4 banger Generator Question "diagrams inside"

I have a basic wiring question that im sure someone can help me with, Iv throwin a basic wiring harness together to get the coupe running. as for now it runs but just off the battery since the generator isnt wired in.

can someone check my math?
this is the wiring harness that is working right now


This is the stock A wiring diagram


this is what im assuming i can do


will this work to keep the battery charged? or is my understanding lacking?

 

Im bypassing the key for now and im lacking in a kill switch this i know.

 

Aww its such a nice day somebody please help

 

cant see your handiwork on my work computer but hope this helps...early 3 brush generaters just need a wire from the cutout to the battery to work but you should at least have an ammeter in line to tell if its charging or discharging if the cutout pionts stick closed it will kill your battery or if you run it with points stuck open(no charge) it will fry the generater

 

So this will be the deal maker right here? for anyone else who can see?

thanks jetmek.

 

should fly

 

It looks like you're on the right track. From the diagram I'm assuming you're using a +12V battery?

If not then you need to reverse your battery polarity and the coil too if it's -6V

 

nah, its all 6v,, oh man that could be the problem huh? itll run great for acouple minutes but then start sputtering. i got it all the way up the street. also the ammeter was decharging. man these stock A's are a whole new experience. so i have to ground out the positive cable and hook up the negative to the starter?

 

and the + side of he coil to the dist.

 

Exactly! It's a 6 Volt POSITIVE ground. It will look funny to you if you're used to "modern" wiring systems.

And like John said you need to reverse the polarity of the coil too. Just keep telling yourself that anything with a "+" sign is actually ground, you'll be fine.

Best of Luck!

 

Man awesome thanks guys, They dont make model-a training wheels do they?

So this could have effected timing and the way it was misfiring?

 

Timing NO . Coil is a 6V right?

 

sure its a 6v battery and a 6v coil i guess what im having trouble understanding is how it could still mantain a smooth idle at start up even with having the wires on both components wrong?

 

make sure the choke rod is turned open also it will start n idle but runs out of gas when going also make sure line is not partially plugged causing low flow If everythingn is right it will run ok reversed polarity wont charge n points will pit but it will run
hope this helps been there recently
Ken

 

Slamcouver, I have an original (not reprint) Model A owner's manual that might be very helpful in your adventure. PM me.
Bob

 

Search the Hamb using perhaps "banger books" as your search terms...a couple of the classic books will be your training wheels, not to mention wiring tutors!

 

Also, make the wire to coil long so it can be attached to a switch whenever. I think if you reverse polarity to bat and coil too, and flash generator to repolarize, the thing will still go happily...it is pos ground stock, but if coil and everything are reversed together, all should be happy. Unless you fry the ECM or oxygen sensor...

 

If your generator has one of those round "cut outs" bolted to the top of the genny, they are famous for sticking and draining the battery. You can get "solid state" cut outs from the old Ford parts houses that eliminate this problem.

If the ignition is the only draw on the battery, there is no way that the ammeter can sense that flow the way that you have it wired now because it bypasses the ammeter from the battery to the coil. It doesn't flow through the ammeter on the way to the coil.

If the cutout is not stuck, it is possible that you have the wires hooked to the wrong posts on the ammeter or going the wrong way through a loop type ammeter. If that's the case then it would show a discharge when it is actually charging.

If you look on the factory diagram, current has to flow through the ammeter from the battery before it goes to any load including the ignition. Flip the switch and current flows out of the battery through the ammeter to the coil showing a discharge. Start it up and the generator sends current the other direction through the ammeter down to the battery showing a charge. If you bypass the ammeter as you did in your diagram the ammeter can't sense the current flow and won't move the needle. That's why I'd suspect either a stuck cut out (which would show on the ammeter with the way you have it wired) or it's actually charging with the wires reversed.

Clear as mud huh?