front axle input wanted

I would like to know if I am foolish for even considering using the front axle that is with the frame that I will be using to build my car. It is from a 1919 Dodge. Is it safe to use an axle that is close to 90 years old. I will definitely use new(er) springs, but am undecided regarding the axle. I have used plenty of other items that are from that time period, but I haven't been driving with them. They have been items such as an anvil, scales, some hand tools, etc.

Here are a couple of pics of the frame that I will be using. It is the one on the top



Also, FWIW, I will be building a roadster that started life as a 32 Ford closed cab pickup. The body is buried away in the barn right now. Once I get it out, I will post pics, I promise. I plan to drive this car on a regular basis (except in the winter since Wisconsin gets too cold to drive an open car year round).

 

Structurally, if the axle magnafluxes OK, it should be just fine.

I think the bigger question is: Can you get your kingpins/spindles/brakes to bolt up without problems? I don't know anything about early Dodge parts so I'm clueless on that one.

JH

 

I agree with Harrison,

Magnaflux everything that you are going to use, especially if you intend to do ANY aggressive driving.

 

what is the axle in the second pic, the one that was chrome at one time? looks like a 32 heavy axle

jeff

 

I'd get it magges as suggested above and if it checks out rock it. Using old "oddball' parts is cool and all but is it worth the h***le to use the dodge axle over a ford piece? Springs, spindles, hairpins can all be mad to fit but you may be opening a pandoras box. But then again that is what hot rodding is all about, good luck on the car.

 

The chrome axle is the one that was on the car when it was last on the road in 69. Previous owner had also welded cups on for coil springs. From what I have been told, it bounced around like driving a pogo stick down the road. I never really thought about the use of that axle since it had been buried in the mud for about 15 years before those pics were taken. By saying that it looks like a 32 heavy axle, do you think that it may have been the original that came with the body since it started life as a 32 Ford truck? If that is the case, it may be better for me to use that. I was mainly considering using what is already existing as a means of keeping costs and fabrication time down. I figured that I could make more progess knowing that I had a specific axle rather than just whatever I found in the yard.

Also, if it matters, I am more than comfortable with the use of paralell leafs even if it does stiffen up the ride some (since I kind of expect that) as long as it doesn't get bouncy.

Lastly, any suggestion as to where to get parts magnafluxed would be greatly appreciated.

Kael

 

Check your local machine shop /engine builders if they arent they'll surley know someone who does..

 

id use the old chrome axle, id clean off all the yucky **** off, do some grinding, maybe have all the old chrome taken off since its in such poor condition and use it, get a posies super slider spring and a set of hairpins or and original A up to 34 front spring and some split bones from 32 up to 41 ford car and you have yourself a pretty simple and very drivable front end, runt tube shocks and youll be fine with ride.

jeff

 

Not trying to threadjack here, but I'm in almost the same situation with an axle I'm considering right now. I believe it to be off of a Model A, but am not completely sure. More importantly, one of the spring perch bolt holes looks to be just a little ovaled out. Is it safe to use this axle? Does the perch rely on friction fit along with the nut on the bottom? Can it be repaired? How much oval is too much oval? It also seems to have two worn spots on the top surface where it looks like the spring shackles rode against it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dude I'd use that setup, if I came accross it , I'd cut the front half of my frame and graph that section in front.

 

Well, Here's the deal that might answer your question about the Dodge axle...

Early Dodge front axles dont have anyreal provisions on the spindle for Brakes & the Dodge brake drums are ATTACHED to the wheels, The hub is actually the center of the wheel.

If it indeed a 1919 Dodge frame, They have a Kick out at the cowl that follows the body on the old Dodge body which is REAL hard to get a Ford Body over.

If its a '23~up Frame they are straight rails & can be made to work as i did with a '26 Chrysler frame under my Sports Coupe, But takes a fair amount of work.

You could use the front 1/2 of the frame & a '36ish Plymouth tube axle machined to fit '39~'48 Ford spindle & run the parallel leafs.. That would be Cool 7 at the same time flipp the front of the frame upside down & run under slung.

If you have a Ford frame already.... Fix up that '32 Heavy axle & go Traditional Hot Rod suspension... Its by far the easiest & cheapest route as long as you dont get all Street Rod & have to have disk brakes, Posie spring, New spindles, & etc etc

 

You can still get nice A axles out here for 15 bucks.... Try and find a cleaner one, its cheaper in the long run.

The perch hole should be true, the dents on top are quite common and they are as you deduced from the shackles hitting the top of the axle....

Good luck...

 

Yes, this frame does have the kick out at the cowl.

This is what the frame looks like from the top and the side.




I am not sure if you can tell from the pics, but the rear suspension also has 3/4 elipitical springs.
Kael

 

I don't have a Ford frame at this time, although I am working on a couple of model A frames in the yard. Dad doesn't want to part with them though.

Kael

 

I am not sure if you can tell from the pics, but the rear suspension also has 3/4 elipitical springs.
Kael[/quote]


Yes, Thay have wild rear suspension !!

I have one here waiting for a body from up North !

 

I am thinking that I will go with a coil spring setup for the rear. 3/4 elipitics might flex too much in my opinion.

Kael

 

would you happen to have any pics of the later plymouth axle?

 

Now where are you finding them that cheap?? I need two and havent found anything cheaper than 100

 

I can't find them at all around here and they're usually pretty expensive when I find them on the 'bay. Anyone know if a slightly oblong hole can be used or repaired?
Thanks to all that have replied so far.

 

Swap meets and the such... I just saw a nice model a axle at cw moss in orange for 50 or 75... I didnt really pay attention as it struck me as being too much $... Yeah 100 for a model a axle is a bit high in my opinion...

 

yeah I need to get to Long Beach missed the last couple and havent been to pomona in awhile something always comes up so I'm left with enough cash to park and look around!! really frustrating!

 

Out of round perch holes may be an optical illusion, as the pad area around them isn't perfectly round. However you should check it over just to be sure. As for the worn areas around the shackle area, I'd almost think that they were made that way. I just got done cleaning mine up and that part looks as if it was ground along the centerline by someone. It looks too smooth to be caused by pounding. Of course after all these years, who knows who did what to them?

 

This goes along with another question that I had posted on this same topic. I have copied it from my previous post rather than bringing the other one back up.

I am open to any suggestions that will make things work well for me.

Thanks,
Kael