I have read some threads on panel replacement while every job is the same they are also different. Here is my Impala and the panels. I have a mig welder and have read up on doing the welding itself. THe replacement panels are new BUT the seam over the top does not match the ones on the car. Should i cut then below that top body line? ALso i have a crimper to overlap the joint rather then **** it, is that a good idea? I can cut the new panels anywhere because the repair area is mostly rust around the wheel well. Any advice would be much appreciated I am forced to MIG it because thats the only welder i have and i don't feel like paying somone to do it. Please note i did a search on this topic and have read some of the threads which were very helpfull. Forgive the color on the pics my camera is on the blink. Hank.
You have the pic links in between text.... Hit enter after every pic link to get them to show up horizontally... As for the panels....I prefer to keep as much of the original metal and cut out JUST the bad stuff....
Hey, I'd remove the aluminum trim from the quarter, and take a good, honest look inside the trunk, around the wheelhouse area. Chances are good that all of your rust isn't confined to the outer quarter skin. You'll probably be makin' up some patches to cover repairs on the wheelhouse, prior to replacement of the outer skin. Is that an OEM replacement sheetmetal quarter or repop? If it's a repop, check over the part ,very carefully. It may, or may not be a very close match for what's on the vehicle. If the shape, form and swage lines are a go, I'd drop about one inch below the char- acter line, and but weld the entire quarter. B Post to taillamp. A lap seam is an option for joining the two panels, but not a good one. S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
Hey thanks for the replies , so a lap joint is not a good option? Have you a idea on how to scribe a clean and accurate line on a panel so large for a nice **** joint? I have 1/4's for both sides and they are repro not from chevy , they seem to be of good quality i got then from a shop in Ohio after looking online for deals etc.. i think 225$ each plus shipping. there is really not alot of rot inside i might have to do some repair work to the inner fender well's but not alot, plus undercoating can hide any repairs i do inside and to the inner fender. What worries me is warping and the slight crease the lap joint might make it somewhat more rigid. What are the drawbacks from a lap joint? Maybe cut the wheelwell ,put the new panel in place after it is trimmed and scribe it ? I mention cutting the wheel well to get the height correct with incase there are any differences in the radius of the wheelwell so it does not get " hung up " on anything. Again thanks !
If you've never done any metal work get help. That's a BIG **** joint. It will take two guy's working the welding to keep it under control. You should be hammering and dollying the spot welds as you go. One guy working the dolly the other welding and hammering. You can do it. Just don't rush it!
Hey Hank, Here's how I'd go after this one: I'd plan on using the whole quarter, given you've got damage jus' below the upper character line, that and this era Chevrolet will probably have some "waves" in the quar- ter to begin with. Grind the quarter panel from the upper character line down 4''. Drill the spot welds out of the lower pinch weld areas, and do as clean of a job as you can to drill all of them out. If you use a panel cutter for this, you'll tear up some good metal and ruin the flanges at the lower pinch weld and wheelhouse areas, don't do this! Take a roll of 3/4 masking tape and pull a line through the quarter, say 3'' down from the top character line. This cut is jus' a rough one, you'll be making a final, once the repoped quarter is trimmed and fit- ted. Once the quarter is free of the wheelhouse, I think you'll find that the idea of the quarter "gettin' hung up"isn't much consern, giver how floppy it will be once it's not welded to the quarter. Now pull a tape line on the repop quarter3/4'' down from the top character line. Do a clean job on this line with no waves. Now trim the panel on this line. A die grinder with a thin disc will work well (I don't have to talk about goggles and gloves, do I?) a hack saw and sharp tin snips will work, also, if used with skill and care. Now fit up the trimmed quarter to the vehicle and screw/ clamp it into position. Check and recheck the fit. Now scribe a line, with a metal scribe, a "Sharpie" pen can be used, but they don't leave a good, clean line on the panel. Remember we want a dead-nuts fit up, with no gaps big enough to through a cat through. Remove the repopped panel, and trim the old quarter to a perfect line, as scribed. You can leave a gap between the two panels to allow for expansion during welding, say the thickness if the metal, but I don't. , start tacking the panel at the far corners of the panel. No tacks should be closer than 1', until you have the whole panel, roughly tacked. Always watch your heat when welding and make no welds side by side until the finish p***. Always "leap-frog "your welds first 12'', than 6'', than 3''. We stayed up close to that upper char- acter line, for our flange, as the panel is much stronger there, than in the lower, low crowned area, further down on the quarter panel. "IF" you take your time, spread your tack welds out, don't allow the heat to build up in the panel, and have done a good job of t******* and fitting, ya won't need much filler to finish this off. Drop the ball on any of these and you're screwed! S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
I will be attacking this job soon and thank you for your time PP , I will keep ya posted i pretty much have what your saying in mind as in i can visualize it. I like the idea of using the whole panel because its so streight and pretty so prepping that for paint [ whick i'm also doing] The car is amazingly rust free except for that one area, you should see the trunk and floor boards , I'll post up some more pics of the new interior i did, i painted the front of the car already but plan on spraying it again , i had use of a garage for a short while thats why the front and doors are painted but there is no seam on the roof to rear quarters and i supose i could feather that in but i wanted to get the quarters done and just paint those areas , being an amature there is a few spots i wanna touch up and just respray the whole thing again. Again thanks for your time. The Hank.
Pimpin Paint covered it well. One sugestion I'd add on a cut that long. Fit the new panel with an overlap (the amount dosen't matter) use zip screws, or well spaced tacks to hold it in place, then start cutting thru both panels with a thin cut off blade or a air powered hack saw. As you cut, peal back the over lapped metal and tack every 6" or so on the new cut line. This will leave you with a nice fit for the **** joint, and is easier than trying to fit the panel with both pieces cut to the final cut lines. Also make your seam where you have the most access to hammer and dolly the seam.
I understand exactly what your saying tinbender infact i was wondering if doing that was possible or a standard norm, I'm a carpender so i'm pretty handy with my hands just have not done alot of metal work. but your method seemed logical to me , il glad someone said that because that was something i was going to try , as stated above leave a gap between the two pieces the thickness of the material , i figured the thickness of a sawzall blade was close enoulgh. Thanks for your time.
I would follow what pimpin paint said. That is basically how I did the quarters on my 66. I think I even bought the same patch panels. Mine came from Hubbard's Impala Parts. I used a flange tool and flanged down the original metal and overlapped the patch metal. I used cleco pins to hold the metal while t******* and then self tapping screws for welding. (I didn't weld in the screws.They are there to hold the metal together tighter.) Take your time and trim slowly. Its easier to cut off more than add more metal later. You spot weld cutting in the door jamb looks good-looks just as mine did. I didn't want to use the upper part of the quarter since the body line is not as crisp as factory. My inner wheel wells were rotted where they meet the quarter. I cut back the rust and fabricated filler metal. Good luck on your project.
Thanks man , went and got me seme self drillers today. I'm going to break one loose tomorrow, not cut it off but free it up.
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