we've done pretty much everything, the points are clean, have the correct gap in between them, they're sparking, so are all spark plugs. fuel is getting to the carb, we turned the distributor while trying to start it. the firing order is correct on it... its just not starting. my dad seems to think its the float inside the carb, he thinks it stuck? just wanting some opinions from you guys i guess, you've helped me out before, who knows you guys can do it again i bet <object height="355" width="425"> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZP3I2sXM-qw&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" height="355" width="425"></object>
oh yea we checked the compression to, everything checks out, we got a manual for it to and checked everything. so we're just not to sure what it is.. prolly something simple again :/
Man you and your dad really need to learn about cars a little. First off, be easy on that starter...holding the key in the start position for 5 minutes isnt nice to the starter at all. Second, simple diagnostics man...really. What does a carb do? Puts fuel into the motor. Same thing a cup with fuel can do. So, either spray some ether in or pour a bit of gas down the carb. Does it start? Then yes, its not getting fuel.
damnit i was gonna say that chris, just pour gas into it and then crank it over...for a few SECONDS NOT MINUTES
we did the gas thing, we poured some right in the carb, nothing happened. and that was our last try of the day before we called it quits, we never do it that long..
ok lets play devil here first count to 5 then turn off key when starting you'll fry a lot of **** cranking it over like in your video what no generator hooked up how will it stay running when the starter disengages it self when it finally fires? it ain't spinning over as fast as it should.! pull a plug wire install a new spark plug in the loosened plug wire end with .35 gap hold(lay down so thread end is visible )onto onto a metal surface(exhaust manifold) and crank over engine.... it should ZAP a fat blue spark ...if your lucky it will feel like a bee sting ...numb your hand ... its okay thats the learning curve for correct spark.... this is good ! if its just a orange spark thats bad sorta.. it means the coil is not providing the spark ...many causes...wired wrong , bad condenser , points not set , ground wires missing on engine(complete the circuit for the juice to flow).... its just 12 volts or less going to the points recheck all connections at ignition and starterand solinoid for tigh tand correct placement no sign of any fire while turning over is not good dist.miswired it would fire back or pop is this still in the confguration when it was at least sneezing thru the carb (old vid) what else is changed now? recheck every thing you have touched.. look for the fusible link ...double check all wiring to starter and solinoid.. you have been at this for weeks now this is not rocket science.. if this were me i would now be looking for my stupid brother who used to sabotage my stuff all the time and kick his ***...
Timing or firing order is off. listen to it kick and snort. This should take maybe 15 minutes to dial in and fire it up...if that. #1 cyl on TDC, VERIFY that it is by looking at the #1 rockers; they should be in the closed position, not one up and one down. Then with the timing mark lined up with the pointer, checvk where the rotor is aiming...should be at #1 wire. To get even closer, the points should start to open right be fore you get to TDC mark.
i looked at you vid again ... choke where is the choke set .. open - closed part open??? put a leather glove on and add a sip of gas while turning over cover carb opening with your leather gloved hand ... fuel needs air to burn but not much at the start up.. no cold choke settings will give some extra rich mixture making hard to fire .. hold choke closed metal flappy thing inside the carb by hand if need be be ready to play with it when it fires fire extinguisheer????? and be ready for the thing to catch on fire at carb if it does keep cranking the fire/flame into the engine or put it out with gloved hand or non flamable cloth clean up area of loose tools and any raw gas containers ... ie sippy cup
Jason, check all my myspace messages I sent you, I still think you might be 180 out with the distributor, if you have fuel that is. John
Is the cap wired in the right direction clockwise vs. counter clockwise ? Check for that spark at the plugs if not there work your way backwards checking things.
It sounds like a timing issue . Double check these. The fireing order is 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 the distributor turns counterclockwise. The cylinders start on the p***anger side 1234 drivers 5678.
Timing may be tad slow; try advancing the distributor. Last, did you guys install a cam in the engine?. When I was 17, I rebuilt a 292 for one of my dad's buddies and installed the cam wrong. Cranked and cranked and got nothing. I installed the cam as you would for a Chevy, line up the dots. Come to find out later, the sprockets are rotated where the marks are horizontal and there is 17(?) links between them (be sure to check that number, it has only been 25 years since I did that job). Once installed right, ran like a charm.
Jason: Man are you still having trouble? All of the replies you have gotten are right on! Well I will put my two cents in: Ok, if you have not put any strange cam in and the engine was built by a reputable builder then you should at least check the valve timing. Easiest way is to remove right (p***enger side) valve cover and then (with timing mark highlighted on crank pulley) set the crank to line up timing mark for no. 1 cylinder TDC. This will occur when both rocker arms are not compressing their valves. After you have done this then DO NOT crank the engine till the next steps are done: Now take off the distributor cap and see where the rotor is facing. This will correspond with the #1 wire on the cap. Make sure that is #1 wire to #1 spark plug. (FIX IF NECESSARY) Now in a counterclockwise (left) direction check the next wire and make sure it goes to the spark plug wire in the firing order. Continue to do this (fixing any wrong wire) till you have gone around all the wires. Now put the distributor cap back on WITHOUT MOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR BASE, and make sure it is tightened or clamped correctly. Last will be the static timing step. Take your trouble light and connect the wire to a good engine ground. Then, with the ignition on (not start position) touch the ignition coil terminal that has the wire from the distributor. The light will either be on or off. Continue to hold light on the terminal and now slowly turn the distributor (if light is on) to the left till light goes off. If off (or when light goes off), then slowly turn distributor to the right till the light just comes on and then lock down distributor so that it will be hard to turn (but you can still turn if need be). TURN OFF IGNITION. Now you should have the ignition set up pretty darn close! Get some starter fluid if you don't already and with the choke plate wide open spray a shot in each carb throat. Try starting, if it fires and runs, then your next step is to make sure your fuel is getting to the carb. (This is if the engine only runs for a short time and stops.) If it starts and runs then you just have to set timing correctly. Well I have given you about as much as I have to offer. Try it out and see what happens. (You can PM me if you need to) Good luck
Jason: From what your video tells me, it sounds like engine does have good compression, so valve timing is ok. Just go back and set the ignition timing like my previous post says and try using STARTING FLUID (which some guys refer to as ETHER). It will work much better than gas does. One other thing you may want to do while cranking the engine is to push the gas pedal to the floor till the engine starts to fire. This give s the engine enough air to blow out any gas that was in the cylinders and caused them to flood. When cranking, only crank for about 10 seconds each time. You will burn out the starter eventually. And if you don't get it running soon your bearings will be worn out if you have no oil pressure. Try the starting fluid and see if it fires. If it does and the engine stalls shortly then you probably have fuel related issues. We can tackle that after you get the engine to run a little.
If I were you, I'd put a call out to the HAMB for someone in your area to come over and help you with this thing before it's totally worn out from cranking it. How long have you been figithing this problem now? There are a LOT of people on here willing to help, and I would think there'd be 3-4 near Bakersfield that could diagnose this thing and have it running in15 minutes or less, ***uming that it's nothing major. Put the call out, OK? Both you and your dad might learn some valuable troubleshooting techniques.
i second this... if we cant get it going by this week then i want some local's help. i'll pay em.... i just wanna make things clear that my dad isnt as good as he used to be though. medication throughout the years has put a big damper on his memory and work ability, as well as health. he hasnt had the time to teach me what he knows because well.. he cant remember half of it to be flat out honest with ya. i know i come off sounding a bit stupid at times, or inexperienced, and i am, i know it. i just appreciate the advice i can get from everyone. it helps me out a lot, and my dad. i know this isnt rocket science, most people can prolly build an entire hot rod in the time it took us to put this motor in and to get where we are right now. but yea thanks for the replies so far guys, i am printing these out and showing my old man, we try this stuff you all suggest.. we really do
Do not - I repeat - do not pour gas into a carb while the engine is cranking. The brother of a girl I used to date did that, engine backfired, he spilled gas on his hand and one side of his face. Results, scarred for life and a crippled hand. Nuff said....
When you guys finally get this running, don't run it too long, you have no coolant in the engine right?
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