I think I have solved or know how to solve most issues except the steering interference. I am trying to use most of the original parts of the truck. Thanks in advance... Willie
OK, one more time...I though this would be an easy question. I am using parts I took off a F-1 with a nailhead (****** adapter and motor mounts)...this was 25 years ago and I don't remember if I even looked at the steering box. I looks like the box will have to be moved up and out to clear even the mini-starter I bought. Now to find a good welder. If the steering box is moved will the drag link need to change: longer/shorter? Willie
My 264 came out of a '49 F-2. It had homemade angle iron mount brackets, using the stock flathead V8 mount cushions, and a later ('57-'58) LH exhaust manifold that exited toward the front for steering gear clearance.
I drove my 49 F-1 with a 322 nailhead for a number of years (I drove it cross country in 1978 flat towing a 31 Vicky with that configuration). I bought it that way in 1977. To clear the stock steering box there was a hole cut in the frame rail and a piece of channel welded to the outside of the frame rail to move the box further away from the engine. Other than that relocation everything in the steering and suspension was stock. The 322 was mated to the stock flatmotor transmission with an era adapter. The 322 was too much for the light duty flatmotor transmission which I replaced with a heavy duty 3 speed 49 transmission-end of problem.
Seems to me someone runs a nailhead roadster at Bonneville and the push truck is an F1 with a nailhead in it. Someone here must know them and could maybe find out?
49willard, thanks for the reply. I am mating the nailhead to the ford 4 speed granny gear ******, so although it will never win any drags, I will not break it anyway. Moving the steering box out should solve the problem and since right now the brake arm hits the back of the engine at the starter boss, I should have room to bend it to clear.
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