Wiring the RPU

My RPU needs wiring and the other wiring post got me to thinking about what I'll need to do it.

Let me preface this by admitting that my last few attempts at wiring anything have resulted in many blown fuses and one car fire.

Back to the RPU.... I'm running headlights, taillights, turn signals, a 12V generator, starter, '40 Ford (stock) gauges, and ignition. Engine is a stock 283 Chevy.

I'd like to run an iginition switch with a key for the on/off switch but use the stock '40 starter ****on to start it. I may put an electronic ignition kit under the stock points-style distrubutor cap.

What kind of wiring kit do I need?

Thanks, Jim

 

Just copy the diagram from Mike Bishop's book. I'm in the middle of doing it right now... just need some more parts.

Ed

PS- Let me know where you find your key switch. The ones at the parts store look like junk.

 

On mine I bought a wiring harnest from Southern for
$159. Key and light switch was extra.Very compact prewired
treminal/fuse box,quality marked wire.Wiring diagram.
I liked it very much,easy anf fast.
I know you build one but this one makes it a piece of cake.

Used Ron Francis before,but he`s priced himself way out of
the market.
Good Luck...JR

 

Harrison, your deal sounds alot like how I wired my Chevy...except for a few minor details such as the fact that I elected not to run turn signals.

I could draw you a diagram, but I'd check out the one mentioned above...probably more professional than my scribbles would be!

Anyhoo...I used a parts store key switch with start and accessory positions in the stock location. It can now be started using just the key like a 'modern' car. (The switch is about a six dollar part).

For headlights, I kinda went overkill...considering that they're just old style single round sealed beam units, but I didn't want any TROUBLE out of 'em! I ran a pull switch that sends power to the dimmer switch. Depending whether high or low beams are selected, the dimmer switch sends current to one of two Bosch relays (either the hig beam one or the low beam one) and from the selected relay, full current goes to the headlamps. A relay for high and another for low means that low current is drawn through the switches and that one circut can cover for the other if a relay fails. In addition, I have a spare relay mounted next to the two headlamp relays that can be plugged in if needed!

Tail light wiring involves a second pull switch going to the rear lamps.

Brakelights were wired through a stock S10 switch mounted to the dash which is activated by the hanging S10 pedal I swapped in. All lights have dedicated ground wires run to them to insure against problems with bad grounds due to the rusty body!

Starter, charging and ignition wiring were pretty basic...late model (70s) GM fare...HEI (one hot wire) ignition, internally regulated 63amp alternator, and standard GM starter. No challenges there!

For a fuse box, I used a generic aftermarket one with the modern blade style fuses and a couple heavy duty in-line fuse holders for the fuel pump and radio.

It ended up costing me about as much as a kit would've run to buy all the wire, terminals, fusebox, switches and such...but it's done the way I wanted it, and I know it'll work for a LONG time!

Just use common sense...don't route any wires through metal (like the firewall) without the use of grommetts. Insulate, wrap, and secure all your wires to keep them from heat, vibration and moving object (p***enger's included!).

Also, use a light coat of No-Ox-Id or similar compound on all connections. It will help fight corrosion and keep the juice flowing freely for a good long while!

 

Heres a simple panel that is cheaper than buying th parts separately at your local parts house. Parr Automotive sells it. The panel is $60. Do th math, you CANT buy that **** cheaper!

 

[ QUOTE ]
Let me preface this by admitting that my last few attempts at wiring anything have resulted in many blown fuses and one car fire.


[/ QUOTE ]
Harrison, I hope this wasn't from installing a <font color="blue"> new </font> harness into a vehicle.
Sounds like you were trying to repair an old abortion instead.
Rarely are you going to run into problems when buying a wiring harness kit. I used one fron Kwik wire and was happy with the quality and best of all the price.
Anymre all of these are pretty foolproof. I would advise you though not to buy one of the larger harness with alot of unneccessary circuits. You won't need these on your installation. Usually these kits have the basic kit that primarily is used for T-buckets and the like. I would go a step above that just to make sure you have enough circuits on your installation. The ignition switch installation with the starter ****on is do-able with any of these kits. You may just have to run an extra wire for the starter switch power and feed to the solenoid. You will have extra wires on most kits that you won't be using, plenty of wire for any extra wiring you need. Definitely get the 7 wire turn signal switch for the column. These kits are designed for this switch and it will solve any headaches you have with the brake and turn signal installation. No problem hooking up your electronic distributor. No different that any regular hookup. Good luck and give a yell when you get stuck. Notice I said "when".

 

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm an idiot when it comes to wiring so I believe my best bet will probably be to buy a little wiring kit.

From the other post it sounds like EZ Wire is a decent company to deal with.

Thanks, JH