Bought 69 327 2bl while ago. Tried to start, no comp. Took out sp plugs inj oil .Put HEI in to rep old dist . Still very little comp .This is a very low mileage eng ,(replacement) . Any ideas.
Had v-covers off everything moving and clean. Owner said he put oil in cyl? and turned eng once & while. Car was totalled (rear) and sat outside 10 yrs.
Had that same problem a couple years back.Not enough compression to keep it running.Squirted a couple of tables****s of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder,let sit for 2 days,started right up and ran untill i pulled it out of my car.The piston rings get stuck,it worked for me. Kirk
If the valve train is operating correctly, my guess would be stuck rings. Use a high detergent oil and turn the moor over. I've seen it done in the past and brought a few points of compression back to a motor. Worth a shot before having to tear into it.
You might try spraying some "starter fluid" down the throat of the carb too when you try to fire it up. That stuff ignites super easy no matter what the compression. A few kicks with the starter fluid and it might show some signs of life again.
If the rockers weren't loosened, there were valves off their seats for 10 years and if it's a hydraulic cam, there is a high likelihood of stuck lifters too. I would pull the rockers loose (not off) and spin the oil pump to try and revive the lifters. While that's working, make sure the valves are free. I'd bet it is in the valve train before the rings but lubing the rings won't hurt anything either.
Pour 2 full cans of Marvel mystery oil down the intake, and rotate the engine by hand untill it is too hard to turn. Come back a couple hours later and turn it som more. Once you spin the crank 2 full revolutions [full revolutions!!!] let it sit for 2 to 3 days. After it's sat for a couple days, pull the plugs, crank it with the starter for 15-20 seconds, re-install plugs, and then run a compression test. MMO is the most awesome stuff for freeing up stuck rings! Once it's running, be gentle on it for the first hour or so, then drive it hard for a few miles. It should come back to life. For your first oil change, go semi-senthetic. A lot of people are against synth in a cl***ic SBC, but it sure works good to clear out decades of ****!
Thanks guys for the wealth of info . Water (small amt) had gotten in 2 & 4 cyl (pull the head) and some rings were stuck . I have some rust on walls so i took the whole eng down . should i deglaze walls / new rings er wat???? 52 csb
MMO is a gift from the Hot Rod Gods, put it in a 283 with rust on the cylinder walls and in 2 day of incremental turns it was spinnin. Follow directions above an you should be OK.
How do cyl walls look? Pitted rust or just a light surface powdering? I'd hit it with a ball hone [#'s 2 and 4 first] and see if it cleans up. If it does, a new set of el-cheapo rings and bearings, a new gasket set, and a new oil pump, and your in business. If it dont clean up, see if your machine shop can "power hone" the pits out. If they cant, a new set of pistons along with an overbore is in order. If your machine shop can dis ***emble the heads, check the guides, spring pressures, and re-grind the valves durring re-***embly for a reasonable ammount, it would be money well spent. Good luck with it. Always happy to see a 327 saved!
I'm just curious... What book? And what would holding the carb wide open have to do with anything? You could have the intake mainfold completely off, and still run a compression check. All a compression check verifies is cylinder pressure- compressing... You need a cylinder, a piston, rings, head and valves that seal. A carb does nothing for compression. mebbe I just missed the sarcaasm? joel
A closed carb only lets a tiny ammount of air thru the idle circuits, that's why an idling engine has vacuum in the intake manifold. Holding the carb open allows air to freely p*** thru the cylinder, giving a true compression reading. If the carb is closed, it cant **** [very much] air into the cylinder, resulting in a [false] low pressure reading.
That is right, carb off or intake off would be OK. Every repair manual I've ever looked at said carb wide open.
my ford had set about 20 years ,i mixed up a 50/50 gas and oil (small coffee can)and poured it down the intake. in no time it started getting enough comp to start and run...my grandpa told me about this trick...
Marvel Oil is Marvelous but ATF has worked great for us freeing up stuck rings. Cheaper too! After it sits for as long as you can wait, I take my compression tester adapter, and ***uming the valves are closed, fill the cylinder with air. This may help loosen the rings. And while on this subject of Home Brewed Resurrection techniques. After the engine runs a bit and the smoke cloud has killed all the flying insects in the area, take a spray bottle of H2O and spray into the carb. Water injection! May clean the valves and seats. May not. Have seen the compression come up after this exercise. Plus you can impress your friends. " See it runs on Gas, Alcohol, Water and Automatic Transmission Fluid"
The rust is not pitted but it is quite dark . Rings are stuck (top) good on #2 p about 1/2 way around, i may break them!!! . Dont have a ball hone. Do have a cyl hone . Dont want to go overbore, its already .030 now. Crank brgs are black and some scoring. C- shaft looks ok. 2.92 dia. What other brgs (new) can i use 267 & 350. Trying to make this low buck. TANX 52 csb....
Picking up .030 ring set tuesday. Need t o borrow medium grit ball hone, (can i use cyl hone) Just dark spots in 2 cyls, but will do all holes. LATER
A ball hone is simply a superior animal. A regular cylinder hone is only good for de-glazing the cyl walls. Go ahead and break the rings, no loss... Just be carefull not to scratch up the pistons. You may want to considr having the pistons bead blasted to clean the oxidation out of the ring lands. This can be done with pistons still on the rods. Costs $5 each at my machine shop... Worth the money. Cant get much cheaper than SBC. Ask machine shop to spec your journals so you can order bearings, and check out ebay for uber-cheap prices. I never really was a chevy man, so I dont want to offer advice spacifically on your 327, but IIRC, the 327 came in both large and small crank journal sizes. I also seem to remember the small journal being forged crank, and large journal being either cast or forged. Follow the good advice of measuring twice, and ordering parts once!
I got a set of rod bearings you can have if the measurements work out, i used them once for a mock up on a 6" rod engine. Let me go find them and ill give you the specs.
Thanks indyips but did find a con ron set .010 to fit . May use orig main brgs, not to bad . May have to use cyl hone to deglaze walls .Will clean parts tomorrow. Toying with camel hump heads i have . Just cores thou, i have to find guts . May s**** the 185 heads that came off , but have 1.7? intakes. yada yada yada LATER 52 csb TANX
Another tip about messing with engines that have been sitting. The old rope or even rubber seals in the rear main can get very dry. I like to over fill the oil pan so maybe some oil can leak into thet rear seal & provide some lubrication from sitting up and being DRY. this may help prevent rear seal damage if and when it starts.
picked up .030 ring set and .010 main brg set today fer $90. tink i got a deal!!!. Also begged a ball hone. Threw my back out monday so mabye thursday i will get er done LATER 52 csb!!!
This is my dumb question!!!! 2 cy walls have minor pitting, was gona leave it but got a brain fart & thought about using J B weld (a skim) or Devcon on da wall Wadia tink 52 csb
Forget it...I've seen engines get by fine with minor pitting. It all boils down to a persons definition of minor! I'm hoping to build a 327 out of a good 350 block i have! Love those engines.
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