Register now to get rid of these ads!

Need paint and body advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mid-century-cruiser, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. mid-century-cruiser
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 73

    mid-century-cruiser
    Member
    from combine,TX

    I'm hoping some of you paint and body guys out there can give me a little advice. I've taken the body of my car to bare metal and sprayed it with DP90 epoxy primer. What kind of primer should I use after the body work is done? Don't think it should be the epoxy because it's not sandable. Maybe I'm wrong. Thanks for any advice. Ken
     
  2. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    DP90 is sandable. After the bodywork is done, the best route is to reprime with DP90 again to cover the filler work, block sand that, then use a surfacer like PPG K36. Surfacers aren't meant to be applied directly over filler work. Then once you're ready for color, wetsand the K36 with 400-600 and base.
     
  3. 38plymouth
    Joined: Apr 11, 2008
    Posts: 419

    38plymouth
    Member

    Generally a 2k (2 part) hi-build is used. Fills low spots and sanding scratches quite well. Blocks out good but wear proper respiration equipment even when sanding as it's pretty potent stuff. You will want to rough up the epoxy with some #180 or something first though.
     
  4. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Ken,

    Unlike in the past, there are lots of good choices today, when it comes to primer choices. What are you planning for a top coat
    finish? A primer surfacer will probably be necessary after any filler
    work is completed. Most of the bigger names in the paint business
    offer cheaper primers in their products lines, but you usually get
    what you pay for. Be sure to pick a primer that's at least as good
    as the top coat you select. If the primer or sealer fails, guess what
    happens to your paint job?

    Swankey Devils C.C.

    "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork''
     
  5. mid-century-cruiser
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 73

    mid-century-cruiser
    Member
    from combine,TX

    Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking of something along the lines of the hot rod flats or something similar for the topcoat.
     
  6. 33mopower
    Joined: May 18, 2008
    Posts: 243

    33mopower
    Member

    All good advice but I like to minimize the k36 primer surfacer coats by using a polyester primer between body/mud work and a final primer surfacer coat. The polyesters a lot cheaper and fills in sanding scratches etc. faster. So finish the mud in 150 grit. 3 coats of polyester and block with 150. Seal with dp and 3 coats of k36. Sand the k36 with 600 wet and your ready to go. There are thousands of ways to do it but this is how I do it.
     
  7. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    there are lots of way to go about this and most have said the way to go. if you are looking for a flat finish on the cheap. do your body work over the dp finish it with 120-180 reprime with dp then wet sand with 400 and apply top coat of hot rod flatz or what ever cheap flat finish you want.


    if you plan on a real finish some day. take the time do your body work over the dp finishing it in progression up to 320 dry reprime block with 220 wet, dry car re guide coat block with 320 then again with 400 seal and paint.
     
  8. mid-century-cruiser
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 73

    mid-century-cruiser
    Member
    from combine,TX

    Thanks again guys. I really appreciate the info. Ken
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.