Fixing Hackjob so my door can close(w/sm pics)

seeing less tech article in Streetrodder mag(come on 2 tech article. mostly irrelevant to the poor budget builder.) and fewer on forums. Heres some pict and progress of my attempt to fix a hackjob and add a techarticle

roomate had a little to much JJ and as he pukes, rookie, i type

Exaclty on my birthday i got the please to work on my chevy trying to fix the square frame on the body that the door closes into . From early pictures i can tell there was a chop top try by the previous owner. or some sort of replace ment of the top front corner of the chevy if looking at a side view. could of been a graphed piece. If you look closely you see 3 continous seperate welds.

vertical cowl post part of frame i speak of is straight , by looking at the nonmolested doors mating surface to is it should be slightly bent at point where bottom of window begins.

heres a pict of how i tried to fix it with after shots to.

cut the post where weld was. used tension at the top and at the bottom with straps to tilt cowl.






After Tension and Re-Weld



Most help i could use is advice on how i might close the top left gap between post and door

by the way..good sign he still alive. he's puking that jungle juice like it his job...

 

now this is just my opinion on how i would fix that

it looks as if your cowl is too far forward at the bottom. i would pie cut the post opposite of where you just welded it and run a strap from the bottom front of the cowl to the lower back side of the car( something solid) and try tightening it. that should close the gap. you should tack something across the bottom of the cowl to the door. since that gap appears to be close.

 

These wood framed fisher bodies can be a real bitch to get squared up. When I did mine I set all the door gaps first along the body. Mine was still off around the door tops like yours. I fixed those when I chopped the top. My advice to is to get the body squared at the door pillars and work up from there. One question does the body still have the wood subrails or have you replaced with steel? I made mine out of 1"x 3" tubing. Also use a lot of temperary bracing when you get something where you want it to be. Heres a link to my build to give you idea how I did mine. I built a table to put my body on because I didnt have a frame.
mat
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223992

 

Wont that be the same as what i did ?? or is it different. I will try it like you said Monzadood

I think what i need to do is find someone who has a 1932 chevy 4 door and ask them to measure the horizontal distances at varioust incremented heights between door pillars.
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Matt the body still has the wood subrails but they are burnt and will need metal replacement. You made yours out of 1"x 3" tubing , was it expensive. I am thinking about doing this--> uses the existing wood and just work on getting the door to close some what perfectly and then i will weld temperary braces all around so i can pul out the sills and replace them with the tubeing you mentioned. Will check your link out... Thanks

 

hmm

 

The last time I had jungle juice was Newyear's Y2K. It had the same effect on me. Maybe we'll mix some up next weekend? Sorry to stray off the subject. Later Josh.

 

I had the same problem with 36 chevy truck didn't know how fix it .
Asked for help . Monzadood took control, fixed the issue he made it look easy . counldn't ask for better guy or help