For heavy runs, let them dry thoroghly for about a day or force dry and then you can use a razor blade but not in a slicing motion but hold the blade loosly in your thumb and forefinger and at a 90 degree angle to the run and go back and forth over the run. The blade will only come in contact with the high areas of the run. When you start hitting the flat areas next to the runs stop and hit the area with a small block and 1500 grit then buff. Kind of hard to explain and it takes some practice so go slow. I hope this helps a little.
One of the guys at my buddy's body shop used to use a 1 inch section of a metal file with 1/8 inch strips of masking tape on it to "cut" runs after they dried. it was a pretty trick looking homemade piece. Hope that helps.
If it's single stage metallic DO NOT TOUCH IT! If it's clear coat, nib away. If it's a solid single stage color nib carefully... A picture would help. -ns
Not sure if you can get Run Razor's in the U.S. but they are very useful. http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail....+&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&CatID=24&SubCatID=34
Eastwood has them http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=run&submit.x=32&submit.y=12&submit=Search
Wrap a thin layer of masking tape around the ends of a straight razor blade leaving the blade in the middle open. The taped ends work as a guide to keep from going too deep in the paint.
Runs? who gets runs? Seriously though just like Kustomz said take a straight razor blade and wrap the edges with masking tape to prevent the edge of the blade from digging in two or three layers is plenty and rub it over the run, the masking tape will wear away as you rub it over the run so it will automatically bring the blade down closer to the surface until it is flat and then just use a hard block and sandpaper to finish it up. Files should only be used by somebody who REALLY knows what they are doing as they can cause deep gouges in the paint if your not careful.
Seen something years ago. It was a block about 1" square and had a file surface on 1 side. Fellow told me it was a paint file. He showed me how little paint it actually took off in 1 p***. Worked really well. Don't know if it still avaliable or not. Been 20 years ago.
They look more like printers blocks. J C Witney has them in co**** or fine cut. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000223624/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000223624
They're called "nib files" and some autobody tool places sell them. I have two of them, a co**** and a fine. I think one is meant for runs and one is meant for getting little tiny dust nibs. They work well sometimes, but sometimes they take off a little more than you wanted to. The finer one is good for little dust nibs. I never had much luck with the co**** one. To me it's safer to stick to the razor blade and very fine sandpaper on a stiff block. Go just a little at a time and keep checking your progress. It's better to take a long time leveling it out than to rush it and cut too deep and go "DOH!". I'm no expert though.
It is solid color concept. the above info is very useful! Its what I was asking for. Thanks guys. Ago
take a paint stick and wrap half sheet of wet 600 grit and carefully wet-sand then to 800 or 1000 and buff or if its just one run here and there use the blade method, then 1000 and buff
Haha, I love Overspray's quote. I always think it to myself when I lay down clear. Run files work best, but the homemade stuff works as well.
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