So the first 3 new starters i tried on my 64 camino were too long, hit the crosssmember, I finally get one that fits and go to crank it over and Zing, nothing, sooo, that means i have an issue with the wrong starter to flywheel, i'm running a 153 tooth and aparently the starter is for a 168?? Right?? Is there anything i'm missing??
If it's new, and the flywheel is in decent shape... sounds like it's time to start counting. If the teeth are right, it might just need shimmed. If you can find a local automotive electric shop, and have no other option, I ran a beefed up v6 starter for a while. Not too much compression and wrapped it in heat blanket.
153 tooth flywheels require the straight across pattern starter and the 168 tooth flywheel requires the staggered pattern starter. Staggered above ( 168 T ) Straight across pattern above. ( 153 T )
There was a thread on here discussing Chev flywheels and starters a few days ago. Did you by chance swap a V8 into a six cylinder car? It almost sounds like the engine is sitting too far forward if you are having problems with the cross member interfering with the starter. Did you swap engines? and if so what engine/trans combination do you have? Count the teeth on the ring gear. That will take marking one tooth and rotating the flywheel By hand while you count the teeth. Then make sure you have the correct starter according to what Deuce Roadster posted.
Dont hate the eng hate the engineer. Flywhee/ starter drive must have .035-.040 in clearance. Shimming bolts increases clearance. Shim outer bolt and you decrease clearance. Ps, that was a great thread adv.
M-20, Lakewood bell, mid 70's 350, and new 153 tooth flywheel, and deuce that is what i thought too, but i've heard people say elsewise lately, it is an iron cap staggered though so that's probably my problem
try the straight across bolt pattern starter,and summit, speedway,or basicly any supplier that deals with any racing or performance parts offers a mini high torque starter that looks good and functions well.
Put a straight across pattern on it ... I like the GM factory 88 Corvette type myself. I run them on my 32's with the 430 HP SBC's ... This is NOT my auction ... just a example of the starter http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...ryZ33576QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
They actually made starter noses that were both pattern. I have a few of them, they come in handy when donig these odball swaps. Everytime I go to the bone yard I am always looking for them.
One of the most over looked easy fixes is new bolts. We all should replace the bolts if we replace the starter. I just put a mini on my 5w. It worked great the first try. New bolts come with it. I'm using a Delco Delphi from over yonder. I just happen to have several in stock with new bolts for $90. + ship. Oooops that may not be legal. I don't know how to post the pic.
the starter for a 4.3 v6 has a shorter motor housing and bolts right up. i've used them on high compression smallblocks with clearance problems.
You can swap the noses on most Delco starters. Use the nose that fits your flywheel. There are always junk starters around that will donate a nose.
When I put a 305 in place of a 250 in my Nova, I used the 6's flexplate and starter. The block was drilled for the straight across pattern, like the 6 was.
Nah my daily eats noses it doesn't care how many shims i put in or dont, missing a couple teeth and it is a little too advanced
You need part number 3663.It has the short housing and straight across bolt pattern.I would keep some shims near because you will probably need them.
get a high torque mini starter, I bust 3 stock ones till I got pissed off and finally spent the cash and got one...much easier to set up and a lot smaller...
I was in starter/flywheel hell about a month ago. Finally I wised up and bought a mini starter from DB electrical on ebay. I liked the idea it was all new vs the rebuilt autozone junk. I think it cost 85 shipped. It was way smaller and indexable for cleareance. It fits either a 153 or 165 tooth flywheel. So far so good.