I'm trying to bend some new lines and need to do some flares, but for some reason they keep turning out a little lopsided. The pics aren't great but hopefully it'll help explain my problem. I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Could it be that when I'm tightening the wing nuts on the flaring block, I'm not getting them both tightened the same amount? Now that I think about it the nut closest to the tubing was usually tighter than the other one, I wonder if that's it? I'm using a KD brand double flaring kit. I'm hoping this is a common mistake and someone will know offhand what the problem is
Make sure your cuts are straight, I think you have something there with the tightness. Both sides should tighten down all the way.
My guess is that it is either cut crooked or the line is not straight in the block. Are you champhering it before you flare it? J.
ewww diet pepsi but i think i dropped that wad of cash on the ground thought, seems like your tightening one side to far, try putting it in the vice and then flaring
R U using a double flare tool first of all? But, your problem "may" be from having too much tube sticking out of the fixture. The double flare tools have small dies for the 1st step, and also serve to show you how much tube to have sticking out of the fixture by matchin the disc's thickness. 2nd guess, cheap flaring tool?
You've got to force the flare to stay straight, mine if you just start tightening it'll get gaunch-eyed and to the side. So for every turn you have to make sure to keep it straight.
too much sticking out of the flareing tool, go to this link and you will see Before the tube is clamped by the jaws of the flaring bar, the 11/48-inch-thick heel of the flaring adapter (shown) is used to establish the 11/48 inch of tube that protrudes beyond the bar. This is a critical step. Too much tube will cause the flare to collapse or become ****ed off center. Insufficient protrusion yields an incomplete flare (junk http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=brake+tube+flare&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2
Make sure that you don't have any burrs on the end of the tube that you are flaring too. You need a quality tool to do it right but it has to be in good shape too. My Snap-On flair tool is about 35 years old and doesn't work as well as I would like anymore. It also takes some practice to get it right. I'd do a few practice flares before doing the ones on the car.
I've also found that a dab of oil on top of the double flaring die as well as wetting the flare metal with oil helps these things come out better. Flatman
I've been trying to figure out how to make new brake lines for my car too. I've got about half a roll of tubing cut into about 1 inch sections with a ******ed up flair of some kind. But what I have found is that you must COMPLETELY deburr the inside of the tube, I used a little tiny file and an Exacto knife. I also found that with my tool if you let the swivel piece that flares the tube center it's self on the tube it works better that trying to line it up by eye (I hope that makes sense)
I have fought this before. Drives you crazy when the other end is right and your sizing is right and then the **** is crooked. When you go to clamp it down in the holding tool let the tube be a hair lower than the gauge.A small hair>>>>.
Almost all of the replys indicate possible problems. Too much tube out of the clamp/vise is the most likely reason. Here's what i do. 1 Double flare adapters have a guage to measure depth to flare. 2 Remove all burrs on the outside with a mill file/sand paper 3 Run (by hand) the proper size drill bit inside to remove internal burrs I use a quick release drill bit 6 sided in a 1/4 inch socket. 4 Make sure the adapter bottoms out 5 Run the 45 degree flaring tool in until the double flare is complete. You can Google "double flares" to get instructions with pic's. maybe "brakeline double flare" or something like that.
Run down to the Home Depot and get a ridgid flare tool. It may not have the double flare dies with it. Use the the double flare dies you have and I bet the flares will get better real quick. Place the open end in a vice and clamp it down. Slide the flaring die in place then crank down the flaring clamp. The clamp on the side that lock the unit together is very important to be tight. A drop of oil is required.
If your not doing it already, some WD-40 on the end of the tube and the tool will make all the difference in the world.
You might swing the blocks wide open and check the tube holding portions for being 90 degrees to the flaring surface. Bought a "global" set once in a hurry to do some quick brake line repairs, after many efforts and no sucessful results finally backed up to look close and that is what I found [on the 3/16 hole only]. Got just what I paid for.............
Wow I just wanted to say thanks for all the great replies! I'm going to go work on my flares right now, I think I've had the tube a little too long for starters, and I haven't tried wd40 on them. Oh and let the swivel piece center itself too! Cool cool...I bought a KD brand made in USA flaring kit, they used it in an article in Car Craft so I figured it would be OK Anyway I'm gonna use all y'alls tips, will let you know my results, thanks!
9 times outta 10 the tube is slipping in the clamp,,,I have had that problem and now I use a little more force in tightening the fixture,, The spacing with the double flair cant stick up too much or the tubing will be lopsided. HRP
if the tube is slipping in the clamp use a screwdriver to tighten the wing nuts a little more. also make sure you tighten the die completely, otherwise you'll get lopsided flares.
I always put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the flare part of the tool. WD40 would work too but my WD40 can is always empty.
Look at the double flare thingie. I call them thumbtacks. Inspect the shape right at the disk post jucture. Compair to the other ones. I had the same problem and it drove me crazy untill I got another thumbtack. The brand is Imperial Eastman so was quality USA stuff. Still bad.
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