Ok I have searched the web and I have found several finned valve covers for my 235. However I have a few questions that I cannot come up with and answer to. First, I have found and Offy valve cover however it gives years for the application of 62 and later. Is there some difference on the earlier 235's that I need to be aware of? Also the stock valve cover is the four bolt stamped steel cover, is there something specific that will not allow me to use a 2 bolt cover in it's place? Sorry for all the questions, I want to get it right the first time.
Nobody makes a good looking valve cover for the 4-bolt set-up. You need to contact Patrick's in AZ. They can hook you up with the 2-bolt conversion for your 235. Then you can use the cool old style valve covers. That's what I did on my '62 235. Wixski.com (HAMB member) has a cool non-finned one too. Later, Kevin Ooltewah Speed Shop
I have no issue with going 2 bolt. Was only wondering why some dictate years that it will fit. I'm also looking at one from Cliffords... I think I like it...
There was no 235 past '61..or was it '62? The ones you see listed for '62 and later are probably for the 230-250-292 family.. Brian
last year for the 235 was 1962. The 261 was still used in some early 4x4 pickups in 1963. The L22 engine series debuted in the '62 Chevy II, then everything else in 1963 (194,230,292). The reason some places list the Offy cover as being for either 37-53 or 54-62 applications is that they are including the two studs that you will need for mounting the 2 bolt cover onto the 54-62 heads. Since the 37-53 engines allready have the studs, you don't need new studs. If you're seeing a listing other than this, then they have their listings screwed up.
Snarl, Great tag line __________________ "Aluminum without fins is like a ******* without pictures... " I thought something wasn't right cause it says 62 and later. Mine is a 61 and I don't have the 2 bolt set up. So I'm suspecting your right. It's wrong and maybe it's because before 62 it didn't have the 2 bolt set up. I'm going to change it and go with 2 bolt. Thanks.
Just to be clear, 1953 was the last year for the 2 bolt valve cover (factory). The 54-62 engines are 4 side bolts (factory). If you have a 54-62 engine, you need to get a pair of studs like the 37-53 engines have, in order to use the 2 bolt valve covers, like the Offy, Clifford, etc... What exactly are you looking at anyway?? link??
Try this one - made buy a HAMBer - 6inarow http://www.wixski.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1
OK bought the Valve cover from Partick's GREAT place thanks for the tip. Now the question changes a bit. I have offenhauser dual single intake and a set of tube headers. How can I run or create some way of heating the intake manifold so that the fuel doesn't puddle and get the right atomization? Anyone doen this before? thanks in advance....
I think this is what you're looking for: http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/category.asp?catcode=21 An intake manifold heat plate. Langdon's sells them, as well as others.
I am not sure on the years or what engine they are for...but go to speedway motors...they make a nice finned valve cover...not sure if it will work for you but check it out
Snarl, I'm not quite sure, I thought that the manifold that I'm running is set up for exhaust heat. Never considered that it might be for water heat. It's am OFFY dual single barrel intake. It looks very similar to the stock intake heat plate. The headers I have do have a welded fitting on them but they don't go through to the exhaust stream. I thought that this was possibly for an O2 sensor of something. It may accept a tube that I could use for heat. Would I have to open this up if I were going to use it for a heat source? Or would it provide enough heat with this fitting just being welded to the tube? Sorry for all of the Dumb sounding questions. Thanks again..
about the 235 chevy 2&4 bolt valve covers; 53 was the first year for the 4 bolt covers but only if it had a power glide trans , the standard trans cars had the 2 bolt covers. had to put my 2 cents in.
I bought a 2 bolt cover from Patrick's and the stud kit to convert my 4 bolt back to the two stud mounting. For anyone looking to buy one, Patrick's is the best deal going for a Wayne cover and side plate all the gaskets and mounting hardware. I can't wait to get it all together.
While the '53 PG cars were the first to use full pressure oiling, they didn't use a 4 bolt cover until '54. I have seen many '53 PG cars with 2 bolt covers. All '53 235's used the same cylinder head. Look it up in a Hollander interchange manual if you don't believe me. Remember that production year and calendar year are two different things. An engine with a late '53 date code would actually be from a '54 vehicle.
There are no dumb questions. We all learned stuff the same way... Your Offy is designed to work with the original exhaust manifold, but that doesn't mean you can't use water heat instead if you wanted to. If the bungs on your headers aren't open to the exhaust stream, then you would need to drill a hole through the tubing, should you want to use them for exhaust heat. Without the hole its not going to heat up the manifold enough to do any good, but it could be used for choke heat should you try to run auto choke carbs that use heated air for activation (as opposed to a manual cable or a heat spring). Tom Langdon, as well as others, sell a plate that bolts onto the bottom of your intake. It can be plumbed to the headers for exhaust heat, or to the cooling system for water heat. Or you can make your own from a piece of 1/4" plate and drill/tap 2 holes in it for fittings. Just make sure the location of the fittings doesn't interfere with the headers. O2 sensors use a different thread. If you were to add an air/fuel ratio gauge to help you tune the carbs, you would need to weld a proper bung to the exhaust head pipe. Summit sells the cheapest setup That I've found. I can get you the part numbers if you're interested.
Ok well if I can use the header port for heat then I will most likely do that. It sounds simpler than trying to plumb water lines. I also think that it would work better. Would I have to have something like an exhaust hle in the manifold heat plate so that it doesn't pressurize the heat cavity on the manifold? Or is there not enough pressure from a small line off the header?
Pressurization isn't an issue. To clarify, you need to hook both lines up, not just one. 1/4" or 5/16" are big enough to do the job.
OK both lines got it, that is what we'll do.... Final question....WHY both lines? I hate being the new guy with all of my questions....
KKOA, I was asking why I needed to use both lines off of my exhaust headers to run for intake heat. This subject has Morphed some from the orginal post. I ordered a stud kit from Partick"s for my new valve cover. It's going to be COOOOOOOLLLL
Its my understanding that you will have a "dead leg" if you use only one, and it won't heat up like it should. try it and see if you like, you can add the second one later if you need to. If you run one tube into the exhaust flow and scarf the end at 45 degrees, it will act like the road draft tube on the crankcase does, by crating a vacuum on the tube, thereby ensuring that you get flow in the one tube and out the other. To do this, you need to use compression fittings, and the one fitting will need to be drilled out so that the tube can go through, rather than stop on a ledge inside the fitting. Make sure the scarf is facing downstream.
Great INFO. I think I got it.. the dead leg as you call it makes sence. I got it it's going to be a few days before I get it all put together and know how it all runs out... I'll let you know...
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