I bought a 49 chevy a few months ago with a ***le here in Austin. I am thinkin that before I get to deep into this build I should get the thing tranferred to my name. The vin tag on the a-pillar is missing and the car did not have a motor when I bought it. The ***le that came with the car has a motor number (GAA #) listed as the VIN. How do I go about getting this thing legit here in TX. I wanna have all my ducks in a row before I go to the DMV so any help would be greatly appreciated. I know the HAMB has the answer!!!!!!! Thanks, T. Oh yeah the thing has not been registered since the late seventies if that helps.
From reading a lot of the ***le/registration threads it seems like there is a right and a wrong way to doing this and I wanna raise as few flags as possible so that it goes smoothly and I don't have to pay additional unnecessary fees. It seems like it really pays to know what I'm up against in this situation. Not afraid just lookin for a little info thats all. Thanks,
Call them and ask, if you don't want to raise any flags, don't give your name or anything. If everything is on the up and up it shouldn't matter anyhow...
Do you have to tell them there is no motor in it? Replacement 216's came with no motor number on them. Why can't you just use the number on the ***le?
You have a ***le with a VIN, it should be a straight change over as long as the engine in question hasn't been used to register another car. I'm going through hell getting my car registered up here without a ***le/VIN, tons of requirements. I tried to get all my ducks in a row with the DMV as well, and the just keep bringing out more hoops for me to jump through I feel for ya! Flatman
there is no way to know if the ***le you have has anything to do with your vehicle. a vin# search by mvd may show this vin# on some other vehicle. sooner or later you have to deal with mvd.
There weren't any "VIN" numbers back in '49, at least like we think of VIN numbers now. The bodies had a serial number and the engines (motors??) had a separate serial number. Some states registered a vehicle using the body serial number and some states used the engine serial number, which is why a replacement mill usually came without any stamped numbers - if you replaced it, the mechanic would (or should have) stamped in the old serial number on the new block.As far as getting your car registered legit in Texas, go to a local DMV branch and ask what they need. Every state is different in what they require. BTW, "GAA_____" is the prefix for the serial number on a '49 Chevy engine. It was ***embled in Flint, MI. The rest of the number is the sequential build number of engines built in Flint, starting with "1001"....for whatever that's worth !!!
You could buy my 350 CID SBC that doesnt have a number stamped on it, and stamp the number that is on your ***le. Gary
well, does texas require in state inspections? My 53 came from "alabama" broadway ***le, and I have to get a replacement vin tag, even though mine is legible. just another hoop, but I'm close. If you don't have inspections for ***le transfers, then just get proof of insurance and go try to register it. you may even get to do a ***le only, since it is inoperable.
Call your DMV and ask what you have to do to transfer the ***le. In Washington, I would take the ***le to the license office and transfer it. They don't verify the VIN and/or look at the car. All they want now is the tax money.
I'm almost sure Texas was a motor number state till around 56-7. Why not go get the transfer done and be done with it. You have a clear ***le and a bill of sale. You might seek off to the wrecking yard and find a serial plate of a junker and stick it on yours with the JB. Just a thought.
if your a -a.a.a.- member it may be less painful to do it there, and you can become a member even if you dont have your insurance through them,and there towing is worth what we pay to be a member,its like $100 a year with motorcycle and r.v. towing
look for the body tag on the cowel under the hood on p*** side see if those nbrs match your ***le johnrodz
I live in Texas too. It should be no big deal. Just take your ***le (make sure it is signed by the seller) and an application for ***le (used to be called "buyer/seller affidavit") completed as best you can and date the sale / signatures for 2-3 days before you go since or they'll charge a small penalty if it's over 10 days since the sale. If you don't happen to have an application for ***le signed by the seller then somehow get a signature on it - ( Texas no longer requires a notary stamp). Go to the county courthouse in the county in which you live (address for the ***le to be sent to needs to be in same county), Just waltz in to the tax office / vehicle registration, give them the two do***ents and they will do the processing. I usually am transferring on a vehicle that isn't even running or maybe doesn't even have a motor and request a "transfer only". Thus, you don't need proof of insurance etc. However, if you want to go ahead and get current tags, then take proof of insurance. They don't really care if it is operational or has a motor - just that it has a legitimate ***le. Just go in, don't sweat it, just be calm. If by chance there is a snag, the clerk will tell you, hand your do***ents back and send you on your way, no "red flags", no state goons going out to seize your car. It just just a simple procedure done hundreds of times every day. Best wishes !
Do what HT said and then go back and get an "engine change" notation put on the ***le when the car is running. My pickup had that notation on the ***le put there by the p/o who pointed it out to me. When I got to WA with it several years later they could care less about the engine change. Just keep all of your paperwork intact as you build the car. Receipts saved for everything big and do***entation on what you did and where you got the parts. Most guys here on the H.A.M.B. have their build pretty well do***ented on the board let alone in a book. The only reason I say that is so that if ever need be you can say "yes, here is the way the car looked when I bought it, see no engine, interior or wheels and tires. Here is a copy of the paperwork on the car that I took the engine, trans and rear end out before I sent the hulk to the junk yard. Here is the receipt for the wheels and tires from the tire supplier. 99.9 % of the time you will never have a problem but there is always that one chance that you may have to prove where everything came from that is on the car and it is a lot easier to have that proof available.
I have done exactly what HT said above numerous times. But everytime I have been asked for a VIN Verification. I've been lucky and still had the motor laying around or still in the vehicle. Pretty simple, you have to sign the Affidavit saying the Vin is correct (just a piece of paper with a space for taking a rubbing). They prefer a rubbing of the VIN either on the paper or on tape stuck to the paper. If you dont have the actual tag, I still dont know why you wouldn't be able to stamp your frame with the ***le number you have and go on your way. I have a '42 Chevy pickup that was originally in Oklahoma, went to Arkansas, and then back to OK before I bought it out of a field and brought to Texas. ***le was Arkansas, no numbers anywhere on the engine, but sure enough on the frame underneith on the p***enger side forward of the firewall was the numbers. I'm guessing the motor went out at somepoint and a new one got swapped in place and the fellow stamped the old number out on the frame where he could get too on the p***enger side. Is it legit? I don't know, but I don't know why it wouldn't be.
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