I did a search and no luck. Here is what I need some help on... How do you guys attached the rear fender skirts when you make custom ones? A flush fitting design is what I am doing and I just need to get some idea on best ways to attach them. The stock loop and hangers will not work for me on the '49 as I have lowered the rear to point I can't get my connector to spring up into the skirt and clear the tire. Odd request I know, but any help is appreciated... Thanks guys and gals!
i was going to do this with my 55' pontiac and me and a friend came up with the idea of welding tabs onto the inside of the fender and then making mounting braces that attatch the backside of the fender and then get tightened down onto the tab....hope that made sense
I have a tab at the top of the skirt that catches the top of the wheel opening and then have tabs at the lower front and rear of the skirt that mate to tabs on the car with just bolts through those lower tabs. I figure it is no big deal to have to undo a few extra bolts when you want to pull the skirt/wheel. I'd rather have the additional security to know that they won't dissapear as easily as they would if I made them with lever type latches (and it's easier to fab).
What about using a dzus fastener? Would something like that work to hold it fast at the bottom of the skirt? later shawn
heres something i did REAL quick in paint...hopefully you get what i was going for...the green is the skirt and the blue dots are mounting tabs you would weld onto the backsides of the fenders and then make brackets that would get held down with a washer/nut and thus attatching the skirt
So my question on that design is how do you get to the upper mounts with the tire on? I see where this design is going, and I like the concept.. just clarify i bit if you can... any pictures?
well i'd suppose you could make the upper mounts as long as needed so they can clear the top of the tire and are accesible
Change the upper mounts to positioning pins that insert into corresponding holes on the wheel radius and attach the bottom flanges to studs with wing nuts.
These could make nice locator pins- http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Weld-On-Hinge...ryZ29402QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I've done something like this on several cars, and it makes the skirt fit the opening MUCH better! 1/4" locating pins, welded to the skirt ( I use 1/4" bolts with shoulders, with the threads cut off) . Matching 1/4" holes in the wheel opening lip. In front, make the holes a bit oblonged. Install the skirt by putting in the rearmost pin in place, and rotating the skirt up into the opening. No pins in the front of the skirt, but weld a stud at the bottom of the quarter panel, and weld a tab on the skirt to go into it, use a wingnut or regular nut to secure the front. The pins hold the rest. The best part is the pins hold the skirt in the exact right position, not depending on flimsy tabs, or clamps to hold it. They align correctly all the time!
Ok so I am half POLISH which means I am half slow.. I want to get this right.. Locator pin down on the back side lower of skirt and one locator pin top center then a tab on the front of the skirt with locator pin on bottom of quarter panel?? Could one use a Dzus faster instead of the wing nut?? I am LOOOW to the ground in the back and also want a cleaner look... I hope I am getting this correct?? -COS
Don't tell anyone, but on my '53 Chevy I have stock skirts but the original hardware was all missing, so I have a pin at the front that goes right into the fender lip, and at the rear I have a sliding bolt door lock that just slides into another hole in the fender lip. I used 98-cent barn door sliding locks from a farm store. There is no hardward below the bottom of the skirt, and no hardware between the skirt and the tire. The only trick is to drill the hole just high enough that when you slide that bolt home, it has tension on it. I've now driven the car for several thousand miles and had to pull the skirts a couple times, and never had any problems at all.
Hey, I'm the other half Polish....you can use as many pins as needed. I think the minimum I used is 3, one at the rear, and 2 at the top, say on a 54 Chevy. I've more on bigger skirts, though, or if the panels didn't want to align well, like a 55 Olds, or a custom T bird I did.
Those are some good tips on the fender skirts; I have been searching for ideas also. 50 ford, I have the skirts but no hardware, 51 Ply, I copied from another site but the pictures are in the old computer. The guy made the flush skirts from a wooden form used the metal from a truck hood. If I can find the post, I'll put a link to it.
Thanks not a bad price, it wouldn't be worth making them for that price. I just having them hanging to see what it would look like.
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