32 wishbone weld

i got a 32 wishbone(split) and the guy left one side alone and cleaned up the other and ground down the welds,is this safe or should i have someone reweld the long seam and the area were perch bolt goes thru

 

I would be more afraid of that China box tube it is sitting on then it coming apart

 

I second that!

 

I've welded lots of stuff in the last 50+ years, but I couldn't say whether that was a safely V'ed out and welded joint or just something he did a lot of grinding in an attempt to conceal what I call "chicken***** on a tin roof". It could be either!
If he either v'ed and/or gapped so that he got a good weld all the way thru the bone, it should be OK. What did it look like before he welded, after he welded but before grinding,what's his past record/reputation?
Dave

 

I've seen stock 'bones come apart /split if the original weld is ground too much, might be worth running a tig weld down them to ensure decent penetration .

 

he just blended in stock weld,do you think i should v it and then tig or just tig,what about the area up front were the weld goes around the entire bone,no***** on the metal,no steel i have bought is american

 

Looks like he might have built up the weld before he smoothed it out to get it that clean.

 

Here's another tip...Ford used a high carbon steel material, and a stainless steel TIG material is what I've used to weld the forged part with the tube in the past...or a so called "MAR" weld material...for welding or "marrying" two dissimiliar alloys...

hope this helps...I've been TIG welding for 36 years...and haven't had one come loose yet...knock on wood!

Mark...

 

The diemaker that I served my Tool and Die apprenticeship once said to me, "Duggans!...even a bird***** weld is a good weld when you have to remove it"....

 

My experience with the lengthwise weld is that it was not Ved before welding, has almost no penetration to brag about, and in fact most already have an invisible hairline crack down the length!
I've heard mention that the forged end has a strong bung that goes past the weld area.
Well...that is NOT TRUE in the case of the 42-48 "bent" style bones at least!
They have only a thin guide tube that aligns the HOLLOW forged end with the tube so that better penetration can be had in the joint without preheating at the factory. The forged end won't act as a heat sink.

For HAMBandys split wishbones we're using "bent" bone forgings mated to straight tube from a 41 or earlier. Not some secret recipe...just use of the parts we had, but it looks cool****embled.
I cleaned and Vee'd the joint, preheated, deep welded and then fill welded the Vee above the surface. I've since ground them level and now have the plate needed to add side gussets for safety.
Thats one VERY important joint...and overkill never hurt anyone.

 

That can play with your mind, not knowing what's really under there. Better safe than sorry...

 

Seen quite a few of these crack along the weld seam, and those were not even ground down. I agree with Hackerbill's comments re: marginal weld quality, and would recommend that you grind out the remaining weld and run a new bead. Doesn't really matter if it's MiG or TiG as long as it's done right.

 

thanks for the input,i think i will gring some of the weld and find a good tig welder and just reweld the entire bone like stock and leave the weld,as long as it looks decent,its on the bottom anyway