Wiring Help!

Okay, I'm wiring my car myself and NOT using a kit. I'm done, except for one small problem. My car won't shut off when I turn the key off! I have a HEI system with a 3 wire alternator. Speedway sells a little wire piece that looks like this to sovlve the problem:


Does anyone know away around this problem without giving Speedway $18.00 for a hunk of wire and what is probably a diode?

Please help. I got everything done and this is the last thing I need to do. Thanks.

 

Put your own diode in your power line.

 

You do need a diode to stop the reverse feed from the alternator. You can find them at Radio Shack. A friend used two connections on a bridge rectifier to accomplish stopping the output of the alternator to the ignition. On the diode the lead with the band stops the flow. The FOGGER

 

What voltage rating does it need to be? And is it actually a diode in their? I was just guessing.

 

I bought a one way diode at Radio Shack and from the Painless Wiring website


To correct the run on problem you need to go to your local Radio Shack and buy part number 276-1661. It comes in a pack of 4 diodes for about $2.75, but you will only use one. The diode will go inline in the Exciter wire (#914). The body of the diode should have a stripe on one end. The stripe needs to point towards the alternator. The diode is a one way electrical valve that will not allow the alternator to feedback to the ignition system when you turn the key off.

 

Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

 

That was it! I wired my without a kit and I am STOKED!

 

I spoke with Dirty2 at the RoundUp & he told me to run the #2 terminal directly to the charge post, then on to the Battery, to charge.
Take the #1 terminal directly to the ignition switch, so when the switch is turned off, it kills the feed from the alternator.
Surely, you don't have the #1 terminal run to your col, do you?
More than likely, not.

All of this is run on my truck w/ an internal resisted 12V coil & a '53 Flatty.

 

Fred, you just are about the best problem solver that I have ever seen! CONGRATZ!

 

did you run the wire going to the distributor to the ignition terminal of the ignition switch , and that's the only wire on that terminal like i said in another post?


i don't think so.............

why do i bother


the diode works too...but put the wire that excites the alternator on the accessory side of the ignition switch and you don't need it

 

Way to go Fred!!

 

In the photo, the red wire is normally just folded over and attached to the Bat terminal of the alternator. Rather than a diode on the yellow wire, you can use a 12 volt light to act as an idiot light, and this has never given me a problem with run-on.

The red wire can also be run all the way to fuse box. As I understand it, this is the better way to go on a high current system. If you have, say, a Buick Riviera with four electric windows, a computer, a DVD player, electric seats, doors and trunks, and a 800 watt boom box, then run this wire all the way to the fuse box.

The red wire should be a #10 minimum.

 

I agree, u don't need the diode at all if you wire the excitation terminal to the accessory terminal.

I can't believe that there are people out there buying those $18 wires when you don't need it at all. Even more incredible is that there are people out there selling those stupid things.

 

You can do they same thing with a 2 wire lamp socket and a small light bulb. Just wire it in series with your exciter wire going to your ignition switch. Place the bulb anywhere along the circuit and it will prevent the run on. Gives a glow when you shut off the motor and when you turn on the ignition, just like the traditional generator light in a traditional wiring system.


jerry

 

Thanks again for all the advise, but the diode was only $2.99 and I got four of them. The other solutions were good too and I'll keep them for future reference.

 

hmmm everyone trying to not use a charge light and here i am trying to put one in (po installed a 1 wire alt). you can use a diode but then you won't know your screwed until it shuts off and won't turn over again.

 

Yes 36, that's how I did it and that was the first thing I checked. I'm not sure why it didn't work I'm NOT an electrician, but I'm pretty good at following directions. I thank you for your help.

 

Some times when we use the real high amp alts. electric fans and sometimes small fuse boxes we get an over run. Not sure why. On the tri 5's we use the diode trick most everytime. Most times we use the new Damjunk switches we have the problem ???? IMO..

 

I've seen fans act as generators as they spin down once power is shut off...usually only a problem if they're on the same exact circuit as the ignition...