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37' Ford Truck torque tube ???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dancau22, Apr 20, 2008.

  1. Dancau22
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 6

    Dancau22
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Just bought a 37 Ford pickup, I am pretty mechanically sound but have absolutely no dealings with anything of this nature. The truck is a roller with stock rearend only, I want to use this rearend without the torque tube, if possible can I use this with a small block V-8 (not a flathead)? Or I have an 8.8 rear out of a late model Mustang to use but would rather not go this route. Any help would be appreciated. Also what could I use to fill is some cracks and chips in my old steering wheel? :DLOVE the HAMB it rocks.
     
  2. kruzin karl
    Joined: Mar 17, 2008
    Posts: 93

    kruzin karl
    Member

    There is a conversion kit to change that rear over, I always confuse it, one is an "open" rear, and the other is 'closed", or something like that.
    I'm putting a Frankland quickchange in my 35 pickup, so I'm not too terribly familiar with the stock stuff.
    There have been several articles in some of the magazines about using epoxy to repair steering wheels, a google search should turn up something.

    Good luck!
     
  3. unibody
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 122

    unibody
    Member

    Speedway sells the kit to change your rearend from torque tube to open drive shaft I think it runs about 250$.
     
  4. The Hot Rod Works (Do a Google search for the link) makes an open drive conversion.

    Things to consider:

    Strength: The ring and pinion will take the torque of a mild small block. But the axles are marginal. HRW sells a couple of axle upgrade solutions but they are expensive.

    Locating the rear axle sans torque tube. When you take the torque tube out you lose the device that keeps the rear axle in it's proper place. And you also lose the device that cancels out the torque on acceleration and thereby prevents rear axle wrap up. There have been a lot discussions here on the correct (safe) way to restore this control after converting to open drive (to include swapping in a later axle). Ladder bars are one option. Pete and Jakes sell a kit for about $400. Or you can relocate and reinforce the original radius rods al la Rolling Bones. And the Hot Rod Works has a solution as well.

    Gear ratios: Your axle is almost certainly a 4.11/1 ratio. Other ratios (3.78/1 & 3.54/1) are available but buying and swapping them out will be expensive.

    Recommendation: Consider using that 8.8 with one of Ch***is Engineering's parallel leaf spring kits. There are other ways to go. But this option is almost fool proof and, since you already have an axle, cheaper than sticking with your original axle and making all of the necessary modifications. Not to mention the fact that with the 8.8 you can really put the pedal down.
     

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