simple answer is yes. IFS has been used with every engine configuration. I can't think of a single reason you couldn't install IFS on your frame. That said, there are many ways to go about it. Some easy, some cheap. Don't expect both.
Pacer front cradles are almost a bolt in IFS swapfor AD series chevy trucks, should not cause any problems with your stove bolt.
Using a MII you can use the side mount later 6 cyl motor or use the stock style mount on the earlier motor since you don't have to cut out the original motor mount crossmember. If you use a camaro clip or s-10you would have to use the later side mount motor. jerry
devil's advocate question - Why not just run what came on it? Have custom leaf packs made to tune the ride quality and find shocks that match the spring rate. Gotta be cheaper than installing a custom IFS setup. Seems like you would be re-engineering a lot for a small gain.
I'm running a 261" inline 6 + 700R4 in my '48 Chevy AD with a Mustang II IFS kit. I like it. Let me know if you have specific questions. Good luck with your project.
I had a hopped up 235 / saginaw 4 speed from a camaro in my 1950 chev truck.. i bolted on some later front drum brakes , self energizing type. Good shocks , a couple of leaf spring leaves removed.. ran aand drove fine. just my nickel
Currently doing the same install 235/ T-5, mustangII. I will be using the front type motor mount and rear on the bell housing. No clearance issues at all. Took all kinds of measurements and everything looks good. My biggest concern was the oil pan to ground clearance. My truck is 54 AD 1/2 ton. Using a later engine, 56 vintage and the early front and bell mounts make it pretty easy.
Not to Hi jack the post but I plan on doin this setup on my 54. Are you gonna run a brake booster? If so Curious what are you gonna power it up with? Thanx Phil
I won't be running power brakes,though I have hear that there are some clearance issues with the booster and the T-5. Motor and ****** are still out of the truck, but ready to go back in. I am currently working on shortening the steering tube and shaft and cleaning the front frame up to install the MII. I should be starting a build post soon. have a few more before pic's to take. Once the motor and ****** are back in I can check for clearance issues for ya. Stovebolt sight have some very detailed articles on the change. Dennis
I have a 261, T5, stock crossmember MII, and modified steering column in my '53 Chevy truck. Everything went together fine. I did notch a little out of the middle of the crossmember just to make sure I could get the oil pan off, just in case.
I've priced it out several ways and by the time you get done with the custom leaf springs, the dropped axle and the cost of upgrading the brakes to something that will stop the truck from highway speeds in a reasonable distance the cost is pretty much the same as going with the MII kit. You still end up with a truck that steers somewhat hard and still does not ride and handle as well as I could. I put close to 100 K miles on the truck shown in my Avator with a Camaro stubb. Easy miles with power steering and a good ride. I swapped frames back to a leaf/ beam because removing the center cross member allowed the frame rails to be twisted outward by the weight of the cab. I am running a 54 frame with a 54 axle with a couple of leaves removed. It has 54 p***enger brakes that don't stop all that well in serious stops. Ok for drum but no comparison to the Chevelle disks that were on the Camaro stub. The truck rides rough, steers hard and generally wears me out in a hundred miles. It was my daily driver for most of 15 years and got driven around 20 K a year with the I beam. I'll be installing some sort of independent front end in the next couple of months because I want to drive the truck and not just sit and look at it.
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