Pinstripers - School me...

I've got a few questions about striping. I've gotten a few striped panels lately, from Dan Barnett, Adam Padilla, and a few others, and I love the detail and the work they put into each piece. True art!

Anyways, I've been drawing some striping lately, and I'm doing "ok", but I think it was Mr. Barnett himself that said it's a bit easier to brush it than draw it. I'm wondering what supplies I can purchase to do some practicing on misc **** I've got around the house. What paint, brushes, etc. And where can I get them? I don't want to spend alot of money on the stuff, I just want to mess around and see if I can do it worth a **** or not. I did a lightswitch cover with black & red Sharpie's earlier and was pretty satisfied with the look, I just wanna see what I can do.

Any help is always appreciated, and keep up the great work guys, I love seeing everyone's art...It brings tears of joy.

 

My brother picked up the "one shot" sign painters paint and lettering brushes from the same store we buy paint. Any paint shop that deals in automotive type paints should either carry it be able to tell you where to get it

 

I like Mack brushes.... and of course one shot... if you dont have any places in your area... you can always try www.****blick.com.

 

boycott **** blick! **** blick is gay! **** blick ****s! Eastwood co. carries the mack striping brushes and the 1-shot paint. Plus their brush prices are cheaper than **** blick anyway.

 

Make sure to get the Series 10 Macks - blue ferrule. The green ferrule brushes are of lesser quality. Search for prior posts on the board as this topic has been covered a few times in the past. Some good posts out there on supplies, bruch care, etc.

 

Eastwood has a kit with most of the 1 shot colors for a little over 300 bux and they carry a wide selection encluding metal flake and pearls but I choose to buy from Bearair because they are 10 to 15 percent cheaper on 1 shot.
5 to 12 dollars a can.

I buy Mack brushes at O'Riely's for abour 6.50 a brush. They carry 00, 1, and 2 brushes but don't ask for a pinstriping brush cause they don't know what your talking about, ask for a touch up brush and they should catch on.
If you have about $20 spare laying around order an excaliber brush they are little shorter and can be easier to control but I'm broke so Mack it is.

I use mineral spirits for clean up and thinning. I also sometimes use a tiny bit of lin seed oil to keep the paint wet but be very careful how much you use cause I've had paint stay wet 48 hours later and thats no fun at all.

I use old phone books as a pallett (free is good). Hope this helps.

Jester

 

careful about linseed oil! Its organic and doesn't do much for the paint. You should just go buy the stuff that works and keep it in the family of 1shot for now. Pick up a few small cans and some high temp reducer. Add just enough reducer to keep you brush from jumping on the surface. not too much or you will end up with something closer to 1% milk.

 

guess I should give up the lin seed oil but there is a sentimental attachment but your right, sorry to have mentioned it please regard everything I say as me being a total idiot

 

Jester, Everyone has their "secret formulas" they are not stupid. Your process and style develop over time and practice.

I started going by the book. I would almost measure out my paint and thinner and add a drop of fisheye reducer. As time progressed I found the "feel" of the paint and either through palleting it on a magazine (great choice by the way because you dont pick up lint or ink off of the yellowpages)or through palletting it through my fingers (very messy if your not paying close attention). I eventually dropped the fisheye reducer unless I started seeing swirls in my lines, which only happens once in a great while.

My lines on the other hand still need alot of work!

 

The truth is I only used the lin seed because of the guy who got me started striping (Ty Cline the best artist you've never heard of R.I.P. my friend) used it and it worked for him honestly I don't use it much anymore. I love these post cause I learn alot. I use a pallet and my fingers but I only started using my fingers after watching Ron Myers work (hes one of my heros). Thanks to the HAMB I'm happier than ever there must be something to lead poising that makes you high.

 

Practice is the key, I was told to get a piece of gl*** to practice on so you can just clean it off and use it again. I use a couple of smoked gl*** doors off of an old TV stand.
Trust me, you won't want to keep everything you stripe.

 

Don`t do man it`s not A good trade or even fun man your hands will start hurtin and the smell will harm you you`ll start seeing things and everythig will start becoming a blure and WHAT THE **** DID MY WIFE PUT IN MY COFFEE MAN ..sorry about that anyway all the advice here is good I found out that you can stripe with any kind of paint or reducer Ed and I were on the road and ran out of reducer and he showed me how to use gas as a reducer and i`ve used finger nain polish once to do striping go figure anyway im gonna go ask my wife what kind of coffee she used I hope it`s not that hippie **** again...............
Endsville............

 

If you have an asel art store by you they carry 1 shot,at least the one in Dallas dose. For brushes try sign painter suppliers. I just got mine online

 

Nuthin' to it but to do it man...

http://www.mackbrush.com/

http://www.1shot.com/

"Pinstriping and Vehicle Graphics" by John Hannukaine is good for starters too.

 

Eastwood ****s!

Linseed Oil will work,in small quan***ies,since it is a drying oil and will polymerize.
MikeO uses Linseed Oil.
Adding Motor Oil to paint is a bad idea,because it doesn't polymerize.

Mack Series 10,with the Blue thread,are much easier to learn with.
Don't bother trying to trim your brushes,until you can control them first.
I use 1-Shot High Tempersture Reducer for Striping,Low Temperature for airbrushing.

Glossy magazines make better pallets than Phone Books because they don't absorb as much solvent.

Hannukaine's book is the only decent Pinstriping book I've seen.
And I have yet to see a good Pinstriping video.

Check the TechOmatic for more.

 

do you kats oil your brushes after use? I was told to do this and so I do ever time. I was told to use safire oil but I'm broke so I use canola oil or non synthetic motor oil.

 

THC.....
Try Weber Turpenoid if you need to keep the hallucinations and stink down....it's a clear,odorless turpentine sub and Kali swears by it for thinning 1 Shot....also works as a brush cleaner.....

 

I oil my brushes after every use. I've been using Baby oil. It seems to work ok for me...(its probably wrong though).

How does the Canola oil work out for ya?

 

I haven't had a problem yet but let me also say that I don't leave it on them very long cause I paint daily. I don't know what the long term effects would be.

 

We oil our brushes with Asian Love Cream..it keeps the bristles tight and fun to use every time.......

 

does that come in flavors?

 

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Nuthin' to it but to do it man...

http://www.mackbrush.com/

http://www.1shot.com/

"Pinstriping and Vehicle Graphics" by John Hannukaine is good for starters too.

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The one thing to remeber about the Hannukaine is that the photos are shot upsidedown. Meaning the person accross the table was taking then.

 

ive been using the all mighty marvel mystery oil on my brushes...i haven't painted anything in over a month and they are still good and it comes out real easy with mineral spirits...seems to have worked good so far...i had used linsead oil but i bought the wrong kind and ruined some brushes..so i tried marvel since it seems to be the cure all for everything else and i haven't had any complaints yet...plus now my brushes and box smell like it. which brings back memories of racing slot cars... it smells just like the old slot car oil...can;t remember the name of it...but i think it was the same stuff in a different bottle...
zach

 

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...i had used linsead oil but i bought the wrong kind and ruined some brushes..

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DO NOT use Linseed,or Boiled Linseed Oil,to store your brushes.

You can add a little to your paint,because it will polymerize.
It wil also polymerize if you try to store your brushes in it.



Storing brushes in oil requires a non-drying oil,
like Neets Foot Oil,Mineral Oil,or even motor oil and ATF.
I get Neets Foot Oil from Mack,it's probably available cheaper from any saddle shop.
Mineral oil is cheap at any drug store.
Of course,people started using motor oil and ATF because it was cheap and easy to get.

 

Xcaliber brush preservative works great! Its synthetic so it won't eat you bristles or the binding agents in the glue that hlds them together.

Best stuff I have found yet.

 

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do you kats oil your brushes after use? I was told to do this and so I do ever time. I was told to use safire oil but I'm broke so I use canola oil or non synthetic motor oil.

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I've used a variety of oils to store my brushes in over the years.The best ones I've found were(in no particular order)a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and air conditioning compressor oil,Sapphire brand Brush Oil(unfortunately not being made any more and Mack Brush is sold out of it),whale oil(I actually found an old can of this while cleaning out my mother's place after she had died),and what I'm using now:WallDog Brush Oil(mostly sunflower oil and available through Mack Brush).
A few other hints:
Before using a new brush for the first time(and this applies mostly to natural hair brushes)I wash out the sizing(used to keep the brush formed after it is made)with lukewarm water with a tiny amount of dishwashing liquid and rinse thoroughly and dry.I then apply the brush oil and invert the brush so the oil wicks under the ferrule or wrapping.This will ensure that if any paint gets in there it won't dry and cause the hairs to break off.I like the WallDog oil because it washes out readily with either mineral spirits or brush cleaner and doesn't contaminate the paint.
A good way to store striping brushes is in a brush box with a piece of sponge that is cut to allow the brush to lay horizontally without the tip laying against the bottom.If this happens it will cause the brush to deform.
If the brush does deform,it can sometimes be straightened by cleaning it thoroughly and putting liquid soap in the hair and forming it to the proper shape ;then allowing the soap to dry and let set for a couple weeks.After washing out the soap,the brush should be almost as new.
If you're using HOK striping paint,use a gl*** or metal palette as the solvents in the paint will attack the inks in glossy magazines and transfer to the paint.Also figure on getting only one or two uses out of the brush as the solvents in the paint also attack the natural oils in the brush hair destroying it rapidly.
For a lot more tips,check out the Yahoo group pinstripers page message section.
Ray

 

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For a lot more tips,check out the Yahoo group pinstripers page message section.

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A very civilized crowd:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/pinstriperspage/

 

Wow, thanks for all the replies & opinions... I'll check some of the local places and see if anyone has anything I can use, if not I'll order online.

thanks again vatos

 

One thing I would suggest to any beginner would be to not use any grease pencils or special methods for centering a peice of striping. As far as brushes go,I always prefer to use the Green ferrule Macks and never oil them or take any kind of care of them so they lose hairs faster which makes them lend themseves to the type of thin line work that I usually do. As for real brush control another suggestion would be to use your pinstriping brushes for lettering (swoopy script,small initials,etc...) DONT FORGET ABOUT YOUR STRAIGHT LINES!!! Asfor them,grumbachers all the way!!!! Those I oil with ATF

 

whats the deal with t******* them?