how much does it cost to have a cylinder sleeved? i have a 68-69 327 that is in super good shape except for one bore which is heavily rusted and want to rebuild it to go in my truck because the 305 i am about to put in it is simply not what i want in it....a 327 with 3 dueces is more like it...
Sell the 327 Large journal block to a Camaro guy, take the rewards to buy a 350 that has no major problems, or that is ready to scoo-daddle down the road.
i had been told that all of my parts would slide right into a 350 block, but wasn't sure.... so i guess thats what i will do, as soon as i get all of my parts out of the 327 block that is..that one cylinder is rusted so badly that i cant get the crank to turn so that i can remove the rods from the crank...have all of the rod caps off except for two that i cant get to the nuts because of the position of the crank.. i may end up just busting the pistons so that i can get the crank and rods out safely....
Before you scrap it see if a machine shop will set up and bore the one cylinder. .060 will clean up a big mess. We used to get around $90.00 parts and labor about 10 years ago to sleeve a cylinder. It goes quick if you have good equipment. It's best if you deck the block after you sleeve it. I hate to say it, if you get a 350 block just build a 350. I know the 327 has a reputation in the hotrod world, but the 350 will have better power every time. Plus they look the same, parts are cheaper, and compresion can be built into it cheaper. I was listening to the news on the way home from work and they were saying by the end of the year we may see $5.00 a gallon gas too so don't completlly rule out the 305 either... Jeff
yah, not sure what i am going to do with the 327 yet....i gave it to my older brother a while back but he never came and picked it up and since it was still sitting in my building, i decided to tear it down the other day...everything in the shortblock looks perfect except that one piston/bore, so i figured i would use what i have and build another 327 with my crank/rods.... the 305 will definately be kept, but will probably end up in a rod set up to get good mileage while being decently quick....rebuild the q-jet thats on it, probably put a t5 behind it with the rearend that is in the 56 right now (2.something gears) with some tall tires.... i know that a 350 would probably be the best way to go, but i *think* the 327 can be done cheaper for now, and anything i do end up buying for it (intake, carbs, heads), i can always just swap over to a 350 (probably a 383) later on....
I'd take the block to a machine shop and have the one cylinder checked and bored. You may loose out having it cleaned and crack checked if it dosn't pan out, but the odds are good if the block is still a standard bore. By cheaper I ment the overhaul kit runs an average of $100.00 cheaper.
I sometimes need a cylinder sleeved in the race motor. Costs me about $100 a hole. Don't know if that's good, bad or just right.
What is the journal size on the 327 ? Small journal crank in a large journal block will need special bearings.
it may not need sleeving, i took a scraper and scrapped te scale off the cylinder and it is actually pretty smooth now, maybe a .060 bore would clean it up to good condition...... i did demolish thet piston in an attempt to get the crank/rods out and can not get it out....i'm seriously considering a 4" holesaw as my last option...
I've used a holesaw and a sawzall as a last resort. Just don't try it on a Hemi piston...you'll burn out the drill motor!
some fun combinations with sb chevy... 307 has a 68-69 large journal 327 crank, 305 is a 350 crank in a 262 block, 302 is a 283 crank in a 327 or 350 block (depends on years for small or large journals), 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block if i remember right. loads more combinations, im sure. the whole trick is getting the right motor for the application. 305 is an efficient torque motor and absolutely great for a daily driver. 350 is nice for power, but loses out on the top end. 327 is a screamer with the same bore as 350, but with shorter stroke. then there is the infamous hot 302. probably best for lighter applications, that thing is insane once its wound up. im truly curious what a 262 crank would do in a 350 block, if anyones got the parts. a 327 for a truck seems to fit about right for someone who wants more top end, a 350 id say would be better in the low and midrange rpm wise. with gas the way its going, a well carbed 305 with the right cam would make a great cruiser and look just like any other sb. worst comes to worst, just tell people its a factory stroker motor!
Doug get (or make) a long punch so you can hit the piston on the pin boss. Works good. Just watch the crank. If you can't turn it over to get the pistons out you may have to cut a rod or two with a torch. Also it helps to stick peices of 3/8 fuel line over the rod bolts so they don't hit the crank, or remove the bolts for more clearance... Jeff
262? Under 3" I know that. It's an odd number I don't remember. It's a waste of cast iron far as I'm concerned.
once the crank is out, i can pound the pistons out and remove the rods without having to cut them, but before i can do that, i have to get this one pesky piston to come out.... about this muriatic acid, where can i get it? will it damage anything else in the engine?
Don't bet on it. I've pounded holes in the tops of pistons trying to get 'em out. Not saying yours won't come out, just that I've seen 'em all but welded to the cyl walls... Hardware stores. It will take the rust off steel, but when rinsed, will flash rust quickly. Anything you don't want to flash rust (ie - any machined surfaces) coat with grease before using. I've also soaked water jackets with muriatic acid to clean 'em out...
i have knocked a few of the pistons out the top after removing the caps on the rods, so i'm almost postive that all but this one piston will come ou with just a little beating with the rubber mallett.... how much is the acid? thinking about trying the 4" holesaw first....
I'm telling you you need a bigger hammer. Like a short handle sledge. Then pound on the pin bosses. It works great. Get out what you can and tap the rod bolts out of the rods if you can. This gives you more clearance for the rod to go by the block. Sometimes you can even take the main caps off the block and lift the crank up enough to sneek a couple rods by, or even remove the crank with the rods in the block.
The Jalopy Journal
