The Axle's back after it's hot-tanking. The specialist's opinion of the Cadillac 'Controlled Differential' was "I've never seen anything like this, I wouldn't have the first clue how to disassemble it. What I can see looks damn near new though." So, it's a big raw rusty chunk of metal that I plan to clean and paint before throwing it back under the car. I've got the POR15 box sitting in the livingroom, and I'll be tackeling it later this week. I've got three Anybody used it before? Any hints or suggestions on it's application? According to their website, 4 oz covers 12 sq. ft. (!) That seems like an awful light application!
what ever you do dont get that stuff on your face it is a bitch to get off you will rub your skin raw trying trust me been there done that
yeah it doesn't come off easy..i have specs on my arm from a week ago a little bit goes a loooonnnng way, i would avoid the semi gloss (which is in the red container) as it doesn't even out as much as the chassis black which is more flat like a satin finish, and make sure its clean but dont worry about rust as it actually sticks better to rusty metal then fresh clean metal. Dont spray it i cant stress that enough, its messy and it gave me a headache with a painters venilator on. foam brush works the best.
When painting my engine with the high temp silver, I used a 2 inch wide paint brush. The silver levels out pretty well. By using the brush I could put it on a little heavier the first time thru. Might work for your application also. Someone also told me that when putting the lid back on the can, put some wax paper, plastic bag, or some such between the can and lid, or you'll not be able to get it open later.
Funny, I've sprayed it. Pedal car parts and buckets and misc engine parts. It was out side and no problems. I did add reducer, it's pretty thick. Used 3M respirator too! I did have the metal sand blasted too, add etching and regular primers. Though most folks don't follow this route. I just can't see myself painting over rust, not even as a last resort. Good Luck! Ken
i was inside when i sprayed and i was using the 3m charcoal mask, sand blasted metal has a grit to it and it should stick to that though i have never done that because if im going that far im usually powder coating, but the por15 bonds with rusty metal i guess and is tough as nails
If you paint in 2 sessions, (and this matters to you)- you may see the 'seam' where the 2 coats overlap. I did my frame about 5 years ago. I did the top side all at once, flipped it, then the other 3 sides of the rails, and there are slight bubbles where the 2 coats overlap. If I was using it again, I would either paint the whole thing in one day, or at least paint all 4 sides of the rail as I went, leaving a 'seam' only wrapping around the rail, instead of running the full length of it, if you get me. The bubbles (frame was prepped by the letter: sandblasted, smooth areas sanded with 36-grit, wiped down) have somewhat soured me on POR-15. I would powdercoat the frame if starting over. On the bodyshell underside, I did 2 coats of the silver, and that seems to still be perfect (there was more texture from rust there). Silver does flow better than the black- seems thinner. But I would not leave loose rust on, period.
It is really great stuff. but be super careful applying the second and third coats. I didn't use a respirator and my lungs were in terrible shape for a couple of weeks afterward.
I've used it a lot. Follow the directions!!! Read them carefully, wait the correct amount of time between coats. You'll be really suprised how much coverage you get with a small can. A lot of folks think once a can is opened you have to use it or lose it, but you need to pour what you need into a seperate container and then seal it up, put it inside a 1 gallon zip loc bag, tape the top up with duct tape, and put it in the fridge. It will keep. I've been using the same quart can for a while now. Just minimize the amount of time exposed to open air before you reseal the can.
chassis paint is excellent . bonds well and levels out reasonably well.remember (chassis black)is not uv resistant and will go a snowy black if exposed to the sun as the manufacturer describes you must rub it back and coat over it..but if you are on a budget a wire wheel on an electric drill is all you need(to remove flakey rust) then just hand paint it outside .i use three different size wire wheels to get to the trickey bits saves on sandblasting and really does key in on the semi rusted surface.use a respirator use a respirator use a respirator and when reseal the can place a thin sheet of plastic under the lid or you will be opening the can with a can opener
Ist I must say the search is a wonderful tool, and you would have come up with a lot of info already here... It does cover an awful lot, now how clean is your part? No rust? Well POR15 loves that rust and that's what it really bonds to. Doesn't really like clean surfaces near as much... Then why even bother with POR15? Not really my expereience at all, had a set of truck fenders on a daily that were POR15'd and they lasted fine for well over a year in the hot North Carolina sun....
Note to self: Buy a respirator, stat! I've got a pretty aggressive sanding wheel and a die-grinder for prep, the axle's been diptanked so I doubt there'll be and grease to contend with. I guess based on what y'all are saying, I'll leave the Marine Clean and Metal Prep sealed up for the next project on the car (engine bay? frame rails?) The Axle's a good project as I can get to all sides of it, get it clean and paint at one go, The frame still has a car on top of it, so there's only so much of it I can get to at a time. If I painted what I could of the frame, then decided to do a frame off restoration in the future, can this stuff be media blasted off? I guess what I'm saying is: if there's no cancer to be treated, am I better off leaving a part alone until I can get to all of it?
If it's clean leave it be. Like stated before, small overlap lines from different coats. Yes media blast will eventually remove it. RESPIRATOR is your friend. I would rattle can over it, why not? Try to scoop out, Dixie cups work well, set on cardboard spill tray, avoid getting in can lip, or do surran wrap trick. Get as much flake and dust off as possible. Don't forget your rubbers. Sounds like alot of prep, but is still cheaper and faster than blasting and powder coat. 2 cents
I used it on smooth metal and it peeled back when scraped. My fault. I have an old wheel barrow outside that has some on it from 8 years ago. It's there still. Use their thinner and the paint will come off your skin if done before it dries. Never had the bubble issue. Wire brush and get it on. The headache I have had from brushing it on.
When you go to put the cover back on the can make sure to put a layer of plastic wrap in between the can and the cover. I didn't do this once and I literally needed an air chisel to get the cover back off. Also a related story one time I was painting my radius arm shackles with POR 15. I had them hanging on wire off of my garage door. I finished and was messing around with some parts outside. I turned to go back in the garage to get something real quick and my face went right against the freshly painted shackle. Now I remembered that brake cleaner can get POR 15 off if used right away. So I quickly grabbed some and a towel. As I went to wet the towel with the brake cleaner I pushed the button a little too much sending a jet stream of brake cleaner into the towel which ricocheted and went straight into my eye. At this point I am running around like a chicken with my head cut off trying to decide if I would rather have paint on my face for the next 2 weeks or be legally blind in one eye. I decided on the paint.
Why brother? it's simple to use and it's straight forward. Not dealing with mixing ratio, hardener, clear, etc. It goes a long way for black paint and it is durable. I like to use it on working parts (hinges, springs, etc.), engine bay stuff. etc. Ken
Do Not, I repeat, DO NOT let it dry on exposed skin. It does not wash off without taking some skin with it.
Yep. What they said. Brush it on, and don't get it on you. It will never come off anything it touches. Great stuff
Are you using POR because you don't want to clean it up? If you're going to paint right over the rust, then POR or similar is the ticket. If you plan on cleaning it up anyway, I'd recommend Bill Hirsch Chassis Black. Original color, great vs the weather, especially salt and looks great. I and the shop next door are using it for everything chassis/engine bay now.
zman we have a lot of problems with high uv in oz (skin cancer etc) maybe you have this in north carolina maybe not i am no expert on such things but i did paint a 28 nash chassis with por 15. after about 12 months or so it dulled off and became a snowy black.the paint has not peeled or lifted anywhere but i must admit the patina is real ol timey.were the truck fenders on the daily painted chassis black
I have used POR 15 a lot and the way I solved the lid sticking problem was to poke a large hole in the lid and run a lag bolt in the hole. When I want to use the POR 15 again I shake the can, then pull out the bolt and turn the can up side down and pour out what I need in a coffee can, put the bolt back in the POR can and I'm good to go. I've had the POR on my old car that I ran for 15 years and now on my old pick up. I just brushed off the loose rust and brushed on the POR with a sponge brush.
yeah the chassis paint... we do have a problem with skin cancer as well... maybe I was just lucky... funny thing is I had the fenders blasted but the blaster didn't call me the day they were done like I asked, waited a week or so, by then they had a nice coat of surface rust already, I was pissed, just POR15'd them and put them on the truck. I knew I'd replace the bed with a fleetside at some point so I really didn't care.
I use a 1/4 inch self taping screw through the top of the can. Has a rubber washer on it, used for metal buildings. I don't ever open the can. If you spray it, will drip real bad so have some cardboard handy. Never breath the spray. And also laquer thinner cleans it up great. And like everyone said, pick a color that matches your skin.
Yepp.....follow stickylifter and most everyone's advice and you'll do fine...many moons ago I was using POR15 with no gloves on assuming the instructions were the typical hyperbole that seems to accompany every anti-rust product....Two weeks later the last of the stuff finally came off my hands and arms....the stuff works though....it really works, even on you.
When you put the the lid back on first put a piece of saran wrapover the can opening and then push it down to the point where it is touching the paint. This will elimenate the amount of air that the paint is exposed to. The saran wrap should be hanging over the top so that it makes a gasket between the can and the lid. And every time you use it stir stir stir at least 2 min. it settles, and the gloss will change from use to use if you dont.
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