Alright, I'm getting dangerously close to starting the build on the jalopy project. I wanna stretch the cab about 18", or so, by removing the doors and filling the side in with smooth sheet metal. I'm thinking of z'ing the rear into the back of the cab, but by stretching it I'll still have plenty of leg room. What gauge do I need to be looking for?
I am unsure of sheetmetal gauges, but I would recommend at least a .032" thick skin. Someone should be able to convert that on here.
When I work with sheet metal, I usually shoot for around 20guage. I have used 18guage before and it is just a tad too thick. I would say 20 guage should do you fine. Sounds like a cool project. JT.
Thanks guys, that should help alot. Gowjobs, that's pretty cool lookin'. I'm gonna (and when I say "I'm" I mean "me and Crease... ) z the frame behind the seat, so that I have pretty much the same leg room that is there now, just gonna be longer behind me. Know what I mean? AntiChrysler hooked me up with a seriously strong runnin' 235/saginaw 4 spd combo for it. Got the front end and wheels from Crease and a bunch of other, needed, goodies from another buddy. Stretch the cab and find the rear end and then it's time to start learning about a whole new world...I don't know ANYTHING about building a hot rod! Good thing crease does.
I remember seeing a '26-27 touring shortened like this in Street Rodder (just a small picture in an event article) and thinking that it was the coolest thing. If you are planning on getting rid of the doors, you might see if Tman wants them. He mentioned in another thread that he is looking for a better set for his touring project. Just a thought... Looks like a fun project!
Here's a fiberglass body produced by Poli-Form Industries... looks like the proportions you're talking about, but set up as a hiboy.
Hey Dan, lookin' good! I'm a little behind you, but I'm collecting parts for my jalopy modified. I'll be running a six also. Hmmm... do I sense a grudge match in the making? A little friendly competition to keep us both motivated?
Looks like a really good ideal.Just wanted to give you some sheet metal gage sizes to help you make up your mind,of what you wanted to use.20 gage sheet is-- .035 thickness. 18 gage is--.047 thickness.16gage is--.059 thickness.Now get to work!Thats easy for me to say cause Im peckin on this thing.
T-Man is welcome to 'em as soon as I replace 'em with sheet metal. Gowjobs...that's what I'm talkin' about! Mine will be smooth sided and channeled but that looks like what I'm tryin' for. FatLuckys...you're on! What kinda 6 did you come up with or are you still hunting?
I'm usin' the flat 6 & 3 speed out of Mrs Fatluckys 49 Ply. dressed up with all the speed goodies I've been collecting. It's going into a 1919 Dodge touring front half (thanks Honest!) Last I heard Sideburns had located me a frame, but I'm thinking about doing my own with 3x2.
No shame in the 3x2...that's what I'll be messin' with. At least there'll be 2 of us down here with 6's!
Looking good Dan, I'm thinking you and me outta be ready for the drags next year! What color shiney paint you wanna paint it????
I need to see something, before I start getting jazzed. However, I have $25 that says Barnett will be fat lucky at the 2004 drags. That 6 banger is stronger than a mother lifting a car off her newborn. I just hope the brakes on this hot rod are better that the trik-o-doom...or maybe you don't need a floor board...just thick soled shoes.
18 or 29 gauge will be fine.The problem comes in creating the compound curve that makes up the side.If you just use a flat sheet it looks wrong.You might be able to find a later model door skin or roof that could be caniblized.Unless you know someone with an English wheel.
LeSabre...I'll be stoked just to actually get it built! Red oxide is the plan for now. Hellfish...I know...I'm a doofus. I'm just making do with what's readily available. That and the facct that it will irritate alot of people around here that just can't get past the "no s.b.c, no fun" way of thinking. Anti...you're killin' me. Unkl Ian..Actually I do know someone with an English wheel...getting him to use it is another story.
Hey, Dan, I'm planning on using a Chevy 250 inline and a 4 or 5 speed in my RPU; partly 'cause I like the way inlines look in an open car, but also 'cause I've got one sittin' in the garage. Later on, I might replace it with a hopped-up 261".
That model is freakishly similar to your set up. Accessing the english wheel is the easy part. I guess I might as well learn to use the thing. Not like I can build any more cars. Besides, if I get really good I'll get my own television show .....and chicks in the mall will wear my shirts ....and I could have Barnett paint devil chicks on my doors ....and I could piss off senators ....naaaaah! I'll just help out on yours Crease Barons So Tex Gulf Coast Death Rods?
Barnett, I would reallly dig the hookup on those doors!!!! Thanks! Is it to much to ask for hinges as well? I am using 19G AK steel for the sheetmetal on the touring. Henry used 19G as well. The panel you need to make will be easy on the Engrish wheel. Use one of the low crown dies and you will have it in a few minutes. I would cut a cardboard profile template to work off of. That way both sides end up the same. You have a cool idea there, I envision it with a track nose.
Thanks for the help guys. Tman...I'll see what I can do about getting you those doors as quickly as possible.
[ QUOTE ] Hellfish...I know...I'm a doofus. I'm just making do with what's readily available. That and the facct that it will irritate alot of people around here that just can't get past the "no s.b.c, no fun" way of thinking. Anti...you're killin' me. [/ QUOTE ] inlines are great!
crimmy..is that farmer pissed about you stealing his feed trough dan?..hahaha just yankin yer chain..if you need anything just hollar...i'll go ahead and send you two more cylinders...so you can have a "real" engine..
$4$...you are OUTTA CONTROL!! "feed trough"... That was too funny...I got nuthin' to throw back at you since I'm too busy laughing my @ss off!
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