I'm hoping someone has some input on this. I recently bought a really nice unrestored '47 Diamond T one ton pickup I'll be building as tow vehicle for our '46 Spartan Manor travel trailer. We currently tow with our '48 Pontiac convert, or the '51 Pontiac wagon, but the trailer is really too big to comfortably tow with either car. I have a '76 GMC one ton dually cab and ch***is truck with only 18K on the clock, and while I'd like a little better milage than the 454/turbo400 will deliver, the buy in price, since I already have the truck, will buy alot of fuel compared to a new drivetrain. I like the 454 too, and I know it's good to go. The 454 will (barely) fit by moving a slightly narrower radiator ahead into the grill shell, and by stealing an inch or so from the (very tiny already) cab. I can use the narrow dually rear with no issues, as I'll be fabricating the bed anyway. The issue as I see it is the front suspension. I'd like to use the GMC's front crossmember intact, as it'll fit perfectly between the Diamond T's framerails, steering box and all. The track however is WAY to wide, and would put the tires about 2" outside the fenderline, I can't, and won't build it this way. I am hesitant to lose the Diamond T's really pretty spoked brake drums and rims, but polished aluminum 8 lugs would look fine, and appropriate for the trucks use a trailer hauler. I know guys use narrowed upper and lowr control arms on Chevelle/Monte/Cutl*** frame stubs to slam a car (to pull the wheels/tires under the fenders), but could I do the same with the truck componants? I'd like to keep the suspension, brakes, wheels, from the one ton. It looks like there's plenty of clearance between the spindle/spring/sway bar to make this work. I know I can handle the control arm narrowing job, that's not the issue, I just am concerned about resulting suspension geometry changes, the Akerman, and handling characteristics if I go ahead with this. Any advice out there from someone with narrowed control arms on another suspension, or guys with more supension geometry knowledge than myself? Thanks, Brian
I have a friend who did something similar but.................. he widened the body 4" so his old Dodge truck would fit a modern ch***is. Sounds like a huge deal but when you think about it, its no more work that a chop.
Well that's something I had't thought of...the cab is REALLY tiny, no bigger than a Model A pickup, so it's worth a thought I guess.
I believe the dually guys who do body drops with those 20 inch semi conversion wheels, use shorter controll arms, theres a pic floating around, of a black dually with 20inch or 22 inch semi wheels, body dropped towing a trailer with weight down a highway fully dropped! i think you would be ok shortning the control arms..but im no professional.
Duelly hubs are wider then reg. 8lug 3/4 ton. If you change to reg it might work but you would still have to space the wheels out some. I may well be talking through my hat but just a thought.
No, you are not. you can use C30 single tire Rotors, and the dually wheels will bolt to them, only moved in about 4" per side. Check for tie rod clearance, but they will usually clear. The scrub radius is off, but not by as much as you might think, the stock scrub radius is not right either. http://www.arrowcraft.com/index.php Has billet steel spacers if you need them
Great info, on the hub swap, thanks. I've contacted the vendor for the dually adaptors for a little more tech help, and am excited to have this information. It'll help make the truck more enjoyable, driveable and fun to build. Brian
If that cab of the truck is really that small, how far are you going to be towing with it? Maybe making the cab bigger as part of the buildup is a good idea?
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