HELP!! Heres the quick version of what Ive gone through: 1) Installed new 350/350 combo on the 52 chevy, with a stock chrome starter. 2) Started perfectly, ran perfect. Drove twice, short distances. No problems. 3) After maybe 15 starts, one day starter stayed engaged,had to disconnect battery cable to stop it. 4) Replaced solenoid,and ignition switch, started a few times, then started making grinding noise. 5) Inspected starter, had a large crack running through it. 6) Pulled that starter and my buddy got me a 6449 mini starter. 7) Installed, started maybe twice ok, then started grinding REAL bad! Tried shims, no shims, still awful grinding. 8) Connections good, even bought new starter bolts...still grinding badly. 9)Dropped trans and replaced flex plate today, installed everything, still grinded a little on the first try, but not as bad, second try, back to the awful grinding. 10) Threw tools, cussed out the dog, and went inside to pout! ( The sound is like you tried to start the car again while it was running) Should I go back to the stock starter? It was working fine until it stayed engaged that one day, ever since, Ive been having problems..Ive heard conflicting stories on the two different starters being for different flex plates ( 153 and 168 tooth? ) My last resort is to try a new stock starter in case I damaged the second mini starter already..but at this point, everything is new with the starter having maybe 6 starts on it... Im out of ideas...any suggestions?? Thanks guys...
Maybe check the starter bolt holes in the block. Sometimes those get cracked. That lets the starter mount crooked
had the problem on a friends truck.it would crank fine then it would start grinding they make a brace that goes from the front of the starter to the block it keeps it straight .it solved his problem . make sure the flex plate and starter is the ones for your year block.
I'm with 29moonshine, sound like the starter moveing. some older bbc had a brace from the bolt on the back of the starter to the block. What about timming?? bolts long enuff ,holes in starter the right size, threads in block ok. just some ideas.. Daye
Would 70's and 80's block take different starters? Going to get the numbers off the block today and check...Was told it was a mid 70's by one guy.80's by another... I do know it had a bolt in oil filter adapter not a screw in one like my other motor had...does that help on narrowing it down?? Thanks....trying to get the thing going for Viva....but I'm running out of time here!
I had a issue on my 454. that require milling down the top of the starter. To move it closer to the flexplate/ flywheel. Ive only heard of this on 454 BB/400 SB. you need to keep the Original cone with the engine. and yes it would grind real bad and eventually not start. . I went through 4 starters to figure this out. could be another posibility/Idea
This happened to my older sisters 68 Camaro 30+ years ago. I did everything trying to find out what and why. Turned out the thrust bearing in the engine was totally wiped out. It needed a new crank and everything. I jerry-rigged it up and she unloaded the car.
Are you using the correct shouldered bolts to hold it on or just a couple of "bolts" that fit? The bolts have to align the housing and keep it aligned.
I would also chech the crank for end play.If its moving back and forth its going to wipe out starters.
I had an unsolvable starter problem on a SBC several years ago. It sounds much like what you have. I tried several starters and shimmed every way possible. It still stayed engaged and cracked the nose cone on a couple of them. I finally gave up and took it o a local "performance" type shop They assured me it was "just a shim problem" ...three days later and a new flex plate they were stumped. They even tried their "known good" shop starter. They took my starter and the block numbers to a very good starter/generator rebulid place down the road. They told him it was the wrong starter for that block. It is a '72 truck block that takes a different starter. I didn't know and neither did the guys from the shop that there was several different starters for the SBC. they got ther right one and it starts like a new Caddy now, and that was about 8 years ago. I'd advise you to take the block numbers to a GOOD starter guy or a good shop and have them find the right starter.
Here is a simple option Remove the starter solenoid from starter Install starter Hand engage starter (Engine not running) Look at tooth engage Adjust as necessary for proper engagment Definatly use a nose bracket as the mounting bolts will allow for movment and flex if not Also check that bolts are properly tightnening as there could be junk in holes Chevy starters not hi tech Suggest starter from 85 truck with 305 small case hi torque Good luck Ray
Lots of ideas here, and most good. It may sound stupid, but are the bolts knurled near the threads? This indexes the starter correctly. Are the bolts TOO LONG and bottoming out while leaving the starter too loose. As a couple have mentioned, I've had good luck milling/filing the mounting surface of the starter to get it closer to the flexplate. Exact OPPOSITE of shimming. I'm in Sun Valley, near the Burbank Airport, and would be happy to take a look/listen if you want
if the starter grinds, shims will only make it worse. on one 350 i had the outside starter bolt hole cracked/stripped. I ground the side of the head off a long bolt, filed .020 or so off the mounting face on the nose cone and dropped the bolt down from the top, with a lock nut on the bottom. that was the best setup I ever had on any of the 6 motors i've swapped around so far. The little bracket that gets taken off by people is very useful, and should be left on.
Okay,, I have a repair shop & have encountered just a few of the older starters-70's 80's I think that had severe starter engagement noise & the like. There is a tool made by westling Manufacturing Co. that you mount in place of the starter and it gives you a reading of how much the starter needs, shimming or machining off of the starter end housing. There was/is a starter nose piece that is built to cure the noise problem. I used to keep a few of them for the noisy ones. If your old one was quiet/normal , you may need to get it back. I think an old starter builder may remember about this. The ACE electrical places used to have this one.
This is definitely a resurrection, but I signed up to let everyone know my starter solution. 91 350 vortec with mini starter staggered mount. starter 1-3 from oriellys would grind like hell regardless of which standard shim i used. Ended up correcting the problem by cutting a shim in half so it would only shim half the hole. I shimmed the back side of the mount only so it would stay straight when you tighten it. Basically the starter would tilt when you tightened it and throw the bendix out of alignment. Might be worth a look if you having these issues.
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