Register now to get rid of these ads!

flathead question?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cfish50chevy, Apr 10, 2008.

  1. cfish50chevy
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 579

    cfish50chevy
    Member

    Ive got one head off no problems at all, but the drivers side which had the gasket leak is being a little more difficult....ive soaked it in PB Blaster for three days now and Im only getting a little movement? I cant tell whats keeping it so freaking sealed? I also cant get a grip on anything to pull out with, Im scared ****less to smack it with a hammer so what do I do? Motor is still in the car by the way so not a ton of play room in my 46 ford bay.
     
  2. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,350

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

    give it a couple taps with a dead blow hammer.
     
  3. MBL
    Joined: Mar 14, 2002
    Posts: 1,175

    MBL
    Member

    Dead Blow.
    Tim
    MBL
     
  4. Vic
    Joined: Jan 17, 2005
    Posts: 180

    Vic
    Member
    from Florida

    I popped the heads loose on our '47 by cranking the motor with the ignition off. The compression popped the heads just enough to get a pry bar between the block and head. You'll have to work around the head so as not to bind it on any of the studs.
     
  5. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Cranking it over should pop it loose. The studs will be stuck in the head, that's what is holding it. Pour some "Weasel piss" on the studs and let it soak in. A stud puller is required on some jobs.
     
  6. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,637

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Be sure to leave some loose studs in your head so the head doesnt lay on your lap after it "shuttles" to orbit.
     
  7. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    The old engine mechanic at work tell tales of having to sledge hammer aluminum heads into pieces to get them off the studs. Probably one of the reasons they went to bolts.
    I'd use a dead blow mallot and rap it on the heavier areas of the castings (corners) and lots of penetrant on the studs. It's all a game of patience.:D

    Flatman
     
  8. jetmek
    Joined: Jan 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,847

    jetmek
    Member

    lotsa luck....just went thru that this past weekend with a model a that rusted itself to the studs. required hammering screwdrivers, chisels wedges etc at the gasket to get it moving finishing up with an old model t driveshaft as a prybar for the last 2 inches. crude and abusive i know but sometimes drastic measures are what it takes....fwiw i use bolts coated with antiseize when i put alum. heads on .....
     
  9. 47bob
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 625

    47bob
    Member

    Putty knife, wood chisel, crowbar, dinamite, nuclear device. Worked for me
     
  10. cfish50chevy
    Joined: Aug 31, 2005
    Posts: 579

    cfish50chevy
    Member

    Well Ive gone through an entire can of PB and 3 days of waiting so im going with the blow hammer idea next! ..........thanks for chiming in on this one Tim! Pm me your number when you get a chance.
     
  11. 1BADSLED
    Joined: Jul 27, 2005
    Posts: 224

    1BADSLED
    Member

    My old boss said they would put rope in the cylinders then crank it and it would push up on the head. I never saw it done while I worked for him. I think he knew what he was doing. He was in his late 60's this was in the early 1980's. Also the engines weren't as old and rusted up as they are now.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.