Brake bleeding problem, I'm stumped

About the only other part you haven't mentioned is the hollow bolt holding the flex line to the caliper. How clean are the holes in the bolt?

 

Yes the front lines should be at the rear ports on the master.

 

Bolts are clear, I shot air through them. Hmmm so I have them switched? I'll swap them around tomorrow and try again. My only gripe about the summit kit is the generic instructions. Very vauge, since I had done the 51 last year it wasnt terrible but things like this are a pain.

 

The front disks should go to the larger side of the M/C If its an under the floor mount then i believe the rear goes to the front.. I was just under mine a little while ago but .... Ive also done disk disk with ford svo disks on the rear with a disk drum M/C
using the drum (smaller side) for the SVO rear disks and worked great..
Now contrary to popular opinion. Ive done 5 cars with no residual valves and a under the floor M/C.. Maybe im lucky but I never thought I needed all that extra **** and just did it my way and it worked. I use no prop valves either.
Dave

 

I thought you said the MC was on the firewall. If so, I believe the front port goes to the back brakes and visa-vresa. Good luck

 

No No No The front brakes attache to the front of the m/c it needs the most brake floud. the tool men sell a air vac*** tool,that draws flouid and air out at the caliper,not too expensive . jobob

 

Don't matter how you have it plumbed. You have a Blockage. No matter what you do to get fluid through short of finding it and fixing it, you will have **** for brakes. Getting the fluid to Trickle through till all the air is out just means there is a restriction that will stop you from having proper pressure in the Calipers. When using a Large chamber and Small chamber master cyl. the large Port always goes to the Disc Brake. If you remove the Rubber hose and the Banjo Bolt and use your air hose to pressuerize the Caliper, Will the pads grab the Rotor?
The Wizzard

 

We just put disks on the front of my Dad's '64 Plymouth Sport Fury. Just like you we bench bled the master cylinder. The rears bled fine but the fronts took FOREVER!! We tried a couple of different things but what worked best for us (Dad in the car, me manning the brakes) was... Open bleed screw, push brake pedal, while holding brake pedal down close bleed screw (as HanibleH20 said)...repeat alot and keep checking the fluid level and add as necessary. His calipers were four pistons, two on each side of the disk. I guess they hold a lot of fluid because it took alot.

The fronts were hooked to the larger of the reserviors. In his case the reservior against the fire wall is hooked to the fronts and the and away is hooked to the rears...same as on my '68 Mustang with manual drums.

Don't know if it helps or not but we've been there and got it done. Certainly not record time. But a vacuum system or pressure system could ***ist in it.

 

I think your lines on the master cylinder are reversed. To bleed the system this way open a rear bleeder so the pedal will go down and bleed the fronts first,then do the rears.Good Luck

 

I had pretty much the same symptoms on a '73 Chev 1/2 ton. The proportioning valve was stuck. A few good raps on the mounting bolts with a 3 pound drill hammer(don't hit the valve body itself) while my wife pumped the pedal loosened it.

 

wandering around the auto parts store the other day I noticed they have bleeders with check valvles built in so 1 person can open it n go pump pedal, might work better than your stick holding pedal down.

 

I saw those bleeders, only with the stick I can see if the fluid is coming out. It works pretty good to hold down the pedal. The MC is ON the firewall. No proportioning valve in the front line. I looked on the "how stuff works" site and that diagram shows the rear MC port as the primary, which I have connected to the rear lines. I'm going to switch them around today and see if that helps bleed the fronts.

 

I've been real busy at work so I finally got a chance to try and bleed the brakes, **** no.....

Quick run down, the front disc calipers wont bleed, no fluid comes out of the bleeders, I mean NONE.
I have a Jegs brake kit upgrade, I've switched the ports on the master, and the rears will bleed fine in either port, the fronts won't bleed either way.
I've taken the brake caliper off the car and shot air in the brake line hole, the caliper cylinder moves out like its suppose to.
I bought that hand va*** pump and pumped on the bleeder, a tiny amount of fluid, that's it. I get fluid at the caliper connection line.

Here is another weird thing, if I crack the lines at the master after pumping the brake, which ever port the rear line is in bleeds fine, lots of fluid, the front is a SLOW leak. It doesn't matter which port is front or rear.

ANY Ideas, I wanted this damn car on the road by now, and it's VERY frustrating when something I've done before with no real problems is giving me FITS!

 

My 59 pu has never had good brakes since I bought it. Could not lock them up at all with pedal to floor. When I put the disc rear in I could not bleed them to get good pedal. Lying under the truck while my daughter pumped the pedal I noticed that the plunger into the master was only moving about 1 inch into the master with a full pedal to floor. Looking thru some of the on line catalogues I realized the PO did not put a piece that gives the pivot arm enough length to push the plunger into the master. I lenghtened the arm on the brake pedal pivot and now I have full brakes with about 2-3 inches of pedal movement.

 

Some things I have seen in the past. Calipers that are mounted on the wrong side bleeder not on top .When bench bleeding the master cylinder do not push the piston no more than 1 in. Pushing then piston all the way down can cut the piston cup. Does the master cylinder have presure at the master cylinder port?

 

It seems to have pressure at the master ports, I'm going to enlist my wife to do some braking in the morning and double check the fluid coming out of the master. The only other thing I can think of to check is the travel of the brake push rod but I've switched the lines around so that would seem to not be the issue?? I'm stumped..