Been working on the steering and got my steering shaft extension (almost) done for the F-1 box. I cut the 'drop arm' off the splined section and machined a hub out of it that press fits into 1 5/8 tubing. Then I cut a slot into the tube/hub combo, welded a tube that a 3/8 bolt will go thru that will pinch the hub after I slit it. The steering shaft is also notched for bolt clearence to help assure it don't fall off. I also have the drivers compartment bars all fitted, made my water pump block off plate, water fill tube with cap and most important got my carb scoop ($25.00) mounted.....................24 more DAYS!
Got the steering box mounted, steering shaft support made, and my roll cage bent up. The cage came out a little wide but it's as tight of a radius my homemade bender will do. Plus I ran out of 1 3/4 DOM and with money tight I really like the looks of it I still need to add the helmet bars and will install the other 2 bars (making it a 5 pt) after Dragfest so I can run ANRA's Open Wheel category. So much to do with only 22 days to go!
Thanx Rand Man, the simplicity is what I like about the HA/GR. I'm trying to build it like they would of back in the day, without too many outside services and parts.
Well......The steering is laid out using 1" .120" wall tubing ($25.00/ 20')with inserts welded in I machined out of 1/2" 'Hi-nuts' using 1/2" Rod Ends($22.00 pr). As far as geometry I just gave myself plenty of options and will see what works best, the box needs an additional brace to stop it from deflecting. I still need to fit the remaining diagonal. leg and helmet bars before we tear it apart Saturday for final welding. I know the car will be considerably slower than my 11 second door slammer but I'm Damn excited about runnin' it! Sent my entry in and feel fairly confident we'll have the car ready by Race Day, it will be there regardless. 19 Days, Rocky
You think it will be slower than your door slammer, but with you out in the "open" so to speak, it will probably feel faster. You are coming along nicely and quickly also. Good luck and I hope you make the race. Keep us posted as to times and speed(hopefully with a bunch of pics!) Robert
This is the only build that I've done with photos taken 'bout every step of the way, I'll be sure to get plenty at DragFest. Thanks for the encouragement, Rocky
<----- hi im the toymakers son cant wait to finish the car since luck would have it i fit better than the old man hahaha dragfest here i come
Hey son your Comet avatar is too new for the HAMB Better use your old pickup or I'll sell you a picture of the HA/GR Welcome to the board! ..................I do fit a little snug
Hell, we all fit a bit snug after enough years. Well, I pulled the tarp off the HAMBster and lo & behold the thing fired right up and ticked over decently. Still had plenty of battery and the StaBil kept the gas in tolerable shape. Not bad for over four months, eh wot? We'll dust'er off, put in some fresh gas, do some fiddling and maybe even rub some polish on'er for May, so's if we lose to you we'll look damn good doin' it.
Well you guys have managed to make me pull out my chassis and get back to work on it..But will have to cut off the back hoop and refab a new CAGE for it..But can't do it as fast as Toymaker does it..That guy hauls butt when he works on things, It sounds like..Will be at the Dragfest, And will be looking for youse guys.. BTW.. I have a set of Harley spoke wheels with spools for early Ford spindles. If someone might need them...
well after a long day and night of tearing down finish welding and reassembly the ha/gr is getting closer to raceday pops will be putting up some pics today after he gets done with the floorpan cant wait for the first burnout in the shop hahahaha...
After a week of no progress we got after the HA/GR Saturday. After fitting the diagonal supports we took it apart and welded up the cage, front end and 'capped' the frame rails. fabbed the master cylinder and battery mounts and tacked in the fuel tank brackets. This project is an effort of many people, my great friends Bud and his son Jarred, Hippie, John, my son Lee and new 'Team Twirl'n Racing' Member Tom but above all without the full support of my wife I couldn't hammer on like I do. Anyway back to the build, last week I added to the purchases, $60.00 for more materials (10 ft each of 1 3/4, 1 1/4, & 1") and a $100.00 for 5 pt harness & rollbar padding. A few more pics, for ideas and recommendations..................12 more days, Rocky
Started wih a 20' piece of tube, cut off 19" for a x-member then cut it in half for the frame rails. With 12" 1/4 elliptic front suspension we ended up with a wheelbase of 117". Anyone have any input on my (hand) brake handle ratio with a 1" master cylinder?
Mine is 22:1 and I have no problem slowing it down. I tried a shorter one and was having to pull extremely hard to get it to stop. Put the long one on there and it's "almost" like power brakes
I found some info on Airhearts http://www.airheart-brakes.com/pdfs/MasterCylinder_Selection.pdf and Mark Williams http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx websites.
Well we got the brakes, master disconnect, seat and belts, steering, throttle, done and the 'zoomies' ($25.00 for 6 1 1/4" EMT bends that measure 1 1/2 OD @ Home Depot) tacked together this weekend. The small things are kick'n my rear and the only issue we had today when we took out for its first drive was the front tires want to bounce. We have the body, firewall, wiring, the bounce issue and a few loose ends to finish up. It's going to be a long week! 5 more days, Rocky
Shock absorbers will help stop the bounce. Looking good!! Take time and remember to breathe this week, it helps keep the mind clear.
Hey Rocky.. You are going to have to put shocks on that with the springs like they are...That will control the bounce..
Yeah, gettin' a woodie does tend to make it harder to pick out the shift lever. Sorry, just couldn't pass that one up .................
The Jalopy Journal
