So I got home from work today and was going to cut wood but my chainsaw decided to take a shit on me so I started to tinker around with the 40 today. I started messin with the rear but really didn't have all the right stuff plus I'm still kickin some ideas around. I have the 318 suspended above the gm subframe and was trying to come up with an idea for the motor mounts. I recently picked up another 318 out of a 81 dodge pick-up for the rear sump oil pan. I have it resting on the engine stand and was looking at the motor mounts from the pu that were on the motor. Just for shits and giggles I pulled off the car mounts and bolted up the metal part of the truck mount to the block to see if it would work. By crikey it will work. I'll probably have to drill a new mounting hole in the subframe for the rubber part of the motor mount. I was thinking of using those round flat rubber mounts that everyone uses for model a frames and such that Speedway sells. I'll put one part between the motor mount and the subframe and the other between the motor mount and the bolt used to bolt it down with. What do you guy's think will those type of rubber mounts work or won't they be enough? I just need to change out the oil pan and and get the motor at the right angle so I can get the holes marked and drilled correctly. So now there is no excuse not to put a mopar motor in using a gm subframe. later shawn
Im glad your saw broke. its good to see progress getting done on the car. those mounts are pretty stout. I dont see why it would cause any issues. its not like your carrying a free roadster out of the woods or anything like that
The round mounts are more typically used in a vertical attitude, so you may find that, being on a slant, with the engine weight pulling them "sideways" (so to speak), that they may not last quite as long as they normally would. Probably not really an issue...I'd think that you would get a few years out of them, anyway...but figured I'd mention it. I don't see much of a problem otherwise....
Yeah I'm kinda glad those mounts came with the motor. I think the way I was trying to think it out in my head I was making it to complicated. It's kinda funny how things work out like that. I'm hoping to di into it big time this year as my garage is finally going to get cleaned out, so I can actually stand back and look at the big picture. later shawn
Homespun thanks for the heads up. Would you have any ideas of something else that would possibly work? Maybe something out of polyurethane? later shawn
cut a slot for the bolt on the block side of the mount and run he rubber donut mounts. the slot will keep the bolt square when the mount squishes from the weight of the motor.
Slag, there is a slot that runs up and down on the mount for the original rubber mounts for the truck. I thought of using them but I think they would be to thick and maybe cause some problems. Thanks for the idea, later shawn
I'm of the opinion that poly mounts are too much like solid mounts, myself, & transmit too much vibration, but other people seem to like 'em. Even if those regular donut mounts only last 3 years, that's still pretty good, & I bet they'll go longer...and it looks as if they would be fairly easy to change without having to disconnect anything.
I'm not sure how long they would last due to heat exposure and chemicals. That would be cool if they lasted that long. I'm thinking the worst part of changing them would be getting to the bolt inside the crossmember. Thanks. later shawn
what about using some old conveyor belt material? most people just throw the stuff out when it starts to wear or breaks. bet a local belt builder has remnants laying around cheap. local rubber supplier probably will sell and cut to your specs.
Are there 4 bolts holding each mount to the motor? The way it looks the bracket will "swing" on the motor. If you also have movement on the mount/frame connection, the motor seems like it would twist over like a sonofbitch. If they are pretty solid, it looks like you might be able to slide a trans mount in there!
Jonny o, there are three bolts holding the mount to the motor, one is hiding behind the fuel pump fitting in the side shot. I'm thinking I have to watch how thick of a piece I put between the mount and the frame. Using the belt material sounds like a good idea. That would probably take alot of abuse. thanks, later shawn
shawn.. for the record.. I said IT shouldnt be done.. not CANT ;-) seriously thougth.. looks great.. keep going
I agree with the belt material idea, for some bushings it works great. I have used it before by cutting it with a hole saw. The pilot bit in the saw makes the bolt hole.
aw...... just front plate the motor just kiddin, looks like the belt is the winning choice , hurry up and get it done so you can tell us if it works or not
Ya might want to check the exhaust manifolds for clearance also,try an early A body mount they are thinner than the truck mounts. if you use the belt idea and bolt straight through it won't have much "Give" as a rubber mount with 2 studs.
No prob man, just trying to throw something new into the ring. Looked like it would fit. How much room is in there? You mean just bolting through the rubber? Any shock absorb on the head side of the bolt from a "pull" force or will the head of the bolt be metal to metal? I'm interested in how this works out... keep us posted. How's the chainsaw?
Rodhotz, doesn't the a-body motor mount bolt fast at one point in the front of the motor? I've been out of the muscle car scene for a while an forget alot of stuff. At the moment I'm not sure how much room there is going to be until I swap out the car oil pan for the truck oil pan. I have a set of e-body hooker comp headers that I'm going to try out. I also have a right angle oil filter adapter to help with the interference on that side of the motor. I want to put a bushing between the mount and frame the put one between the mount and the bolt with a washer to hold it down. We finally got the saw fired up I think it's in need of a rebuild really bad. You have to pull the ripcord really fast then when it starts to fire, grab the throttle and keep it running. Thanks guy's. later shawn
The early Mopar 'A' body mounts are what you want. I believe that 71 or 72 they changed to a rubber sleeve type mount. 63 to 71? use a mount similar to the truck mount, studs on both sides.
Hahaha, yeah it's that cheap gas, always give it the shits. Yeah, solving that problem was a big relief. Now I gotta tackle the rearend issue, and there's another problem solved. later shawn
The early mount is about 1" thick where the truck is about 2.5". if the E bodys don't fit try 67 up A body headers
Check out the spool type mounts, and K frame brackets for them, from 73 or later A (Dart, Duster, etc.)or B (Roadrunner, Charger, etc.) bodies. It would be fairly simple fabrication to make the slotted frame brackets with short lengths of rectangular tube standing up off the crossmember perpendicular to the ground plane after looking at a stock K frame once you have the mounts themselves in hand. Strong, safe, durable, captive mounts engineered by the factory, once you have the frame brackets made up and welded to the crossmember. Should allow you to place the motor exactly where you need it to be.
twofosho, that's the type of mount that were on the motor when I pulled it out of the car. I was planning on doing what you said then I picked up the truck motor(the one on the stand)for the oil pan. I looked at those mounts and decided that they would be easier to make work. later shawn
go get a polyurethane boat trailer roller , you can cut slices out of it any thickness you need , I cut them with my bandsaw , get about 8-10 donuts out of each roller for less than $10
The Jalopy Journal
