Rusted metal Paint- Por-15 etc.- need user opinions

Scotty....Just how the hell did you get the smell of burning rubber into your video?

man, its still in my nostrils!!!

 

an old painters trick is to store the can upside down....then the lid cant stick cause the paint around it wont harden....

another tip to unsticking an old paint lid is to pour some laquer thinner on it and let it sit awhile...

 

My trick to saving this stuff is to screw a large sheet metal screw into the side of the can near the bottom, also another on the lid. It acts like a dispenser and no need to open the lid. Works like a charm!

 

only pour out as much as u need and dont put it back into the can. and put some news paper under it and stick it in the fridge when ur not using it.

 

Isocyanates? does POR15 still have this chemical? I believe respirator masks do not filter it out,you need a fresh air suit to be totally safe?

 

Used POR-15 for the Model A project, then topcoated with POR's "Metal Mask".. You have to topcoat while the POR-15 is still tacky (within 1 hour ). Sets up like concrete.

 

i remembered one other thing, it turns purple if it gets alot of sun

 

I also just pour my POR-15 into a mason jar and clean the lid area real good before sealing. I have never used anything under the lid and it always screws right off, at least so far.

 

the rust may protect from salt, if your surface is not properly prepared POR can trap rust and it will continue to deteriorate under the paint

 

I painted a couple of my heavily rusted trailer frames years ago with POR-15 and they have since been hauled thousands of miles and are always stored out in the weather.
I was lazy, and didn't even bother to do any prep at all, didn't even wire brush the loose stuff, just laid on a couple of heavy coats, and to this day not one bit of rust has reappeared and there has been NO chipping, flaking or peeling at all, other than a slight reduction in gloss it still looks as good as the day it was applied.
I have also used it on other projects with good results as long as the surface was rusty, but have sometimes had problems with it peeling off from clean metal and from previously painted surfaces, for that reason I try to confine its application to only the areas that are actually rusty, dust it lightly with primer when tacky, and then topcoat it all with Rustoleum. This saves on materials cost, and also seem to give good results.
However, if the entire surface is rusty and pitted, I then have no hesitation about laying down two or three coats of POR.
One specific problem that I have had though, while living in Michigan, was if I painted too late in the day, and the metal happened to cool to below the freezing point before the paint could dry, it would end up hardening with thousands of tiny bubbles in the paint surface.
I used my torch to remove the affected surface the next day, although it was dry to the touch, a quick application of heat and I was able to just wipe the liquified POR off right off with a rag, and recoat.
But it is one heck of a lot easier to just avoid applying it anytime that there is a going to be a possibility of a significant temperature drop.