and I found out what it was, I had to totally say, "WTF!"! Freaked me right out. Poor carbs... ~Jason
I could be off here on how a stromberg choke works.. Im not familiar with it. But Tripowers I am...... When you pump it to set the automatic choke do you pump it all the way to the floor??? you can get away with this in a single carb set up but on a tri power you have three pumps instead of one. and this will flood an engine in a hurry. just pump it enough not to get in the progresive linkage...... It either that or the crabs are leaking down
It depends on which WW he has - most of the ones off of Mopars had divorced chokes, where a coil fits into an indentation on the intake and is covered by a small cover - it is in-turn connected to a rod, which pulls the choke off when the intake heats up enough. GM WWs, etc had automatic chokes where the bimetal is in a housing on the side of the carb. So did Studebakers and some Fords with WWs. I guess it all depends on whether or not you're running with accelerator pumps in the outboard carbs or not, as to how much fuel gets dumped when floored. ~Jason
I would, man. It's probably nasty... Well, if it's leaking down the intake, and not externally. ~Jason
Thanks for all of your input I appreciate it. What type of regulator do you guys suggest. I have stock fuel pump and I really didnt want to run a return to the tank(unless I have to). I was looking at this at jegs what do you guys think?. Because before I do anything else with this tri power set up I am going to consult the experts on this board. It would have saved me a ton of headaches when I was dailing it in, Thanks again everyone.
Seriously dude, post a few pics. Stromberg WWs in a 3x2 are pretty rare, unless you're in Australia. Is that stock fuel pump for a car with a 2-bbl or a 4-bbl carb? That looks like a decent regulator, but remember, 3 - 4 PSI is likely ideal. The only Stromberg WWs that had return fuel lines run were for supercharged Studebakers... ~Jason
The internal orafice is pretty small in side that regulator. It probably will starve your engine. Im running one on my tractor. I think there designed for small 4 cyls(VW,JEEP)
Beautiful! That looks like a tight fit - ever feel like the radiator hose is too uncomfortably close to that front carb? I can see what look like leaks near the peened shut orafices where they drilled the holes at the factory under the accelerator pump on the bottom of the bowl... ~Jason
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