I finally found the VIN for my '54 F100. It was on the radiator brace. The problem is, the title has a different number than the frame. I can see how they would've gotten confused because the numbers were covered with quite a bit of dirt and grease and they were hard to read clearly. After I cleaned it all off it's as clear as crystal. My question is how many hoops am I going to have to jump through to correct the title?
Where's the tag on the inside of the glovebox door? You can have a tag made that carries the same number as the title. The title is what you normally present at the BMV to obtain a registration and plate-nobody there is going to look at a radiator brace for a number.[ quote=sociallydistorted;2843040]I finally found the VIN for my '54 F100. It was on the radiator brace. The problem is, the title has a different number than the frame. I can see how they would've gotten confused because the numbers were covered with quite a bit of dirt and grease and they were hard to read clearly. After I cleaned it all off it's as clear as crystal. My question is how many hoops am I going to have to jump through to correct the title?[/quote]
Where's the tag on the inside of the glovebox door? You can have a tag made that carries the same number as the title. The title is what you normally present at the BMV to obtain a registration and plate-nobody there is going to look at a radiator brace for a number.[ quote=sociallydistorted;2843040]I finally found the VIN for my '54 F100. It was on the radiator brace. The problem is, the title has a different number than the frame. I can see how they would've gotten confused because the numbers were covered with quite a bit of dirt and grease and they were hard to read clearly. After I cleaned it all off it's as clear as crystal. My question is how many hoops am I going to have to jump through to correct the title?[/quote]
I don't know if it's a replacement or not but the VIN on the title isn't a valid number and the one on the brace is valid. It looks like it was stamped in the factory. I searched the frame high and low and this is the only place that had the VIN.
There isn't a tag anywhere on the truck. It was removed long ago. Thats why I was searching all over the frame. Why would I want to have a title with a bogus number? I'd rather have the actual VIN on my paperwork.
You say the number on the title isnt valid. What have you checked the number against to validate it is not valid? Let me know I can probably help
This was posted a few weeks ago, I remember the thread. The number on the title is close, but off in a few places. Does your state inspect the vehicle to verify the serial number? Just slap a tag on it that's good enough to work and live with it, if you try to change the serial number to be correct you may end up with something you can never register, or have to go some kind of bonded title route with. As long as you know it's legitimate, what difference does it make if the number is a correct 1954 Ford serial, or if it matches up to a Van Halen album title (0U812)?
This was intended to be used as a reason why the radiator supp't doesn't match the title. You have a title that is registered with an incorrect VIN. Join the club. I'm with the others. If you try to change it and correct it, you might wind up with a salvaged vehicle or something else that you can't register without some crazy inspections.
I think what he's saying is he HAS to correct it. I went thru that 10 years ago in a state that had recently gone to computers in the DMV. The front half of the VIN isn't serial number, it's unique to the manufacturer and bodystyle, etc. So if the front half of the VIN is jacked up, computer won't accept it. In my case the original VIN paperwork had 5s switched with S's, 8's with H's that kind of thing, but nobody caught it without a computer to throw the red flag. DMV goes computer and catches the error, and when corrected I instantly became the original owner of my 15 year old cars.
Tacson, I haven't checked it against the DMV, but the one on the title doesn't have letters where they're supposed to be. It has 0's instead of D's, ect. As for rustynewyorkers comment, Thats hilarious. Van Halen!! Hahahaha! Seriously, it doesn't matter to me what the title says but when I sell the truck the next buyer might know that the number is jacked up and it might matter to them. And Shifty is correctomundo! The letters and numbers are all jacked up so I'm just trying to fix the problem before it becomes someone elses issue.
The VIN on my '55 F-100 was on the top of the frame rail, just in front of the front body mount, under about a pound of grime. (I don't remember which side). We found it when installing a Nova subframe, so we made sure not to cut that part of the frame off. Take a look there before you go thru the DMV girations.
I was a Md state inspector for 16 years. The very first step is to record the vin #. I would not use a vin number stamped in a removable brace. I'm not up on F100s but the real number is on the frame somewhere. There are a lot of historic Md. cars with titles that don't match the frame number because historic cars are not required to go through inspection where the vin number must be taken from the vehicle by the inspector. It's possible that the truck was once a field find and they purchased a "historical document" and applied for and received a title with that number. They could have stamped the new number into an easily removable piece just to satisfy a policeman on a routine stop. Make sure you know what you have before you involve the authorities. I'm not saying to do anything illegal but you need to know how to get it legal before they ground you. I have run across a vin number that was obviously a typo on a late model. You can get it corrected BUT before you do make sure you have the real vin number from the frame and not from a brace. If it's a typo you may need to take a pencil tracing from the frame or possibly have it witnessed by a state trooper. so that a reasonable person can see what happened. If it's a typo, yours is not the first and I'm sure they have a way to correct it. One thing that I learned is that in most cases the Md. official that you are dealing with isn't out to "get you". They are just clerks that need to cover their asses. Make it easy for them to see that it is an honest mistake and that you are not trying to trick them. They are looking for fraud and stolen vehicles not just trying to make your life miserable. But if you try to pull the wool over their eyes they can make life miserable. Good luck.
Glovebox plate...if this truck is supposed to have one like earlier F-1's and such, there's another issue for you. Why would someone have taken the plate? Surely to register another truck that had no title...anothe reason to find number on FRAME to verify that whatever number that is belongs to YOUR truck.
I have read from a few people that they have found their VIN on an early F1 on the cross member instead of the frame rail. There has been the suggestion that some plants stamped it there. Here is one -- you can do a search over there for more: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/660326-finally-found-my-vin.html
Thanks MN. Thats exactly where mine is as well. I just spoke to the DMV and the lady said that since the VIN plate has been removed the only way that they will title the vehicle in my name is to re-issue a new number on a new plate. And there's no fee for that but they sure drain your wallet with other shit. $50 for a new title, $38 minimum for taxes, $51 for regular plate OR $100 for Historic plates for 2 years, etc. Holy shit! These bastards charge for everything. I'm surprised they didn't make me pay just to call them.
Thats about what we pay. $50 for a title (but only on 73-up), 8% or so taxes, and a 2-year reg fee based on weight, special plates extra.
They charge money for that? Imagine!!! I must be totally missing the big picture here because I would have just ran a weld bead over the number you found on the brace and stamped the number from the title into the frame rail. As I see it you've accomplished nothing except to grease a few greedy palms...and I doubt its over yet. I'm pretty sure you can buy stampable VIN plates from restoration sources...
All I was asking is what I need to do to have the title reflect the ACTUAL vin number that is clearly stamped on the frame. And I haven't "greased any palms" yet. The palms that you speak of are those of the state of Maryland and there's nothing I can do about their fees, I was just pointing out that the fees are outrageous. I just want the title to have the original vin. buying vin plates and stamping bogus numbers isn't beyond my comprehention.
I don't know the current laws in Md. for an assigned vin# but be sure to ask. I know that back in the 60s a friend got an assigned vin# and it was listed on the new title as the year it was issued.... a 1965 Model A Ford coupe!!! At one time there were issues requiring that the car meet the safety standards for the year the assigned vin was issued. Seat belts turn signals and smog standards were a problem. That may have changed. Ask lots of questions. I'd bet that they will want it inspected before you can get tags even after you get your new vin# and vin# tag. I've gotten an assigned vin# for a home made trailer. Once the vin plate was attached it still needed to be inspected just like any other trailer. That is when the shit will hit the fan because then you are dealing with an independent mechanic that has to keep meticulous records to cover his ass from his over seeing Sate Trooper that can yank his license. The standards for that inspection is based on the year on the title. Historic vehicles do not need to be inspected to get tags. These problems are the reason that historical documents became all the rage. No body wanted an assigned vin # If you have a stamped number in the frame that matches your title then you should be able to get it approved. Don't tell them a plate is missing. Show them the stamped number in the frame that matches your title. If there is a typo then that should be able to get that corrected also. That is the ideal solution. Ask a lot of questions before you plunk down any cash.
I know your trying to do the right thing. I'm on your side actually!!! But I've seen innocent stuff like this snowball into a complete nightmare for the guy trying to do whats right. I'm just fearful for ya...thats all. Sometimes its better to just let things slide as they are.... Too late now though! Hope it turns out painless other than the cost.
Been there, done that. In my case my serial number on my title was the serial number from the original 6 cyl engine (long gone). The body serial number was on the B pillar passenger side (34 Plymouth) under many coats of paint. Since numbers didn't match on title (Ohio title and Lousianna title), I removed the VIN plate and had it inspected and a new Title and VIN Plate ws eventually issued by the State DMV (PA). Initially they wanted me to have Ohio replace the title but Ohio said no, because car was sold). Took PA 6 weeks of review to give me new title. And yes, after I got the new title and VIN plate, I had to have another inspection done. Every state is a little different. I have heard that Maryland is easier than PA (especially now that PA has the new Enhanced Vehicle Inspection law in effect for reconstructed/modified vehicles). If all you have to do is provide the correct VIN and money, then do it. I would have sent in twice the $$ to get mine done that way. After 6 weeks for me, I was beginning to wonder if I would ever get to drive it legally. In this case money can buy you happiness, if happiness is getting your truck on the street. Oh, and BTW, if you decide to go the stamping of numbers route, make sure you have the right size number punches, just in case they want to inspect your vehicle. Mine were 3/8". Don't know what size they used in the 50's, Also punching steel ain't easy especially, if you are trying to get nice straight well indented numbers and letters. Some inspectors can be a real hard nose pain in the ass about detail. Good luck!
Here's where all of the early F-100 numbers I have found are located. And the VIN starts and ends with a star. Larry T
I appreciate all the help fellas. And Hacker, I hear what you're saying. I might just take your advise and title it with the number on the title and let it go. Seems like the easiest route at this point. They didn't inspect my '47 Ford so I doubt they'll inspect the '54. And thanks for the pictures Larry. That helps a lot.
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