i have a 63' 4dr hardtop impala that has started to rust and peel (clear coat) at an accelerated speed over the last couple of months. Everyday I look at the car and get stressed cuz i don't want it to get worse. but don't have the money or skills at this point to do the body work (replace the sections with metal). My question is, is it okay, or a good idea rather, to use body filler on the bad parts in order to temporarily hault the rusting and then later replace it with metal? Also, if I sand down the peeling clear coat and then just primer it, what are the pros and cons. I would really really appreciate all your opinions and advice on this! Thank You!!!!
Body Filler will make it worse. If its not too bad grind it down to bare metal and spray an epoxy primer on it. How bad and where is the rust
I don't understand the situation. Is the metal rotted away and you want to just fill the rot spots with filler? I don't understand the peeling clear coat and wanting to use filler to fix it. Help us.
Rust is CANCER.. It does not sleep, it does not go away. Even the best quality products only slow it down a little. The rust MUST be removed. Bondo on rust is especially bad because the bondo can absorb water, which makes the metal under it rust even faster. At a bare minimum, grind the rust down to fresh metal, CUT OUT the worst spots, sand-blast what you cant reach, bring it back up with a GOOD epoxy primer [rustolium with fish oil is my favorite], and fibergl*** patch it.... Get ALL of the rust OUT, and be generous with the epoxy when you gl*** it over. If the rust problem exceeds your abilities or budget, seriously consider selling it to someone who can give it what it needs. I hate seeing cars go down the ****per. In all honesty, I should have pulled out the popcorn on such a stupid question, but incase you were serious and just didn't know ant better, I cut you some slack. Good luck.
rattle can primer is porous, water foes right through it to the metal and rusts like you put a big sponge on bare metal. "Bondo" is polyester resin with various kinds of powdered material, usually clay, as in dirt, in it for a filler. it too soaks up water like a sponge, and has NO structural integrity. But. If I just wanted to keep the rain and exhaust out of the trunk and floors for one more rainy season, and really was giong to fix it right, soon, I must pleay guilty to using the wire screen and fibergl*** cloth behind bondo patch in the past, but put some shiny finish paint on it to block out the water... (Then primer again over that sealed surface if you want that primer look). Just don't put it on EBay with a "fresh restoration" sales pitch...
In all honesty, I should have pulled out the popcorn on such a stupid question, but incase you were serious and just didn't know ant better, I cut you some slack. the only stupid questions are the ones not asked! its apparent he wants to learn so put your popcorn back on the shelf and have a beer!
It's cool. Not trying to bust anyones chops. I figured out it was a newbie type question, so I gave some [hopefully] helpfull advice. Hey man, it's derby day here in Louisville! I'v already had my share of brewskies. Rumor has it that Ryan and Kevin both follow my posts, and if I pull the popcorn, they lock the thread. Dont know if it's true, but it's what I heard. Someone in Wyoming help the new guy out. Get that heavy-chevy fixed up the right way!
i have no reason to celebrate! no races, no nothin here today! but imma drink anyway! but hell, thats what im good at, so why stop now right????
So what you are asking is it ok to hack it out because your poor. Hell, i'm poor and i feel you drive it the way it is til you can fix it right.
thanks for the feedback!!! i've been ripping my hair out over this 'issue' and i keep going back and forth on what i'm a gonna do. by the way, i'm a girl, just for future reference. after reading all the posts and mulling it over for the last week, here's what i've decided....drive it the way it is, put money aside every payday and slowly start to get it fixed piece by piece. sure, i would love to be able to fix it myself and do all the work, but lets face it, i can't. i love my car even if the paint looks ridiculously bad and its starting to rust, i'll still drive it everyday and i'm committed to putting the money in necessary to make sure it lasts a lifetime, it just won't be 'fixed' today.
Glad to see that you were asking for advice, that you were going to use. Best of luck with you car and repairs. One helpful hint, if you are going to have the car repaired by someone else (as it sounds from your post), see if you can get a rough "guestimate" as to an amount for you to save. It has always helped me to have an idea for a budget when money is tight.
Ok, Im gonna tell you this. You are lying to yourself. (unless you are physically unable to work on your car i.e. -amputee, broken back, etc. ) If so, disregard this, as you are right. Ive never done any of this before, and I grinded out metal and bondo and rust, repaired some panels, layed some filler and am in the process of prime and paint. It just takes some time. So from this noob to you, never say you cant, because if you SAY you cant... Well youre probably right. now get to work!
You you guys are the best and I usually don't say things like that! and yes, all limbs are attached and in working order, so thanx for the vote of confidencece, its nice to hear. I forgot to post pics of the areas i was concerned with OOPS!! so even tho its a bit after the fact, here they are!! oh yeah, what's people's take on replacing entire body panels, like the panels for sale in magazines?
Whoa! those pictures are from the future. by looking at the rust you have I don't think you have any choice but to repair it properly, if you do the bondo method then by the looks of what kind of rust you have it will just rot back out in no time.
grind, blast, cut that rust away. kill it. at minimum seal up the remaining steel with POR 15. that is better than letting it continue to consume your car. -scott noteboom
Whats going on... 1. Gotta get that s**** off. 2. pre fabs are nice if you have the knowlegde to do it yourself or know the right people. 3. If you want to learn it take some weld cl***es at WCC, get some lit on metal working and start tinkering. But know that body work, and lines just metal work it self takes practice, lots and lots of practice"trial and error" dont get intemidated, remember a screw up is a lesson learned. 4. I know there is plenty of fab shops out there cause of the oil wells, ask some people there if they can help ya out. Most of all see if there is a HAMB'er around to point you in the right direction.
somedays I just wanna take the grinder to it even if I can't replace the metal right away, I just wanna cut it off you never know, I may just loose it and cut that sh!t off and then drive it around with pieces gone! but then it'd look like a rat rod, no offense to those who like em, but i don't. no bondo, i'm so glad I asked for advice b4 taking that route THANK YOU! I've always wanted to go to wyotech for auto restoration but my husband and I are arguing over who gets to do it first! For now anyways, i'm going to put all efforts into having it fixed by a professional, hopefully not locally tho. When i get a garage with a house, then I can indulge my need to get my hands dirty in auto restoration
I took a year of votec autobody, believe me, you can fix that. If you can borrow a mig welder, practice on an old hood, fender, whatever, and get some US made patch panels. The filler is a last step for low spots, and NEVER to fill holes. Some of those little clamps from Harbour chinese freight might help.
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