Mechanical oil pressure gauge and dumb question

I'm going to be installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my T tomorrow. I'm just sitting here test fitting it and the tube won't stay seated. I'm not missing any pieces. Will it seat tight when I put a wrench to it?

First time using mechanical gauges, but I want to try them and this set was a gift. Here's the instructions that came with it.

http://www.sunpro.com/publish/2004/08/05/pdf_english_16299.pdf

Yea, they are SunPro, but like I said, they were a gift and I'm on a budget, so they'll have to do.

 

as long as you have the ferrel on the tube properly it'll tighten down

 

you have to put a wrench to it to shrink the ferrule. When the ferrule (somewhat) shrinks it will compress over the tubing giving you a sealed connection. But really the ferrule acts like a flared fitting. Ideally when you remove the nut from male connector, the ferrule will stay on the tubing.

 

Thanks. How tight, 1/4 turn or maybe a 1/2 turn, after it seats?

 

basically after finger tight, go about 1/2 to 1 full turn on the wrench. If it still leaks, tighten it a bit more.

 

Yes it will tighten down with the ferrule in there properly.

I suggest you toss the nylon tube and replace it with copper tube. When oil gets hot it can burn a hole right through the plastic. I've seen it happen several times and it ruins carpet and puts really bad burns on your skin. I could see it atomizing a fine mist under the hood too, that could be a disaster. The copper is cheap and available at your local hardware store.



I'm sure this is the part where someone mentions that copper will work-harden and cause a similar problem.

 

Thanks for the copper suggestion. That makes good sence. I'll grab some tomorrow morning.

 

Fully agree!
I had that problem with the nylon tubing. Fortunately i was stopping for fuel, but the line busted in the cab on my leg. wasn't fun!!! not to mention the clean up

 

If you go Copper, You need to Coil the tube before it p***es thru the fire wall.

The section between the engine & firewall will need a "SPRING LIKE" Coilso as the car vibrates & the engine Torques the Copper tube has a "FLEX" area.

If you dont it will likely break off at the Engine and cause an Oil Gyser.

 

And resist the urge to attach wiring to it to make it look "neat". Nothing's more fun than an electrical fire from a wire shorting to ground (the metal tube).

 

I like #4 stainless braided line for the pressure and vacuum gauges.

No vibration problems, they're easy to install and look good.

If braided stainless is too modern for you, you can get black or blue braided plastic overlay hydraulic lines and re-usable cad plated fittings from a hydraulic supply house.

The hydraulic re-usable fittings look like Earls, but have automotive SAE 45* seats instead of AN 37* seats.

Here's a pic of a cookie tin full of hydraulic fittings and a #10 oil line.

Don't use the hydraulic line stuff for fuel lines.
Todays marvelous gasoline will eat holes in the lines overnight.